Raceland Coilover Review for the xA
#61
XAXAXa, the car is loking hot, those 200 lbs of bass are really making a difference in the rear, i would be worried about the rears setteling a bit more since you have the extra weight.
all in all I agree with your comments, especially about the tool to put the new nut on the top hat, how did you end up doing it, i was a little confused about what you wrote. The way I did it was with an impact wrench even tho it said not to, i used low pressure and just moved the nut down little by little
Itscurtsk, im sure that you would be able to use any shock in the rear you wanted provided its longer than the raceland one, if it is a little bit longer then your travel should be just fine, a shock is shock
all in all I agree with your comments, especially about the tool to put the new nut on the top hat, how did you end up doing it, i was a little confused about what you wrote. The way I did it was with an impact wrench even tho it said not to, i used low pressure and just moved the nut down little by little
Itscurtsk, im sure that you would be able to use any shock in the rear you wanted provided its longer than the raceland one, if it is a little bit longer then your travel should be just fine, a shock is shock
#63
mine will be arriving wednesday, hopefully before the sun goes down. I'm going to install the rears without perches. Want to see if it will give me a drop I can be satisfy with and ride on it for a few days. If I like it, then I'll swap the rear shocks and install the fronts. If not, going to return unless someone wants to buy it off me. Will post pictures.
Last edited by itscurtsk; 07-24-2012 at 01:08 AM.
#64
looks good. hey you had tokico blues before racelands right? is there a difference between the rear shocks? is it okay to use tokico rear shocks with their rear coils instead of raceland shocks?
my curiosity beat me and i ordered a set to see how low these can go, gonna start putting it on this friday if it comes before that day.
my curiosity beat me and i ordered a set to see how low these can go, gonna start putting it on this friday if it comes before that day.
#65
Nothing has really settled yet that I notice... I can't see the rear settling at all lower... It's pretty maxed out. The fronts only have 1/4" til they sit on bump stops... Which gets me wondering how Austin got his front so low
mine will be arriving wednesday, hopefully before the sun goes down. I'm going to install the rears without perches. Want to see if it will give me a drop I can be satisfy with and ride on it for a few days. If I like it, then I'll swap the rear shocks and install the fronts. If not, going to return unless someone wants to buy it off me. Will post pictures.
#67
i jacked up one side of the fronts and i don't see nor feel any bumpstop on what i have now. it should be there right? dam the mechanic probably forgot to put them back on when he installed my eibachs =x
anyways if the rears doesn't give me the drop i need, i'm just going to return them. not sure how much extra drop you got with the extra weight in the back. i will remove 1 collar and cut some bump stop if i decide to keep it.
anyways if the rears doesn't give me the drop i need, i'm just going to return them. not sure how much extra drop you got with the extra weight in the back. i will remove 1 collar and cut some bump stop if i decide to keep it.
#69
i jacked up one side of the fronts and i don't see nor feel any bumpstop on what i have now. it should be there right? dam the mechanic probably forgot to put them back on when he installed my eibachs =x
anyways if the rears doesn't give me the drop i need, i'm just going to return them. not sure how much extra drop you got with the extra weight in the back. i will remove 1 collar and cut some bump stop if i decide to keep it.
anyways if the rears doesn't give me the drop i need, i'm just going to return them. not sure how much extra drop you got with the extra weight in the back. i will remove 1 collar and cut some bump stop if i decide to keep it.
Mechanics? you should deff install the racelands yourself, it will save you alot of money and it will be done they way you want it. Plus the coils are pretty easy.
and as far as the bump stops go, take the wheel off you if they are there you will be able to see them, its hard not to. but it really does not matter that much if they are not there since new ones come with the reacelands.
#70
I wanted to add to my origional review on page one.
