Spark Plug Change
Member
SL Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 69
I made an executive decision and torqued them to 13lbs. I was surprised to see how loose they were. I had about another turn in each plug to get them there.
BTW. with a "click" type torque wrench, do you stop when you hear the first slight click??
BTW. with a "click" type torque wrench, do you stop when you hear the first slight click??
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
From: FRESNO CA.
TORQUE
Originally Posted by Tobo22
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 601
From: Milpitas, CA
get iridiums (stock tCs already have them..so i heard) im going to swap mine out and give it to my dad =p. theres only 1k miles on it so it should have 59k miles to go.
really easy to do then most cars.
dont really need a spark plug remover my friend uses a rubber tube to get a hold of it. works like a charm.
get iridiums or double platinum so you dont have to gap it. and you'll feel the difference.
really easy to do then most cars.
dont really need a spark plug remover my friend uses a rubber tube to get a hold of it. works like a charm.
get iridiums or double platinum so you dont have to gap it. and you'll feel the difference.
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 131
From: Beaverton
SPARK PLUGS REPLACEMENT
By: Brian
This is my spark plug change on a 2004 xA. It had NGK V-power plugs and I replaced them with the same. $7 for 4 spark plugs at local auto-part stores.
Tools used:
-10mm socket w/wrench,
- 5/8 inch (16mm) spark plug wrench
- Torque wrench w/ 6 inch extension and 16mm socket
- Plug/shim gap measureing tool
Plus:
-4X NGK -bkr5eya
- 1 pack high temp anti-seize
1. I started with a cool engine. Used the 10mm socket to remove the engine covers 4 nuts
2. Under the engine cover I used a brush and towel to clean away dirt and debrit so it wouldn't be falling down the spark plug wells. Then I used the 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the coil packs/boots down.
3. Once all the bolts were out I did one replacement at a time. I removed the first boot from the plug by giving it a twist and pulling it off the plug. (if there isn't enough slack in the wire to pull it out, you can disconnect the clip)
4. With that out you can see down to the plug
You can insert the spark plug wrench and unscrew the plug counter clockwise
-or-
if it's stuck you can use a wrench (torque wrench in pic) and the 16mm socket on an extension to break it loose.
5. Once it's unscrewed the plug will stay in the plug wrench (if equipped with rubber grommet) and you can lift it right out. If you aren't using a plug wrench you can use a small section of hose to push down on the end of the plug or some other imagenative device.
6. Inspect the old spark plug. Here are some examples of what to look for. Here's a side-by-side of the old and new plug. Notice the rounded electrode on the old plug and the slightly larger gap.
7. Check the gap on the new plugs. (old plug shown)
It should be 0.032 in. If it is bigger you can tap the plug on the electrode to close in the gap
-or-
if the gap is too small you can CAREFULLY pry it open some.
8. Coat the threads of the plug with antiseize. This will help on your next change and keep the plugs from getting seized up in the engine.
9. Now you can put the new plug in. Lower it doen into the hole. Start by turning the wrench counter-clockwise till you feel the threads "pop" a little (that's the starting point of the threads fitting correctly) then turn the wrench clockwise to screw the plug in. If you feel much resistance, unscrew the plug and start over. This is to keep you from "cross-threading" the plug (very bad) and forcing it in where it will almost definately get seized in the engine ( very pricey to fix).
*** another trick for beginners is to use a small section of hose. Fit it on the top of the plug and use it in place of the wrench to screw the plug in.
If the threads start to cross the hose will slip around the plug instead of forcing it in.
10. Once the plug is screwed in you can use the torque wrench to tighten it to 13 ft lbs
-or-
after it's hand-tight tighten it 1/2 a turn more.
11. Put the boot back in and onto the plug.
12. Put the 10mm bolt back in to hold the coil pack/boot down
-13. Repeat steps 1-12 on the remaing plugs and put the engine cover back on.
Should only take about 15-30 minutes.
Faster than an oil change, cheaper than an oil change, yet so often neglected
By: Brian
This is my spark plug change on a 2004 xA. It had NGK V-power plugs and I replaced them with the same. $7 for 4 spark plugs at local auto-part stores.
Tools used:
-10mm socket w/wrench,
- 5/8 inch (16mm) spark plug wrench
- Torque wrench w/ 6 inch extension and 16mm socket
- Plug/shim gap measureing tool
Plus:
-4X NGK -bkr5eya
- 1 pack high temp anti-seize
1. I started with a cool engine. Used the 10mm socket to remove the engine covers 4 nuts
2. Under the engine cover I used a brush and towel to clean away dirt and debrit so it wouldn't be falling down the spark plug wells. Then I used the 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the coil packs/boots down.
