Raceland Coilover Review for the xA
05-11-2013, 03:56 PM
#141
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 179
yeah, I have the ability to roll the fenders, I just cannot. My car was in a wreck before I bought it so they body shop bondoed the rear quarter panel on the passengers side, so If I tried to roll the fenders the bondo will just pop out, then I would have to get that all fixed again, it would just cost too much money and it would not be worth it.
So basically, sucks to suck. Im stuck with it how it is, which is ok with me, it still looks good
So basically, sucks to suck. Im stuck with it how it is, which is ok with me, it still looks good
05-12-2013, 05:27 AM
#142
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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well, they were delivered today. very well packaged as others have mentioned, but still no directions. can someone give me a basic set of directions so i know what order to do everything in? I have zero experience with coilovers.
i got a couple questions about modding them.
1. How much of the bumpstop can i cut off safely, and does it matter from which end i take it off? I had read on some other sites that a lot of people just take them out completely, but general consensus with that says you risk damage that way.
2. Can you safely remove the bottom ring that is supposed to be run against the perch to lock it? it looks like it should be okay and gain a hair more of a drop.
i got a couple questions about modding them.
1. How much of the bumpstop can i cut off safely, and does it matter from which end i take it off? I had read on some other sites that a lot of people just take them out completely, but general consensus with that says you risk damage that way.
2. Can you safely remove the bottom ring that is supposed to be run against the perch to lock it? it looks like it should be okay and gain a hair more of a drop.
05-12-2013, 09:41 PM
#143
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fronts:
loosen the three nuts at the top on the strut under the hood after you jack it up. Inthe wheel well, there will be a small bolt on the back of the strut holing the break line and abs sensor. Undo that and move it out of the way.
Then there will be 2 large nuts and bolts going through the bottom of the struts. Take those out.
everything will be loose. to get it out you need to play around with it, twisting things and moving things. You need to jimmy it around. Be careful of the CV boot!
then you need to take the top hats off and use those on the raceland coils. you will need spring compressors to safely take of the top hats from the stock struts.
As far as cutting the bump stops, i cut mine a little more than half way. you should be fine with that. And you can remove the bottom ring, i think its pointless its probably .5 cm thick...not worth it, I promise you will not be able to teel a difference in the drop if its there or not.
Reassembly of the front:
wiggle the new strut in and get the top hat studs to go through the top of the strut mount and hand tighten the nuts at the top just to hold it in place and take the weight off of your arms.
once that is done, get the bottem bolts lined up (look back at the first page for pics and more description of what I had to do) dont forget to reconnect he break lines
Rears.
Undo the tops of the shocks on both sides (unless you have spring compressors to get the rear springs out)if you have the compressors just undo the one side, jack the car up. remove the bottom nut from the shock, it will now slide right out. you will need to reuse the dust cover so take that off (the big black plastic/metal sleeve around the shaft, the sleeve that sits on the underside of the shock mount.
before putting the new shock in remove the old spring, since you are not using coils, the new ones should just slip in and not need to be compressed to get them in. make sure you have the Raceland logo right side up for proper spring installation. Now put the shock back in, put the bottom nut back on and wheel. SLOWLY let the car down just enough to get the top of the shock to go back through the hole at the top of the shock mount and then tighten from the top.
If you do it this way, i hope you have a good jack that is very control able because if it is not, it can drop on you arm if you dont have a stop under it.
I would not really recommend doing it this way, it is kind of scary and you can get hurt. this is just the way i HAD to do it. If you have another jack, i would put it under the axle and jack it up a bit to seat the shock properly.
the install is actually very simple.
just go slow and be careful, If you do the rears the way I had to (which I hope you do not have to do) just make sure you have something that can catch the weight of the car if the jack let go (so you wont crush your arm).
Hopefully everything goes well and like I said and cannot stress enough if you do the rears my way BE CAREFUL!!
loosen the three nuts at the top on the strut under the hood after you jack it up. Inthe wheel well, there will be a small bolt on the back of the strut holing the break line and abs sensor. Undo that and move it out of the way.
Then there will be 2 large nuts and bolts going through the bottom of the struts. Take those out.
everything will be loose. to get it out you need to play around with it, twisting things and moving things. You need to jimmy it around. Be careful of the CV boot!
then you need to take the top hats off and use those on the raceland coils. you will need spring compressors to safely take of the top hats from the stock struts.
