applesrfriends

sorry about that Mod, i didn't know at first. will do next time my apologies

ayS

looking forward to getting some rear sway bars as well. hopefully the install is easy as it says.

tanakasan

ayS, its four bolts and 10~15 minutes for the Progress RSB.

ayS

2 on each side?

tanakasan

Yes, 2 per side. Do an eBay search for "xb sway", shows how it attaches.

Withaquicknes

the easiest and best suspension mod is to add the trd rear sway bar, although im going to look into the hotchkis set for the front and rear. the front you have to remove the k member so thats going to be a lil more complicated. ill get back to you when i actually do this mod

goyogi

Stock swaybars
Front is 0.98" or 24.9mm
Rear is 0.68" or 17.3mm

BoxOffice

Stock rear bar? I didn't have a rear bar...!?

goyogi

Stock rear bar is inside your torsion beam.

myzer

Which one is the Best out of the four sway bars?

___

goyogi

Depends what you want. They all basically do the same thing except to varying degrees.
Hotchkis = Slightly better than stock
TRD and Progress = much better than stock
Whiteline = brings car close to neutral but you must be very careful and watch for oversteer. Only recommended for alert drivers.

If you are indeed 16 then I'd suggest being safe and going with the Hotchkis, TRD or Progress.

Easiest to install are TRD/Progress. Hotchkis you have to do some major work to install the front bar.
I have the whiteline and am happy with it. I have gotten some slight oversteer when I push it but I am able to catch it and bring it back in line. I have some Hotchkis front and rear that should be coming next week.. That will reduce the overall sway while still keeping it close to neutral...I hope. I haven't found anyone that has tried this yet.

of course myzer this is MY opinion. Please search the archives for others.

myzer

i was thinking about progressive

Cinderblock

hey guys, since the stock torsion beam is shaped kinda like a v and open, what if you welded a long plate to it to close it up and strengthen it? would this be to much or you think it would work?

goyogi

I have thought of boxing in the rear torsion beam myself. And you could actually weld a long plate over the entire beam and if it's too stiff you could cut slits at either end and keep cutting till it's at the level you desire.

My only concern would be that if you stiffen up one area then the pressure is greater on the parts that aren't boxed in which can lead to greater metal fatigue because more force will be distributed to those weaker areas. Maybe I'm overly concerned.

I decided to get the sway bar and realize that I can always sell it later on and recoup some of my money.

If money is a concern, be patient and you'll see every now and then someone selling their old bar.

hyrev

Cusco 28mm
Normal on bB 24mm

XBMutha

I would suggest only replacing the rear bar to a larger size. To decrease overall body roll put some stiffer bushings on the bars. Something made from a higher durometer urethane or delrin.

I haven't really took a look under the car yet but in general this would be the thing to do.

Nearly every factory car is made to understeer because it is the safest thing to have the car do when pushed to hard in a turn. Generally speaking if a car is sliding in a turn you will jump off the throttle and regain control.

If the car is set up to over steer or be neutral and you jumped off the throttle or even hit the brakes your car will want to spin.

How do I know? On my old car I strapped the rear to limit the rear suspension downward travel and therefore increase the amount of oversteer to the point that if I would jump off the throttle mid turn, even going slow the car would spin. You have to be very alert to drive that type of setup, but it is great for racing. I could push the car so hard through the turn (neutrally) that all four tires would start to smoke.

My old car was an aspirated Chevy Metro with a large cam, CAI, fully gutted. Wet the car weighed around 1400 Lbs. with a little over 105 HP. For those who don't know this car is made by Suzuki. A very fun ride and I miss it dearly.

waxfondlr

With VW / Audi .. some of the front sways have to be changed merely because it is in the way of the driveshaft or clutch linkage (i forget which) when lowered more then like 1.5 inches

This was the case when I had H&R Coils on my MK4 QTi

I don't believe Scions have this problem...

Also might want to add if the set comes with new bushings/type

___

mrsocks

I already know I am gonna install Rear Sway Bar. what you guys have written has me concerned though. although I've had many cars sideways, the discussion regarding under-over steer is interesting. i had always thought understeer was just a bad quality attributed to big old American cars from the 50's, 60's and 70's. now, your feedback will decide me which bar I will choose. Whitelines or the TRD/ Progress choice....... are you saying that the car's rear end will break loose sooner with less understeer? it seems to almost want to drift all 4 simultaneously now and all i have are TRD springs and 17" wheels. i wouldn't mind seeing more discussion/ explanation! also from what i have seen (only pics of Whitelines),
I don't really like the way the Whitelines attaches to shock mount using that 90 degree plate. I would prefer direct attachment to the shock bolt. Comments please! Thanks all!

______

evosky

^^^ understeer is basically when your car keeps going in a straight line (original direction of when you entered the turn). You would be sliding sideways pretty much because the car is not steering as much as the input that you are putting in.

oversteer is when your tail will break loose first and spin you around from the back end. the car is rotating more than you expected with the steering input given.

understeer is more common/easier to get on FWD. oversteer is more common/easier to get on RWD.

thus for the front sway bar, you are stiffening the front and thus adding more understeer potential. for the rear sways, you are adding more stiffness to the rear and adding more oversteer potential.
since many cars (including the box) are FWD and designed to understerr, the rear sway will make the car more steering/handling neutral, and the car should drive more predictably and grip through corners with large steering input.

AWD is nuts.

XBMutha

In order to control over-steer with a front wheel drive, I use my throttle. If the car starts to over steer, I would counter steer and then give the car a little more throttle to help neutralize the over-steer.
By no means should you push the car hard in a turn and jump off the throttle or hit the brakes, you will put the car into a spin. Keep your pedal movements smooth and you will love the rewards of better handling.