XD40tC

Ok if you pull the carpet further down you will see a little circle in the metal where I measured from. When measuring from there the reading was different and I ended up lowering the pedal some. So I just test drove it and OMG it drives like freakin normal... I never thought I would be happy with how my car drives but I am... Trevor you are THE MAN!!! Im pretty sure the previous settings had something to do with a lot of unexpected mis-shifts Ive been having lately. Had to get used to starting off again lol but man it feels sporty now

BTW my jam nut on the clutch pedal height adjustment was a 14mm as well as the bolt. IDK if yours is different or what bat yeah.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

That's great Chris ! You're right, the jam nut on the pedal height adjustment is 14mm, not 17mm. Guess that's what I get for using memory a few hours later, I'm too used to jam nuts being larger than the adjustment bolt heads. Could have sworn it was 17mm !

Thinking of the final height adjustment, I may ease mine down just a tad more. For a reasonably comfortable arm reach and back position, my seat still crowds the clutch slightly, though nothing like before. There's plenty of release travel available below my engagement/release height, but proper operation of that clutch switch adjacent the height adjuster is a concern. Not yet sure exactly what it's for, but I'm suspecting it triggers cruise control disengagement when depressing the clutch. I don't want to risk messing that up, so something else to investigate .

XD40tC

Well I seem to have lucked out on adjustments and it feels just great! I enjoyed every bit of my driving experience today :D I wanna turbo this thing now...

Cory, if you havent done this yet you gotta!

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Finally got round to re-adjusting my clutch pedal. It was fine until I moved the seat forward one notch, but then it was just a little too crowded for true comfort. Now the shifter's the way I want it, it was time to complete the package ! I ended up adjusting it so the pedal is high enough to block my left foot from sliding across the brake pedal to the clutch pedal, but not more than that. Since that's a little lower than spec, I was very careful to make sure I had bare minimum play in the clutch cylinder actuator rod.

Just took it for a drive and I'd say given lack of a telescoping steering column, my driving position is now optimal, and so is the clutch/shift action. The old UPS truck days are fully banished !

Puredrive

Ugh........I want to do this/have this done, but I am still afraid to screw something up. I crawled under there with a light to have a look and I identified the clutch cylinder actuator rod, but not the point where you adjust the clutch pedal position itself. And concerning the cylinder actuator rod, as long as it is loose and jiggles around/side to side, that would indicate enough/appropriate free play correct? Sadly enough, I am contemplating taking it to the dealership and seeing if I can pay them to adjust it for me. However, I am concerned that it would/would not be done right. I just don't want to mess up the car, as I have made mistakes in the past while modding cars and paid the price. Not looking to go down that route again with this car.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

The pedal height adjustment is further up and nearer the driver's side of the car. To its immediate right (passenger side) is a switch that flags when the clutch pedal is depressed.

That would indicate there is play (very important), but there could also be excessive play. Mine had excessive play in addition to excessive height.

I feel for you Bro ! I'd be willing to do it for you (if you don't mind the occasional blue streak cursing while I'm under the dash. I hate being under dashes -- too darned hard to see, uncomfortable, and usually awkward angles and/or restricted accessibility )! Thing is, I can't provide a warranty, so it would only be the equivalent of you doing it yourself in that sense. Also, no way I'm driving to Massachusetts for it, you'd have to come down here !

Puredrive

^I know this is a pain in the butt, but is there anyway you can take a picture or two of how your clutch and brake pedals look currently (the height and differences between), as I am trying to gauge the position of my current clutch. If not, don't worry about it, I just thought I would ask. Thanks either way.

I popped the panel off to take a look at lunch time here ar work. There are a lot of wires on that thing behind there. If there is a way to improve how the cluth operates/feels from where it is now, I really want to do it. The odd engagement and travel makes me feel like I don't know how to drive a manual tranny car (and I have only had manual transmissions - 34 years old and on my 13th car).

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

This is how I have mine adjusted and I consider it optimal for me. (I'm definitely not saying others should adjust theirs the same way.) I have no problem with clutch drag, there's plenty of travel still in the pedal between the floor and the clutch re-engagement point. Course, if someone duplicates my setup but only partially depresses the clutch pedal when shifting, they could have drag issues. Thinking of that switch, I've yet to verify proper cruise control behavior.



