Tanabe NF210's or DF210's??
10-01-2014, 08:10 PM
#1
Tanabe NF210's or DF210's??
I have a 2011 xB and i want to lower it a bit. It is my daily driver and I don't want any issues with rubbing or anything.
Currently, I am on a set of Dragg DR-33 rims wrapped in Khumo 225/45/16's. From what I have read here before, I should not have any issues with the NF's; but, if i want to go to DF's, will i get any rubbing issues? or will I run into needing a camber kit? Also, should I change my shocks as well (im at about 45k miles)?
Finally, I live in an apartment with a small garage and, most likely, not the correct tools to make this an easy job. Does anyone know of any good places in the Long Beach, CA area that would install for a good price? or even anyone near Long Beach, CA that would offer a helping hand?
If I am missing any other important info, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Currently, I am on a set of Dragg DR-33 rims wrapped in Khumo 225/45/16's. From what I have read here before, I should not have any issues with the NF's; but, if i want to go to DF's, will i get any rubbing issues? or will I run into needing a camber kit? Also, should I change my shocks as well (im at about 45k miles)?
Finally, I live in an apartment with a small garage and, most likely, not the correct tools to make this an easy job. Does anyone know of any good places in the Long Beach, CA area that would install for a good price? or even anyone near Long Beach, CA that would offer a helping hand?
If I am missing any other important info, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
10-16-2014, 10:48 PM
#3
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 120
I'm currently on 225/45/17's with NF210's and it looks and feels great. You shouldn't have problems with the DF210 rubbing, but I personally don't like them (changes the handling too much for a comfortable daily driver).
To do the front springs correctly you'll need a set of spring compressors, an impact capable of 177ft/lbs of torque (technically optional but helps a TON), and a torque wrench. It's not a particularly difficult job, but it can be frustrating for a first timer or someone without a comfortable work area and tool set. The rear springs can actually be done with a couple of wrenches and a jack - you don't even need to remove the wheels. I know that the local tire place here charges $45 a side to install struts and springs, and frankly it's worth it since you can do the rear yourself in a few minutes.
The front end is adjustable enough to be aligned with either NF210's or DF210's without any modifications. The rear end is not adjustable, and you'll likely run into toe problems. A lot of people don't ever act on it, but even lowering with NF210's is likely going to add anywhere from 0.10-0.20 of positive toe on each of the rear wheels, which will dramatically increase tire wear. The only way to fix this is to shim the rear hub with 1/64th spacers (1/32 will be too dramatic and might throw you into negative toe, which is bad for the rear). Shimming the rear is a DIY job if you have some patience and some basic tools. Here's a rough guide for a Prius (different car but same principle)
Anyway, here's the rundown:
1. Order your springs (NF210 or DF210, whatever is fine)
2. Install your rear springs
3. Either pay someone or self-install your front springs
4. Get an alignment
5. Shim the rear if your toe is terrible
6. Have your alignment re-checked
7. Enjoy
Edit: forgot to answer your shock question.
* I would highly recommend replacing your front struts even if they aren't technically needed yet, as replacing struts will require paying for an alignment (which you are going to need with the springs anyway), and you can get replacement KYB struts from amazon for around $60 each shipped. Also, get new boots (bellows)! A dead boot = premature strut failure and lots of noise. They're around $25 each and are dealer only parts.
* The rear shocks don't seem to wear out. I pulled mine out after 50k miles (some towing, lowering different heights, etc.) and they were as good as new. Also you can't just buy these from a parts store (or at least you couldn't as of a year ago) so they are a dealer only part. I'd recommend making sure they compress and expand as expected, but don't plan on replacing them.
To do the front springs correctly you'll need a set of spring compressors, an impact capable of 177ft/lbs of torque (technically optional but helps a TON), and a torque wrench. It's not a particularly difficult job, but it can be frustrating for a first timer or someone without a comfortable work area and tool set. The rear springs can actually be done with a couple of wrenches and a jack - you don't even need to remove the wheels. I know that the local tire place here charges $45 a side to install struts and springs, and frankly it's worth it since you can do the rear yourself in a few minutes.
The front end is adjustable enough to be aligned with either NF210's or DF210's without any modifications. The rear end is not adjustable, and you'll likely run into toe problems. A lot of people don't ever act on it, but even lowering with NF210's is likely going to add anywhere from 0.10-0.20 of positive toe on each of the rear wheels, which will dramatically increase tire wear. The only way to fix this is to shim the rear hub with 1/64th spacers (1/32 will be too dramatic and might throw you into negative toe, which is bad for the rear). Shimming the rear is a DIY job if you have some patience and some basic tools. Here's a rough guide for a Prius (different car but same principle)
Anyway, here's the rundown:
1. Order your springs (NF210 or DF210, whatever is fine)
2. Install your rear springs
3. Either pay someone or self-install your front springs
4. Get an alignment
5. Shim the rear if your toe is terrible
6. Have your alignment re-checked
7. Enjoy
Edit: forgot to answer your shock question.
* I would highly recommend replacing your front struts even if they aren't technically needed yet, as replacing struts will require paying for an alignment (which you are going to need with the springs anyway), and you can get replacement KYB struts from amazon for around $60 each shipped. Also, get new boots (bellows)! A dead boot = premature strut failure and lots of noise. They're around $25 each and are dealer only parts.
* The rear shocks don't seem to wear out. I pulled mine out after 50k miles (some towing, lowering different heights, etc.) and they were as good as new. Also you can't just buy these from a parts store (or at least you couldn't as of a year ago) so they are a dealer only part. I'd recommend making sure they compress and expand as expected, but don't plan on replacing them.
Last edited by k1114; 10-16-2014 at 10:59 PM.
10-23-2014, 03:07 AM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Gastonia, NC
Posts: 14
My boss drives an '09 xB that has 419k miles on it and is still running the factory original struts/shocks at all four corners. It still rides great and isn't noisy. It's mostly highway miles, but I'm still impressed that the struts don't act worn out and don't leak from the strut seals. You'd think the strut mounts would have at least worn out around 200k, but so far, so good!
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