Installing TRD lowering springs...
#1
Installing TRD lowering springs...
I just picked up a set of TRD lowering springs and I think I'm going to attempt the install job myself...
I got install directions and have looked at the DIY and it looks fairly easy...
A few questions though:
1) on the TRD install directions that came with the springs, it says under "Additional Items Required For Installation" that I need (4) Nut, front shock absorber- Toyota P/N 90179-12145.....why wouldn't the nuts that came off work? never said anything in the DIY's about extra hardware???
2) do I need to trim/cut the bump stop like some ppl say to do?
3) after installation of the new springs, i need an alignment, right?
4) would i be better off just having the dealer install and align at the same time?
thanks in advance!
I got install directions and have looked at the DIY and it looks fairly easy...
A few questions though:
1) on the TRD install directions that came with the springs, it says under "Additional Items Required For Installation" that I need (4) Nut, front shock absorber- Toyota P/N 90179-12145.....why wouldn't the nuts that came off work? never said anything in the DIY's about extra hardware???
2) do I need to trim/cut the bump stop like some ppl say to do?
3) after installation of the new springs, i need an alignment, right?
4) would i be better off just having the dealer install and align at the same time?
thanks in advance!
#2
1. you can re-use the old nuts if you want unless they are nylock nuts with nylon in them. If they have the nylon in them to prevent them from loosening, get new ones at the harware store.
2. its always a god idea to trim the bumpstops if you lower. if you're dropping the vehicle,. you want to retain the right amount of travel, which you wont have if you dont trim the bumpstops. it probly won't be a "big" deal since the trd springs are a mild drop, but personally i'de do it while everything is out and off the car.
3. yes, you will need an alighnment to make sure you are still within spec. best to wait 2-3 weeks for the springs to settle though first, unless you have some major pull left ot right following the install.
4. you can do the install in your garage or drive way in about an hour... its easy. if you are made of money, you can have the dealer do it, but better to save your $ and spend on more mods.. also if the dealer does the alignment right after the install, the springs will settle over the next few weeks, and you'll want to get another alighnment done after that anyway. do the easy stuff yourself whenever you can, spend money on the things you can't do in your driveway.
2. its always a god idea to trim the bumpstops if you lower. if you're dropping the vehicle,. you want to retain the right amount of travel, which you wont have if you dont trim the bumpstops. it probly won't be a "big" deal since the trd springs are a mild drop, but personally i'de do it while everything is out and off the car.
3. yes, you will need an alighnment to make sure you are still within spec. best to wait 2-3 weeks for the springs to settle though first, unless you have some major pull left ot right following the install.
4. you can do the install in your garage or drive way in about an hour... its easy. if you are made of money, you can have the dealer do it, but better to save your $ and spend on more mods.. also if the dealer does the alignment right after the install, the springs will settle over the next few weeks, and you'll want to get another alighnment done after that anyway. do the easy stuff yourself whenever you can, spend money on the things you can't do in your driveway.
#3
You don't need the extra parts. You are fine reusing the nut. You don't need to replace the front shock absorber unless it's bad.
You don't need to cut the bump stop since the drop isn't going to be more than 2".
You do need an alignment but not right after the swap. Wait a week til the spring settles.
Dealer will rape you in labor. Not worth taking to dealer. Same with the alignment.
You don't need to cut the bump stop since the drop isn't going to be more than 2".
You do need an alignment but not right after the swap. Wait a week til the spring settles.
Dealer will rape you in labor. Not worth taking to dealer. Same with the alignment.
#4
hey thanks for the replies, guys! yeah, i'll end up doin' this tomorrow myself...goin to get an alignment after the springs settle in, and save the cash
still, i think i'll chop the bump stops even tho it's only an inch and a half of drop, just to be safe...
still, i think i'll chop the bump stops even tho it's only an inch and a half of drop, just to be safe...
#5
i used the nf210s, and never cut my bump stops. ive never bottomed out even with 4 people in the car on rough roads. and even though the amount of travel is reduced by leaving the bumpstops uncut, a firmer spring should reduce the amount the suspension travels overall when you do go over a bump, unless you hit a REALLY big bump. and in that case, i would rather hit the bump stops than my tire hitting the fender. i guess you just need to decide what risk you want to take, lol.
#7
well, while i said yesterday that i was going to tackle the spring install today....i have decided to postpone the install till after a road trip i plan on taking in a week and a half.
seeing that if i did the install now, i wouldn't have enough time to wear in the springs and get a proper alignment...
so the install job is on the back burner until I'm back from Buffalo, NY!
seeing that if i did the install now, i wouldn't have enough time to wear in the springs and get a proper alignment...
so the install job is on the back burner until I'm back from Buffalo, NY!
#8
i've cut my bumpstops when i installed my springs (progress tech) and i've never bottomed out / hit bump stops. most people wont, but i figure just in case.... might as well do it right the first time.
Good luck on your trip, and good luck tackeling the springs when you return
Good luck on your trip, and good luck tackeling the springs when you return
#10
Nuts not necessary (they are NOT nylon) I did buy the new nuts, but after close exam, I could NOT understand why the specified a new part.