3. Once all the bolts were out I did one replacement at a time. I removed the first boot from the plug by giving it a twist and pulling it off the plug. (if there isn't enough slack in the wire to pull it out, you can disconnect the clip)
4. With that out you can see down to the plug
You can insert the spark plug wrench and unscrew the plug counter clockwise
-or-
if it's stuck you can use a wrench (torque wrench in pic) and the 16mm socket on an extension to break it loose.
5. Once it's unscrewed the plug will stay in the plug wrench (if equipped with rubber grommet) and you can lift it right out. If you aren't using a plug wrench you can use a small section of hose to push down on the end of the plug or some other imagenative device.
6. Inspect the old spark plug. Here are some examples of what to look for. Here's a side-by-side of the old and new plug. Notice the rounded electrode on the old plug and the slightly larger gap.
7. Check the gap on the new plugs. (old plug shown)
It should be 0.032 in. If it is bigger you can tap the plug on the electrode to close in the gap
-or-
if the gap is too small you can CAREFULLY pry it open some.
8. Coat the threads of the plug with antiseize. This will help on your next change and keep the plugs from getting seized up in the engine.
9. Now you can put the new plug in. Lower it doen into the hole. Start by turning the wrench counter-clockwise till you feel the threads "pop" a little (that's the starting point of the threads fitting correctly) then turn the wrench clockwise to screw the plug in. If you feel much resistance, unscrew the plug and start over. This is to keep you from "cross-threading" the plug (very bad) and forcing it in where it will almost definately get seized in the engine ( very pricey to fix).
*** another trick for beginners is to use a small section of hose. Fit it on the top of the plug and use it in place of the wrench to screw the plug in.
If the threads start to cross the hose will slip around the plug instead of forcing it in.
10. Once the plug is screwed in you can use the torque wrench to tighten it to 13 ft lbs
-or-
after it's hand-tight tighten it 1/2 a turn more.
11. Put the boot back in and onto the plug.
12. Put the 10mm bolt back in to hold the coil pack/boot down
-13. Repeat steps 1-12 on the remaing plugs and put the engine cover back on.
Should only take about 15-30 minutes.
Faster than an oil change, cheaper than an oil change, yet so often neglected
Thanks for going thru al lthe work of writing this and posting pics. Made my 1st time a lot easier. Seeings as I have not been able to find a Repair manual for this your numbers were a great help. Thanks you again
Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 30
From: Scottsdale, AZ
My grandpa was a mechanic in the army for 10 years, got out, and went to work for GM and retired through them. So I like to think of him as my expert advice 
. He always taught me to hand tighten spark plugs and we have never had any issues.
. He always taught me to hand tighten spark plugs and we have never had any issues.
Last edited by Kyle480; Apr 23, 2010 at 05:55 PM. Reason: spelling
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 47
From: Metro Detroit
Hey.
I wanted to thank you as your clear instructions gave me no excuse not to change my plugs. Took me all of a half hour even with the hassle of having an upper-strut tie bar. The old plugs are pictured in the dictionary under "please change at once". Little black nubs were what I found. Thanks again.
2005 Scion Xa Burgundy 5-speed (never auto)
Empi wheels, Alpine stereo, sunroof, upperstrut tie-bag, massive rear sway bar, foglights and with 72k still looks close to new.
I wanted to thank you as your clear instructions gave me no excuse not to change my plugs. Took me all of a half hour even with the hassle of having an upper-strut tie bar. The old plugs are pictured in the dictionary under "please change at once". Little black nubs were what I found. Thanks again.
2005 Scion Xa Burgundy 5-speed (never auto)
Empi wheels, Alpine stereo, sunroof, upperstrut tie-bag, massive rear sway bar, foglights and with 72k still looks close to new.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1
From: Imperial, MO
You can buy Denso Iridium Plug for $7.62 at rockauto.com and Denso Iridium Long Life for $9.90. I have called two Scion service departments about using a higher grade plug. Both of them said that I should not, because in there parts book it does not list more than one spark plug for the Scion 2006 Xb. They said if other higher grade spark plugs could be used it usually lists them. Both of them said by using a higher grade spark plug that I COULD scorch the piston heads, because of the higher temp the higher grade spark plugs make. Has anybody else heard about this? I live in the St. Louis area. I wanted to get the higher grade spark plugs, but bought the Denso K16ru for $1.40 each at rockauto.com
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,735
You can buy Denso Iridium Plug for $7.62 at rockauto.com and Denso Iridium Long Life for $9.90. I have called two Scion service departments about using a higher grade plug. Both of them said that I should not, because in there parts book it does not list more than one spark plug for the Scion 2006 Xb. They said if other higher grade spark plugs could be used it usually lists them. Both of them said by using a higher grade spark plug that I COULD scorch the piston heads, because of the higher temp the higher grade spark plugs make. Has anybody else heard about this? I live in the St. Louis area. I wanted to get the higher grade spark plugs, but bought the Denso K16ru for $1.40 each at rockauto.com
NGK 6341 (OEM)
Denso K16R
NKG Iridium BKR5EIX
NKG Iridium BKR5EIX-11 pregapped to 44
Denso Iridium IK16
NKG Platinum BKR5EGP
At 30,000 miles I installed NKG BKR5EIX-11 Iridium plugs, pre-gapped to .044, in my 2006 xB, which now has 41,000 miles with no problem.