I have noticed a small problem with my rear springs as they have settled. The drivers side is about 1/2 inch lower than the passenger side which does not make sence since i have lowered them both fully. I was thinking that the spriong rates did not match eachother. Im not sure if the passenger side is too stiff or if the drivers side is too soft. I called Raceland and explained everything to them, and they asked for pictures to make sure everything has been installed correctly. So i sent the pictures and about 4 days later I got an email back from a rep whos name is Davin. he told me that they could send a new spring when ever was convient for me. Since I am moving and do not have a mailing adress I asked him if I could hold off for about 1 month untill I get back to college, I also asked him if they could send two new springs because I want them to both settle togeather and i was not sure what spring was causing problems.
I wanted to share what he sent me:
That's fine. We can arrange that once you have an address squared away. I'll
be sure to detail that in the notes for your order. We can arrange for a
swap at that time and we'll be sure to test each spring prior to leaving to
ensure they're both the same rate. Let me know, thanks!
-end
So i was very pleased to hear that they were truely backing their product and were willing to work with me to fix the problem. Also in an eariler email I told him that I know most companies want the "defective" product back, then they need to test it and then they determine what to do or if the product is even defective or not. I HATE this method, it takes too long! and most of the time they wont cover shipping unless something is found to be wrong.
I told him this and that since I am in college that I need my car. He said that the policy that i just stated is normally how it is done, but he worked with me and said that since I cannot have my car sitting up on jack stands that they could send me the two new springs and they would just have my credit card on file. And I know that through a phone call with another man, they cover shipping ( or atlease they will work something out with me so that we can all be happy).
I am very impressed and pleased with how well Raceland has responded to my problem and especially how much they are willing to work with me to ensure that the problem is solved.
My hat is off to you Raceland!
I have noticed a small problem with my rear springs as they have settled. The drivers side is about 1/2 inch lower than the passenger side which does not make sence since i have lowered them both fully. I was thinking that the spriong rates did not match eachother. Im not sure if the passenger side is too stiff or if the drivers side is too soft. I called Raceland and explained everything to them, and they asked for pictures to make sure everything has been installed correctly. So i sent the pictures and about 4 days later I got an email back from a rep whos name is Davin. he told me that they could send a new spring when ever was convient for me. Since I am moving and do not have a mailing adress I asked him if I could hold off for about 1 month untill I get back to college, I also asked him if they could send two new springs because I want them to both settle togeather and i was not sure what spring was causing problems.
I wanted to share what he sent me:
That's fine. We can arrange that once you have an address squared away. I'll
be sure to detail that in the notes for your order. We can arrange for a
swap at that time and we'll be sure to test each spring prior to leaving to
ensure they're both the same rate. Let me know, thanks!
-end
So i was very pleased to hear that they were truely backing their product and were willing to work with me to fix the problem. Also in an eariler email I told him that I know most companies want the "defective" product back, then they need to test it and then they determine what to do or if the product is even defective or not. I HATE this method, it takes too long! and most of the time they wont cover shipping unless something is found to be wrong.
I told him this and that since I am in college that I need my car. He said that the policy that i just stated is normally how it is done, but he worked with me and said that since I cannot have my car sitting up on jack stands that they could send me the two new springs and they would just have my credit card on file. And I know that through a phone call with another man, they cover shipping ( or atlease they will work something out with me so that we can all be happy).
I am very impressed and pleased with how well Raceland has responded to my problem and especially how much they are willing to work with me to ensure that the problem is solved.
My hat is off to you Raceland!
#71
Mechanics? you should deff install the racelands yourself, it will save you alot of money and it will be done they way you want it. Plus the coils are pretty easy.
and as far as the bump stops go, take the wheel off you if they are there you will be able to see them, its hard not to. but it really does not matter that much if they are not there since new ones come with the reacelands.
and as far as the bump stops go, take the wheel off you if they are there you will be able to see them, its hard not to. but it really does not matter that much if they are not there since new ones come with the reacelands.
#72
Mine are settling fine I believe... I haven't noticed any difference in drop on any of the springs. Hoping my front keeps going lower!