As far as cutting the bump stops, i cut mine a little more than half way. you should be fine with that. And you can remove the bottom ring, i think its pointless its probably .5 cm thick...not worth it, I promise you will not be able to teel a difference in the drop if its there or not.
Reassembly of the front:
wiggle the new strut in and get the top hat studs to go through the top of the strut mount and hand tighten the nuts at the top just to hold it in place and take the weight off of your arms.
once that is done, get the bottem bolts lined up (look back at the first page for pics and more description of what I had to do) dont forget to reconnect he break lines
Rears.
Undo the tops of the shocks on both sides (unless you have spring compressors to get the rear springs out)if you have the compressors just undo the one side, jack the car up. remove the bottom nut from the shock, it will now slide right out. you will need to reuse the dust cover so take that off (the big black plastic/metal sleeve around the shaft, the sleeve that sits on the underside of the shock mount.
before putting the new shock in remove the old spring, since you are not using coils, the new ones should just slip in and not need to be compressed to get them in. make sure you have the Raceland logo right side up for proper spring installation. Now put the shock back in, put the bottom nut back on and wheel. SLOWLY let the car down just enough to get the top of the shock to go back through the hole at the top of the shock mount and then tighten from the top.
If you do it this way, i hope you have a good jack that is very control able because if it is not, it can drop on you arm if you dont have a stop under it.
I would not really recommend doing it this way, it is kind of scary and you can get hurt. this is just the way i HAD to do it. If you have another jack, i would put it under the axle and jack it up a bit to seat the shock properly.
the install is actually very simple.
just go slow and be careful, If you do the rears the way I had to (which I hope you do not have to do) just make sure you have something that can catch the weight of the car if the jack let go (so you wont crush your arm).
Hopefully everything goes well and like I said and cannot stress enough if you do the rears my way BE CAREFUL!!
05-12-2013, 10:29 PM
#144
Go buy a floor jack from somewhere like a Harbor Freight if you have one. They're no more than $40 and will save you so much time.
I cut mine half as much I think. I also took out the lower collar, but it didn't do much... You might as well do it before you put them on if you're slamming it.
I cut mine half as much I think. I also took out the lower collar, but it didn't do much... You might as well do it before you put them on if you're slamming it.
05-13-2013, 07:14 AM
#145
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 403
fronts:
loosen the three nuts at the top on the strut under the hood after you jack it up. Inthe wheel well, there will be a small bolt on the back of the strut holing the break line and abs sensor. Undo that and move it out of the way.
Then there will be 2 large nuts and bolts going through the bottom of the struts. Take those out.
everything will be loose. to get it out you need to play around with it, twisting things and moving things. You need to jimmy it around. Be careful of the CV boot!
then you need to take the top hats off and use those on the raceland coils. you will need spring compressors to safely take of the top hats from the stock struts.
As far as cutting the bump stops, i cut mine a little more than half way. you should be fine with that. And you can remove the bottom ring, i think its pointless its probably .5 cm thick...not worth it, I promise you will not be able to teel a difference in the drop if its there or not.
Reassembly of the front:
wiggle the new strut in and get the top hat studs to go through the top of the strut mount and hand tighten the nuts at the top just to hold it in place and take the weight off of your arms.
once that is done, get the bottom bolts lined up (look back at the first page for pics and more description of what I had to do) dont forget to reconnect he break lines
Rears.
Undo the tops of the shocks on both sides (unless you have spring compressors to get the rear springs out)if you have the compressors just undo the one side, jack the car up. remove the bottom nut from the shock, it will now slide right out. you will need to reuse the dust cover so take that off (the big black plastic/metal sleeve around the shaft, the sleeve that sits on the underside of the shock mount.
before putting the new shock in remove the old spring, since you are not using coils, the new ones should just slip in and not need to be compressed to get them in. make sure you have the Raceland logo right side up for proper spring installation. Now put the shock back in, put the bottom nut back on and wheel. SLOWLY let the car down just enough to get the top of the shock to go back through the hole at the top of the shock mount and then tighten from the top.
If you do it this way, i hope you have a good jack that is very control able because if it is not, it can drop on you arm if you dont have a stop under it.
I would not really recommend doing it this way, it is kind of scary and you can get hurt. this is just the way i HAD to do it. If you have another jack, i would put it under the axle and jack it up a bit to seat the shock properly.
the install is actually very simple.
just go slow and be careful, If you do the rears the way I had to (which I hope you do not have to do) just make sure you have something that can catch the weight of the car if the jack let go (so you wont crush your arm).