Not that many connectors, about seven excluding the very topmost and the tall rightmost. Each connector plug/socket is unique so there's no risk of accidentally switching them. The whole thing isn't hard, it's just kinda slow going and the adjustments do require close attention -- you don't want to be sloppy with them.

Puredrive

Thanks man, I appreciate it!

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome -- I'm looking forward to your report after you get done !

A-snell

iTrader: (4)

hmm. now I gotta do this... just hope my back holds up to the contortionism.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

It's truly not a fun exercise dude! However, if you take your time and do it right, the result is absolutely golden ! Anybody with good mechanical ability can tackle this, so it's all about understanding what you're doing, taking your time, and ultimately being able to enjoy the result. Next to my short shifter, this change is my number one pleasure -- I just can't overstate it !

09BCMxB

If you have an m/t this is a must do adjustment! If you can't do the work, pay someone to do it for you! No more lifting my foot to engage the clutch and no more ambiguity in the feel of the clutch engagement.
Like Trevor, I have my pedal adjusted just above the brake pedal. Enough to catch the lip if I slide my foot across the brake pedal. I'm going to readjust the linkage one more time to get the engagement a little lower.

I was able to do the adjustment without disconnecting the electricals. I followed all the steps except the electrical disconnection. I did unbolt the electrical box from the chassis so that I could carefully move it around as necessary. Emphasis on carefully! Using a stubby 14mm open end wrench on the jam-nut makes it a lot easier. Trevor's way is safer, mine is easier. Don't blame me if you're not careful...

A tip for checking your adjustment when you're done. Make sure your parking brake is fully engaged. Leave your doors open. Put the car in neutral and start it. Release the clutch and then step on it again. Do not step on the accelerator! The synchros are very forgiving so this next part is important. Slowly put the car into 1st gear. If you feel the car move at all or if you see your doors shake at all, your linkage has too much freeplay. Do this a couple of times. If all is good so far, slowly release the clutch to feel where the clutch starts to engage. If it's too high your linkage doesn't have enough freeplay Do not fully release the clutch!
Now go drive your car and enjoy the clutch the way it should have been from the factory! Add Trevor's shortened shifter (see his other posts) and you will love shifting again!

chicagokid

Is this the same for 2011 tC 6MT as well?

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Gee, I wasn't aware the tC2 had this problem ! If it does, I've no idea if the procedure for lowering the clutch pedal would be the same, though I'd be inclined to doubt it. Are you sure this is really a problem with your car? I mean, the OE xB2 clutch pedal is akin to a delivery truck in its behavior -- I'd never expect that with a tC.

Roller_Toaster

iTrader: (1)

well, now that I've finished my swap, I realized how awful the OEM clutch is, lol.

I will be doing this on friday!

Roller_Toaster

iTrader: (1)

WOW! I just followed this DIY, and got it done in about 45 minutes. Definitely nothing difficult, just tedious work getting the wiring out of the way. Once the fuse/wiring block is out of the way, adjusting is super easy.

It feels like a CAR now, I can't get over how far out of adjustment this thing was!

For comparison's sake, I adjusted my clutch pedal to within a 1/4" of the brake pedal height.



Hmm...I came out to my car today, and my clutch was lying on the floor..

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Bummer ! Do you mean literally, or that it was in a fully depressed position? Since it was apparently working properly earlier (as in you drove it after adjustment and the pedal returned as normal), I'd first verify there's no fluid leakage. If none, then perhaps you adjusted the pedal down far enough or the master cylinder actuator rod in far enough to lose the over-center pedal return spring action -- or perhaps some combination of the above. The adjustment tolerances get more critical the lower you adjust the pedal.

FWIW -- I ran into the problem you described when I replaced the clutch master cylinder in my Eclipse a few years ago. I didn't change the pedal height, but my initial actuator rod adjustment was off resulting in the pedal going down and staying down. I was able to identify the issue simply by pressing the pedal down with my hand while performing the adjustment. While under the dash, if you press the pedal down by hand, it should return without issue. You should be able to easily identify the over-center spring action.

kalajary

I want to do this mod, but i'm afraid of damaging something...just a thought

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

When you do mods, there's never a guarantee you won't damage anything, though I wouldn't expect a patient mechanically capable person to have trouble with this. If you experience a post-adjustment problem, it's most likely due to rod miss-adjustment (or the pedal is set too low). Mine continues to work just fine and it's been roughly two years, good luck !