My tires don't stick out too bad. They curl right into the fender when going over bumps so it's perfect. I may put camber shims on the back if I ever get around to it.
I ordered a fender roller yesterday and should be getting it tomorrow which will solve all the rubbing problems in the rear.
My tires don't stick out too bad. They curl right into the fender when going over bumps so it's perfect. I may put camber shims on the back if I ever get around to it.
I ordered a fender roller yesterday and should be getting it tomorrow which will solve all the rubbing problems in the rear.
#73
Yeah with the sprotline you are not low enough to bottem the strut out so there should be no issues there, however if you take out the rear perches and the helper spring on the racelands, deff have them
#74
The Racelands come mounted with bump stops, just make sure to keep them on when you remove the helper spring.
If you want to go lower in the front, I suggest taking off the 2nd adjustment ring since you don't need it, and shaving off the bump stop the height of the ring (like 3-5mm?). You will ride on them eventually though. I'm between 1-5mm from them...
#75
XAXAXa, the car is loking hot, those 200 lbs of bass are really making a difference in the rear, i would be worried about the rears setteling a bit more since you have the extra weight.
all in all I agree with your comments, especially about the tool to put the new nut on the top hat, how did you end up doing it, i was a little confused about what you wrote. The way I did it was with an impact wrench even tho it said not to, i used low pressure and just moved the nut down little by little
Itscurtsk, im sure that you would be able to use any shock in the rear you wanted provided its longer than the raceland one, if it is a little bit longer then your travel should be just fine, a shock is shock
all in all I agree with your comments, especially about the tool to put the new nut on the top hat, how did you end up doing it, i was a little confused about what you wrote. The way I did it was with an impact wrench even tho it said not to, i used low pressure and just moved the nut down little by little
Itscurtsk, im sure that you would be able to use any shock in the rear you wanted provided its longer than the raceland one, if it is a little bit longer then your travel should be just fine, a shock is shock
BTW I wouldn't use a different shock. Raceland designed these things to be used together, I wouldn't use Tokicos if I were you... esp. since your modding them.
#76
so i've installed the rear springs, no perches and omg i'm impressed.
i'm on 205/45/17 and i have like 1 finger gap and might go even lower if it settles anymore.
i had trouble removing my tokico shocks, i tried to remove the nut on the top but it keeps turning with the rod. i was only able to get the nut high enough and i couldn't grip the rod with pliers anymore so i'm stuck.
yet riding on tokicos felt way better than when i had eibachs for some reason, it was less stiff my friend said. i'm just gonna stay on my tokico shocks, they are meant for aftermarket parts anyways.
looking at the front strut set up, it is not possible to remove the collars. the collar won't slide off because the metal plate the bump stop sits on is in the way. you will probably have to shave around that metal plate.
i noticed when fully compressed, without helper spring, the regular spring is barely compressed. that's why cutting the bump stop is a must so the tophat comes into contact with the top of the spring and actually gives it some compression. i'm just skeptical how well will that spring absorb the shock from going over bumps. i'll be cutting my bump stop about 1/3 off.
question about installing the fronts, the 2 big nuts don't fit into the holes at the base of the struts? i will have to shave off some metal and make it bigger? did you do that too xAxAxA?
pics coming very soon.
i'm on 205/45/17 and i have like 1 finger gap and might go even lower if it settles anymore.
i had trouble removing my tokico shocks, i tried to remove the nut on the top but it keeps turning with the rod. i was only able to get the nut high enough and i couldn't grip the rod with pliers anymore so i'm stuck.
yet riding on tokicos felt way better than when i had eibachs for some reason, it was less stiff my friend said. i'm just gonna stay on my tokico shocks, they are meant for aftermarket parts anyways.
looking at the front strut set up, it is not possible to remove the collars. the collar won't slide off because the metal plate the bump stop sits on is in the way. you will probably have to shave around that metal plate.
i noticed when fully compressed, without helper spring, the regular spring is barely compressed. that's why cutting the bump stop is a must so the tophat comes into contact with the top of the spring and actually gives it some compression. i'm just skeptical how well will that spring absorb the shock from going over bumps. i'll be cutting my bump stop about 1/3 off.
question about installing the fronts, the 2 big nuts don't fit into the holes at the base of the struts? i will have to shave off some metal and make it bigger? did you do that too xAxAxA?
pics coming very soon.