Hopefully everything goes well and like I said and cannot stress enough if you do the rears my way BE CAREFUL!!
loosen the three nuts at the top on the strut under the hood after you jack it up. Inthe wheel well, there will be a small bolt on the back of the strut holing the break line and abs sensor. Undo that and move it out of the way.
Then there will be 2 large nuts and bolts going through the bottom of the struts. Take those out.
everything will be loose. to get it out you need to play around with it, twisting things and moving things. You need to jimmy it around. Be careful of the CV boot!
then you need to take the top hats off and use those on the raceland coils. you will need spring compressors to safely take of the top hats from the stock struts.
As far as cutting the bump stops, i cut mine a little more than half way. you should be fine with that. And you can remove the bottom ring, i think its pointless its probably .5 cm thick...not worth it, I promise you will not be able to teel a difference in the drop if its there or not.
Reassembly of the front:
wiggle the new strut in and get the top hat studs to go through the top of the strut mount and hand tighten the nuts at the top just to hold it in place and take the weight off of your arms.
once that is done, get the bottom bolts lined up (look back at the first page for pics and more description of what I had to do) dont forget to reconnect he break lines
Rears.
Undo the tops of the shocks on both sides (unless you have spring compressors to get the rear springs out)if you have the compressors just undo the one side, jack the car up. remove the bottom nut from the shock, it will now slide right out. you will need to reuse the dust cover so take that off (the big black plastic/metal sleeve around the shaft, the sleeve that sits on the underside of the shock mount.
before putting the new shock in remove the old spring, since you are not using coils, the new ones should just slip in and not need to be compressed to get them in. make sure you have the Raceland logo right side up for proper spring installation. Now put the shock back in, put the bottom nut back on and wheel. SLOWLY let the car down just enough to get the top of the shock to go back through the hole at the top of the shock mount and then tighten from the top.
If you do it this way, i hope you have a good jack that is very control able because if it is not, it can drop on you arm if you dont have a stop under it.
I would not really recommend doing it this way, it is kind of scary and you can get hurt. this is just the way i HAD to do it. If you have another jack, i would put it under the axle and jack it up a bit to seat the shock properly.
the install is actually very simple.
just go slow and be careful, If you do the rears the way I had to (which I hope you do not have to do) just make sure you have something that can catch the weight of the car if the jack let go (so you wont crush your arm).
Hopefully everything goes well and like I said and cannot stress enough if you do the rears my way BE CAREFUL!!
Go buy a floor jack from somewhere like a Harbor Freight if you have one. They're no more than $40 and will save you so much time.
I cut mine half as much I think. I also took out the lower collar, but it didn't do much... You might as well do it before you put them on if you're slamming it.
I cut mine half as much I think. I also took out the lower collar, but it didn't do much... You might as well do it before you put them on if you're slamming it.
guess ill go with the stops in half, seems about the average. ill probably just toss the extra collar then.
05-15-2013, 04:16 AM
#146
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 403
well, i installed them yesterday. everything went great! it was not nearly as hard as I was expecting. i assume i did not end up needing a spring compressor because i was already on ksport springs, so when everything was unbolted it released enough pressure that nothing came flying apart. overall, it probably took 2 or 3 hours of work, but i took multiple breaks cause it was very hot outside. the drop is excellent already, slightly tucked front and back.
there was only one problem though. my tires actually caught the larger adjusting perch/ring on the front, no good. so i had to have my girlfriend run up to pepboys to pick up some of those cheap ___ spacers universal spacers they sell there. i went with a 1/4 inch spacer, and it was enough to clear it. Its still close though, as i was unable to get the bigger spanner wrench (one of the ones from the kit) between my tire and the ring, but the smaller one slide through. so i am stuck using those for now.
good news though, that game me good reason to buy some proper spacer kits! i got ichiba v1 kits coming, one in 10mm for the front, and 15mm for the rear. i am hoping that i will be fine on clearance with the body though, because currently there is about a finger between the fender and the front tires, and about 1.5 fingers (maybe two) between the fender and rears.
there was only one problem though. my tires actually caught the larger adjusting perch/ring on the front, no good. so i had to have my girlfriend run up to pepboys to pick up some of those cheap ___ spacers universal spacers they sell there. i went with a 1/4 inch spacer, and it was enough to clear it. Its still close though, as i was unable to get the bigger spanner wrench (one of the ones from the kit) between my tire and the ring, but the smaller one slide through. so i am stuck using those for now.
good news though, that game me good reason to buy some proper spacer kits! i got ichiba v1 kits coming, one in 10mm for the front, and 15mm for the rear. i am hoping that i will be fine on clearance with the body though, because currently there is about a finger between the fender and the front tires, and about 1.5 fingers (maybe two) between the fender and rears.
