Bigfieroman

I went to the dealership with the Bat of Internet Justice and started shattering kneecaps until they printed out the alignment specs for the 2008 xB from TIS:

xseveredveganx

Good job!!!! NO, GREAT JOB!!!

I was afraid I was going to have an alignment shop tell me they don't know what to do since I put my springs on...

Reminds me, have you thrown on your Eibach's yet and sways yet?

Bigfieroman

This weekend, maybe tomorrow.

SquallLHeart

you could've asked us nicely?

lol.. i would've looked it up for ya

CIONIDE

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much Bigfieroman!

AAG

iTrader: (1)

so how bad is it if the 04-06 xb specs were used........?

Bigfieroman

The wheels will slowly work themselves loose until one falls off...should take about 2000 miles.


Actually, I don't know. I don't think it will kill your tires because most factory alignment specs are very mild, but it may affect your handling and ride a little. I recommend a factory-spec alignment.

Bigfieroman

I never miss an opportunity to use the bat. It is one of the few small joys in my life...I become a hunter, and kneecaps are my prey! Car dealer kneecaps are something of a delicacy as well.

Umm anyway, now that the joke has run its course, it is no big thing. Just gotta catch the service manager when he isn't hating his life as much as usual. He is kinda dead inside.

jonmach12

GRRRRRRRR.... so after having 20's put on my car, it now pulls to the right.... took it in for a alignment, they said everything was fine, took it back to teh tire and rim place, they checked the tires and they say they are fine..... Then i noticed that the alignment places used the spec form a 04-06 xB. Called them and they said they are the same.... In all my car still pulls to the right.

2Hip

Put my NF 210's on with new 18" rims this weekend. I took the car along with a print out of the alignment specs to a local 'Tires Plus' store as they had Sunday hours. Dropped the XB off with the specs and they call me .5 hour later saying that because the car has been lowered the geometry would be off and the alignment specs won't work and they can't do the alignment. They tried to enter the specs listed and they said the computer would not allow them to be used. Anyone else had them problem when trying to get a lowered car aligned? I'm due for my 5k service from the dealer maybe I should try to have them do the alignment. Would using the car without the proper alignment for 4 days be a bad thing?

Thnx

CIONIDE

iTrader: (1)

The only thing they can adjust is the front toe. The NF front drop is the same as the TRD (1") so I would think that your dealership should be able to do it. The alignment shop I went to didn't have the '08 xB in their computer either, but they were still able to adjust and correct my front toe.

A few days out of proper alignment shouldn't hurt anything, but I don't recommend waiting too long, even if it seems to drive straight. Mine drive straight after the spring install, but the "before & after" printout from my alignment shop showed that I had about 3x the specified limit for negative toe-in after putting on the springs... can you say Really Fast Tire Wear! I would have liked a little toe-in for high speed stability, but they adjusted it to zero. I'm expecting really long tire life now.

rockthebeef

I got mine done today. First off - a big shout out to Clarence Brown Alignment in San Diego. These guys set me up after 2 failed attempts at other shops. They are supposedly highly regarded in SD for doing lowered cars and lifted trucks. They will even align to your specs in case you race or something.

After changing my springs twice and getting new rims and tires mounted, my front end was actually toed out 3/16". Here's what the sheet said.

[table:861083fa4e]
BEFORE LF RF
CAMBER 1/2+ 1/16-
CASTER 6 1/4+ 6 3/8+
TOE out 3/16

AFTER LF RF
CAMBER 0 1/16-
CASTER 6 1/4+ 6 3/4+
TOE in 1/8
[/table:861083fa4e]

BFDBOX

nice about time some body posted info on this. I went on AllData at school and just grabbed the specs from there.

xBones

Next time, instead of shattering kneecaps, e-mail me and I'll get info off the TIS for you since I work at a dealer.