#77
these pics are fresh right after installing. finger gap is about 1 fat finger or 1 and a half skinny finger. even though the picture shows 2, i couldn't even slide it in. "that's what she said."
#78
so i've installed the rear springs, no perches and omg i'm impressed.
i'm on 205/45/17 and i have like 1 finger gap and might go even lower if it settles anymore.
i had trouble removing my tokico shocks, i tried to remove the nut on the top but it keeps turning with the rod. i was only able to get the nut high enough and i couldn't grip the rod with pliers anymore so i'm stuck.
yet riding on tokicos felt way better than when i had eibachs for some reason, it was less stiff my friend said. i'm just gonna stay on my tokico shocks, they are meant for aftermarket parts anyways.
looking at the front strut set up, it is not possible to remove the collars. the collar won't slide off because the metal plate the bump stop sits on is in the way. you will probably have to shave around that metal plate.
i noticed when fully compressed, without helper spring, the regular spring is barely compressed. that's why cutting the bump stop is a must so the tophat comes into contact with the top of the spring and actually gives it some compression. i'm just skeptical how well will that spring absorb the shock from going over bumps. i'll be cutting my bump stop about 1/3 off.
question about installing the fronts, the 2 big nuts don't fit into the holes at the base of the struts? i will have to shave off some metal and make it bigger? did you do that too xAxAxA?
pics coming very soon.
i'm on 205/45/17 and i have like 1 finger gap and might go even lower if it settles anymore.
i had trouble removing my tokico shocks, i tried to remove the nut on the top but it keeps turning with the rod. i was only able to get the nut high enough and i couldn't grip the rod with pliers anymore so i'm stuck.
yet riding on tokicos felt way better than when i had eibachs for some reason, it was less stiff my friend said. i'm just gonna stay on my tokico shocks, they are meant for aftermarket parts anyways.
looking at the front strut set up, it is not possible to remove the collars. the collar won't slide off because the metal plate the bump stop sits on is in the way. you will probably have to shave around that metal plate.
i noticed when fully compressed, without helper spring, the regular spring is barely compressed. that's why cutting the bump stop is a must so the tophat comes into contact with the top of the spring and actually gives it some compression. i'm just skeptical how well will that spring absorb the shock from going over bumps. i'll be cutting my bump stop about 1/3 off.
question about installing the fronts, the 2 big nuts don't fit into the holes at the base of the struts? i will have to shave off some metal and make it bigger? did you do that too xAxAxA?
pics coming very soon.
And also in my initial review that i wrote, I had a similar problem where I the two bolts would not go in so I used a drill to shave some metal away
and also
#79
it just showed up that you put up pictures, it looks good
next summer im removing the helper springs and rear perches. im pretty sure i will not be able to get a finger in there, i may even be slightly tucked since my springs have settled at least 3/5 of an inch and i can barely get 2 fingers in all the way around as it is
next summer im removing the helper springs and rear perches. im pretty sure i will not be able to get a finger in there, i may even be slightly tucked since my springs have settled at least 3/5 of an inch and i can barely get 2 fingers in all the way around as it is
#80
yea i will remove the top nut completely before even jacking up the car.
found out how to remove the collar -
the metal washer the bump stop sits on can be popped off and you're suppose to remove the smaller bottom collar
is it bad to remove the bigger collar instead? it's probably not as safe huh
found out how to remove the collar -
the metal washer the bump stop sits on can be popped off and you're suppose to remove the smaller bottom collar
is it bad to remove the bigger collar instead? it's probably not as safe huh