05-16-2013, 03:29 AM
#147
well, i installed them yesterday. everything went great! it was not nearly as hard as I was expecting. i assume i did not end up needing a spring compressor because i was already on ksport springs, so when everything was unbolted it released enough pressure that nothing came flying apart. overall, it probably took 2 or 3 hours of work, but i took multiple breaks cause it was very hot outside. the drop is excellent already, slightly tucked front and back.
there was only one problem though. my tires actually caught the larger adjusting perch/ring on the front, no good. so i had to have my girlfriend run up to pepboys to pick up some of those cheap ___ spacers universal spacers they sell there. i went with a 1/4 inch spacer, and it was enough to clear it. Its still close though, as i was unable to get the bigger spanner wrench (one of the ones from the kit) between my tire and the ring, but the smaller one slide through. so i am stuck using those for now.
good news though, that game me good reason to buy some proper spacer kits! i got ichiba v1 kits coming, one in 10mm for the front, and 15mm for the rear. i am hoping that i will be fine on clearance with the body though, because currently there is about a finger between the fender and the front tires, and about 1.5 fingers (maybe two) between the fender and rears.
there was only one problem though. my tires actually caught the larger adjusting perch/ring on the front, no good. so i had to have my girlfriend run up to pepboys to pick up some of those cheap ___ spacers universal spacers they sell there. i went with a 1/4 inch spacer, and it was enough to clear it. Its still close though, as i was unable to get the bigger spanner wrench (one of the ones from the kit) between my tire and the ring, but the smaller one slide through. so i am stuck using those for now.
good news though, that game me good reason to buy some proper spacer kits! i got ichiba v1 kits coming, one in 10mm for the front, and 15mm for the rear. i am hoping that i will be fine on clearance with the body though, because currently there is about a finger between the fender and the front tires, and about 1.5 fingers (maybe two) between the fender and rears.
My front passenger shock makes an awful noise now cause I didn't put a dust cover or anything on it and I guess it got something that messed up the seal so now it makes a groaning noise as I drive. Hopefully some grease will fix it, but I'm getting the K-Sport coils this week so Racelands will be my back ups.
05-16-2013, 06:08 AM
#148
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 403
Dang dude, what's your offset? I didn't even think about rubbing the collars... I didn't rub with the steelies. I have 0 fingers in the rears, but I have 300lbs of system in the hatch. And one in the front.
My front passenger shock makes an awful noise now cause I didn't put a dust cover or anything on it and I guess it got something that messed up the seal so now it makes a groaning noise as I drive. Hopefully some grease will fix it, but I'm getting the K-Sport coils this week so Racelands will be my back ups.
My front passenger shock makes an awful noise now cause I didn't put a dust cover or anything on it and I guess it got something that messed up the seal so now it makes a groaning noise as I drive. Hopefully some grease will fix it, but I'm getting the K-Sport coils this week so Racelands will be my back ups.
I will get some pictures after i wash it next time, its looking better and better.
05-23-2013, 04:11 AM
#150
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 179
well, i installed them yesterday. everything went great! it was not nearly as hard as I was expecting. i assume i did not end up needing a spring compressor because i was already on ksport springs, so when everything was unbolted it released enough pressure that nothing came flying apart. overall, it probably took 2 or 3 hours of work, but i took multiple breaks cause it was very hot outside. the drop is excellent already, slightly tucked front and back.
there was only one problem though. my tires actually caught the larger adjusting perch/ring on the front, no good. so i had to have my girlfriend run up to pepboys to pick up some of those cheap ___ spacers universal spacers they sell there. i went with a 1/4 inch spacer, and it was enough to clear it. Its still close though, as i was unable to get the bigger spanner wrench (one of the ones from the kit) between my tire and the ring, but the smaller one slide through. so i am stuck using those for now.
good news though, that game me good reason to buy some proper spacer kits! i got ichiba v1 kits coming, one in 10mm for the front, and 15mm for the rear. i am hoping that i will be fine on clearance with the body though, because currently there is about a finger between the fender and the front tires, and about 1.5 fingers (maybe two) between the fender and rears.
there was only one problem though. my tires actually caught the larger adjusting perch/ring on the front, no good. so i had to have my girlfriend run up to pepboys to pick up some of those cheap ___ spacers universal spacers they sell there. i went with a 1/4 inch spacer, and it was enough to clear it. Its still close though, as i was unable to get the bigger spanner wrench (one of the ones from the kit) between my tire and the ring, but the smaller one slide through. so i am stuck using those for now.
good news though, that game me good reason to buy some proper spacer kits! i got ichiba v1 kits coming, one in 10mm for the front, and 15mm for the rear. i am hoping that i will be fine on clearance with the body though, because currently there is about a finger between the fender and the front tires, and about 1.5 fingers (maybe two) between the fender and rears.