brettalesi

alright so heres my problem... ive had a slight alignment problem for a bit so i decided to take my car into Midas so they could do an alignment, they screwed up and used the 04-06 specs, not the 08. i didnt realize it until later that night so first thing in the morning it was back at the shop. they "fixed" the alignment to the proper specs, and it actually pulled worse than before.. long story short im never going to Midas for service again..
so today i had an appointment at the dealer for an alignment and explained the previous situation and they assured me they would align it ti the factory specs.i leave the car there for a while until i get a call telling me that everything is in alignment and i can come get the car. i didnt get a chance to check it on the way home, but tonight i was driving on some long flat stretches and it STILL PULLS... not as bad as it was after the midas job, but still noticeable.
So what do i do? take it back to the dealer and make them do it again? can they actually make it ride straight and wlll that have any negative effects since its not "to spec"
any help would be great because this is becoming a huge headache and its breaking the bank...
by the way im on 18x8 +40 offset motegi's and factory suspension

rockthebeef

Does it pull slightly or pretty hard? My car pulls ever so slightly to the right, even after I got my alignment. The shop noted my car as having a torque pull, which is a pull upon acceleration. I still pull even when coasting. I was wonderng if it was from the asymmetrical tread on my tires (Falken 912). I'm still not sure. I was thinking of taking it to the dealer so maybe I'll do that soon and report here.

My friend with an xB2 also pulls to the right. Anybody else?

brettalesi

yeah it pulls slightly to the right. its pulled like this for quite some time. its just frustrating going through all this if its still going to pull.

RedDragons

A lot of roads slant ever so slightly to the right to allow rain to runoff... not all roads but just putting that out there.

RC-PILOT

WOW, there is a lot going on in this thread.... Let's talk about a couple of issues....

Let's start with WHEEL OFFSET..... Even if you do not lower the B and you change wheels to a larger wheel 18"-20" it "can" cause a pull or drift because of the way the final torque is transfered from the CV Axle to the ground. If you change the original OFFSET to a lower number, it moves the wheel outward from the original position and that will cause the wheel to react differently to the rotational force from the CV Axle. This will cause a pull when accelerating and a drift while driving, reguardless of road crown. A lower offset will make the wheel want to drive under the car, a higher number will make it want to drive away from the car. RESULT... If you have changed from factory size & offset, the alignment will need to be adjusted, even if it has not been lowered.

Now for the LOWERING SPRINGS.... Same as above. Once you lower the vehicle, you change several things. Think about how the wheel is set up in "FACTORY" position. All spring sets out there lower the rear more than the front. It's hard to explain without showing you, but as the rear is lowered more than the front, it causes the top of the front strut to move back when referenced to the center of the front wheel. RESULT... EVERYTHING CHANGES and factory specs are no longer any good here either.

Now combine WHEELS & SPRINGS...... So now we are changing things with the wheels, then changing them more with the springs and looking for someone to be responsible for not being able to align the B after we have screwed it all up.

Once everything has been changed like this, you have to find someone that understands the "ART OF ALIGNMENT", not just the alignment specs from a factory setting that can NEVER be achieved at this point. You will have to find a shop that specializes in lowered vehicles as the guy earlier stated. There is a lot to the art of aligning a vehicle that has had that many changes done to it.

I hope this helps explain why there are no SPECS for the vehicle after alignment. There are too many variables and the spec chart would be 20 pages long.

Having said all that, I changed wheels to KONIG 16" with factory offset and lowered my RS6 on NF210's. It drives great!!! No pull, no drift. I am searching for a good shop to check the alignment, but even if I go through my factory tires, who cares!!! They are Goodyear RS-S's and I will change them by 20K anyway.

RC-PILOT

We got a new alignment machine at the shop. It's only about a month old. I looked up these specs today. I called my guy at Toyota and they sent me what is posted in the first post, but it's in mm &/or inches. Alignment specs are most always in degrees, so I thought I would post the 2008 & 2009 GEN2 specs. That way if you are in a town that is not up to date on the newest specs, you can print this out and take it to them for them to work off of. I hope this helps, but it will still only be close if you have lowered the vehicle or changed the offset of your wheels. Good luck out there.....let me know if this helps.

One suggestion would be to go get the 3 different cam bolts from Toyota and have them ready for the alignment guy. He will be able to set the camber & the toe, but will need the cam bolts to get it all done. It will save you time in the long run. I would get 2 of each of the 3 cam bolts (6 total), cary this sheet and the 6 bolts to the local alignment guy and get-r-done.