Do not cut the stops. No reason unless you are doing a RIDICULOUS drop.
Align after a few weeks. The dealer WILL show that your car started way out of spec. They will get the front into spec, but the rear can only be adjusted a bit and will STILL be out of spec when finished.
Do not cut the stops. No reason unless you are doing a RIDICULOUS drop.
Align after a few weeks. The dealer WILL show that your car started way out of spec. They will get the front into spec, but the rear can only be adjusted a bit and will STILL be out of spec when finished.
#11
well guys,
i'm back from buffalo. the trip was great! went up thru the mountains of north carolina, west virginia, western PA....scenic and beautiful drive....came back via I-95...not so pretty but still fun in the xD! whole trip, which included some city driving, i averaged 38.5 mpg! diggin' that!
i just got my windows tinted today.....my BSP looks so much better all blacked out! i'm thinkin about attempting the install tomorrow....although i'm concerned about a possible void of the warranty...
i bought my car thru Courtesy Toyota/Scion which is a member of the AutoNation dealership group...they offer Lifetime Warranty for the original owners which covers all mechanical parts above and beyond the terms of the factory warranty...I need to find out before I attempt this job if that will void it or not or how that works...
i'm back from buffalo. the trip was great! went up thru the mountains of north carolina, west virginia, western PA....scenic and beautiful drive....came back via I-95...not so pretty but still fun in the xD! whole trip, which included some city driving, i averaged 38.5 mpg! diggin' that!
i just got my windows tinted today.....my BSP looks so much better all blacked out! i'm thinkin about attempting the install tomorrow....although i'm concerned about a possible void of the warranty...
i bought my car thru Courtesy Toyota/Scion which is a member of the AutoNation dealership group...they offer Lifetime Warranty for the original owners which covers all mechanical parts above and beyond the terms of the factory warranty...I need to find out before I attempt this job if that will void it or not or how that works...
#12
UPDATE: I just got off the phone with the stealership...in order to not void the lifetime warranty, i have to take it to the shop for the install, which is $350!!! which includes the alignment, but still, that sux *****....oh well, looks like i'm shelling out the cash to keep the warranty valid
#13
You gotta remembwe thought that they are charging you $350 because they are doing the alignment.
I did mine myself on my old Yaris and then took them off to put them on my new one. You can rent a spring compressor (external) for $50 at AutoZone. All it really is is a security deposit which you get back when you return them.
You don't need to cut the bumpstops either. I had cut them on my old Yaris because I had the DF210's and they bottomed out, but I wanted a stiffer ride and switched to the TRD's. Still bottomed out running with the same 17x7 +40. When I installed them onto my new ones, didn't cut the bumpstops due to the fact that the drop wasn't as low as the 210's and I've had no problem since.
(If you haven't guessed it, our suspension is the same for those that are wondering why I'm replying to this)
I did mine myself on my old Yaris and then took them off to put them on my new one. You can rent a spring compressor (external) for $50 at AutoZone. All it really is is a security deposit which you get back when you return them.
You don't need to cut the bumpstops either. I had cut them on my old Yaris because I had the DF210's and they bottomed out, but I wanted a stiffer ride and switched to the TRD's. Still bottomed out running with the same 17x7 +40. When I installed them onto my new ones, didn't cut the bumpstops due to the fact that the drop wasn't as low as the 210's and I've had no problem since.
(If you haven't guessed it, our suspension is the same for those that are wondering why I'm replying to this)
#14
When Lowering the vehicle yourself, you void all warranties on the Vehicle that have to do with Suspension, Struts, Shocks, Alignment etc. It is Pricey to have the dealership do it. They Quoted me 1,300.00 Dollars for Installation on Front and Rear, that does not include the parts.
I found the TRD Lowering Springs online from a dealer back east. They are 195.00 +Tax. Way cheaper than going through any dealer direct. It was cheaper than getting the Lowering Kit at Wholesale. My Parents own a repair shop and the local dealership wanted to charge over 400.00 for the kit.
The Website for the TRD Lowering Springs, and other parts is ScionPartsPeople.com
I found the TRD Lowering Springs online from a dealer back east. They are 195.00 +Tax. Way cheaper than going through any dealer direct. It was cheaper than getting the Lowering Kit at Wholesale. My Parents own a repair shop and the local dealership wanted to charge over 400.00 for the kit.
The Website for the TRD Lowering Springs, and other parts is ScionPartsPeople.com
Last edited by lovestarbucks; 03-12-2015 at 08:44 PM.
#15
I just got done replacing my stock struts and shocks on my 2008 RS 1, they were toast, absolutely no return whatsoever. Now I am ordering new springs-the TRD lowering springs that came stock on our cars are shot as well. 100,000 mies and I can compress them by hand! Going to go with the Megan racing springs in hopes of stiffening things up a bit. Can't believe it is all going at once-oh and my clear coat is peeling like a teenager in Fort Lauderdale during spring break. Sucks getting old.
Last edited by releaseme; 02-25-2017 at 12:10 AM.
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