And I'm surprised your rubbing, have a 45 offset and I'm good
Either way, can't wait to see pics!
05-23-2013, 07:42 AM
#151
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 403
its looking damn good though. besides the rear catching now, i have realized since it actually tucks a little i have to figure out a new way to shine my tires lol.
05-23-2013, 07:19 PM
#152
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 30
i accidentally ordered two sets of 10mm spacers, but since the cost to return and exchange wouldve been almost as much as buying another whole set, i used them anyways. luckily the fit was good, on the front. the rear is too close and catches the inside of my fender on hard dips, so i am going to get my fenders rolled a little to clear it.
its looking damn good though. besides the rear catching now, i have realized since it actually tucks a little i have to figure out a new way to shine my tires lol.
its looking damn good though. besides the rear catching now, i have realized since it actually tucks a little i have to figure out a new way to shine my tires lol.
06-24-2013, 09:32 PM
#153
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 172
What are you guys using to adjust the wheel alignment after the drop? I have Eibach camber bolts in the front and shims in the rear. I'm guessing I'm gonna have to get new shims. Will the camber bolts be enough to align the front?
06-25-2013, 05:41 AM
#154
Stock adjustments on the front for me. Shims in the rear to correct some bad toe I had.
06-30-2013, 05:27 AM
#155
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 172
I finally got around to installing my Racelands today. How did you guys keep the strut rod from turning when tightening the top nut?
I installed the rears without the perch. The fronts are at the lowest without anything removed. My poor rear tires sound like their shredding. I'm gonna have to get my fenders rolled. I might go a bit lower on the front. I'm gonna wait for the springs to settle.
I installed the rears without the perch. The fronts are at the lowest without anything removed. My poor rear tires sound like their shredding. I'm gonna have to get my fenders rolled. I might go a bit lower on the front. I'm gonna wait for the springs to settle.
07-01-2013, 04:44 AM
#156
I finally got around to installing my Racelands today. How did you guys keep the strut rod from turning when tightening the top nut?
I installed the rears without the perch. The fronts are at the lowest without anything removed. My poor rear tires sound like their shredding. I'm gonna have to get my fenders rolled. I might go a bit lower on the front. I'm gonna wait for the springs to settle.
I installed the rears without the perch. The fronts are at the lowest without anything removed. My poor rear tires sound like their shredding. I'm gonna have to get my fenders rolled. I might go a bit lower on the front. I'm gonna wait for the springs to settle.
07-01-2013, 05:57 AM
#157
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 172
I won't be able to get my car aligned and fenders rolled until next weekend, so I'm gonna have to use the spare car this week. :/ I don't like that this spring/strut combo is so soft. I can feel the back move up and down while I'm driving. I Wish they were load adjustable.
07-03-2013, 12:50 AM
#158
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 179
They make a special too, for tightening them, I ended up using an impact wrench. I know it says not to but the only concern is over tightening the nut so then the top hat won't spin
I went slow and tightened it bit by bit, and the shock did spin but the nut was moving down. While doing this I kept turning and wiggling the top hat and once I could no longer wiggle it but could still spin it, I stopped. And that will do it.
I went slow and tightened it bit by bit, and the shock did spin but the nut was moving down. While doing this I kept turning and wiggling the top hat and once I could no longer wiggle it but could still spin it, I stopped. And that will do it.
08-14-2013, 05:56 AM
#159
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
slammed xa
a lot of people trash talk the raceland coilovers
how happy were you with the ride quality that you got from them man?
I really want to drop my car using coilovers and the raceland brand are the cheapest ones out there that i've seen
how happy were you with the ride quality that you got from them man?
I really want to drop my car using coilovers and the raceland brand are the cheapest ones out there that i've seen
08-14-2013, 07:23 AM
#160
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 172
I should have saved up for some megan coilovers or something similar.