It is not possible for a spark plug to scorch a piston head. All spark plugs make a tiny spark, an insignificant source of heat compared to combustion of the mixture.
Nor can piston heads be scorched. If run long and hard with mixture that is too lean, and/or ignition timing too advanced, enough heat can be produced to melt a hole in the top of the piston. The ECU in modern engines does not allow these things to happen.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1
Don't know why I waited so long!
I changed the plugs in my Scion Xa when my gas mileage no longer was consistantly getting 40 mph. It dropped off to around 32mph almost over night. At 88,000 miles its first plug change, they were at 62 thousands when I pulled them, no wonder. Back to my 40 mph and wish I would have bought 2 of them when I bought it new, no regrets yet.
Old Classic
Old Classic
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
Thanks ECHO_B!
Just wanted to say thanks for posting this instructional.
I've NEVER tried to do maintenance on my car (short of air-filter, battery, easy stuff--FOR ME).
Recently my SCION XB had the Check Engine, VRS & Trac Off lights come on and began stuttering at stops, early acceleration and when in reverse.
I found these instructions and followed them to the letter with the exception of the gaping of the spark-plugs.
When buying my supplies (as I've NEVER done this before) at my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store, the employee (who had 20 years under his belt) sold me a set of NGK 7090 spark-plugs and said that he'd made the mistake of gaping the ones he put in his wife's car. "Big mistake", he said. "Within a short time, the plugs were burned out."
With the recommendation of NGK, he put a new set in "As-Is" and they worked out great.
So, after I got it all back together, all I had to do was pull and re-seat the battery cable and the lights all went out. Car's running great again!
Thanks, man!
I've NEVER tried to do maintenance on my car (short of air-filter, battery, easy stuff--FOR ME).
Recently my SCION XB had the Check Engine, VRS & Trac Off lights come on and began stuttering at stops, early acceleration and when in reverse.
I found these instructions and followed them to the letter with the exception of the gaping of the spark-plugs.
When buying my supplies (as I've NEVER done this before) at my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store, the employee (who had 20 years under his belt) sold me a set of NGK 7090 spark-plugs and said that he'd made the mistake of gaping the ones he put in his wife's car. "Big mistake", he said. "Within a short time, the plugs were burned out."
With the recommendation of NGK, he put a new set in "As-Is" and they worked out great.
So, after I got it all back together, all I had to do was pull and re-seat the battery cable and the lights all went out. Car's running great again!
Thanks, man!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 28
All right - I must add.
I learned that you never gap plugs with valve feeler gauges. Those are the flat bladed & are used to set valve clearance. You use a spark plug gap tool (google it to see what it looks like). It has wires for determining the gap & a slotted tool to aid in setting the gap. I take this as an article of faith, like never using a crescent wrench for anything. While we're at it, you should get 6-point sockets unless you like rounded nuts.
As an aside, the tC owners manual says not to even mess with the gap. Ours is almost to the 120,000 mile mark when plug change is recommended. (originals are .7 iridium)
I learned that you never gap plugs with valve feeler gauges. Those are the flat bladed & are used to set valve clearance. You use a spark plug gap tool (google it to see what it looks like). It has wires for determining the gap & a slotted tool to aid in setting the gap. I take this as an article of faith, like never using a crescent wrench for anything. While we're at it, you should get 6-point sockets unless you like rounded nuts.
As an aside, the tC owners manual says not to even mess with the gap. Ours is almost to the 120,000 mile mark when plug change is recommended. (originals are .7 iridium)
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 131
Went from ngk v-power to ngk iridium ix to ngk g power platinum in my xA using this guide.
IX doesn't really do much for my xA. Engine seems lazy to rev up.
on G Power, revs up easily and fast. engine feels like it wants to run to higher rpms with just a light touch of the pedal. ix, feels like it's on ecomodding mode, slower to rev up.
All on default gaps.
Since all three are not 100000 mile plugs, I'd say save money and go with G or V power sparks cheap and change every 20000 to 30000 miles, else, find and use 100000 platinums.
IX doesn't really do much for my xA. Engine seems lazy to rev up.
on G Power, revs up easily and fast. engine feels like it wants to run to higher rpms with just a light touch of the pedal. ix, feels like it's on ecomodding mode, slower to rev up.
All on default gaps.
Since all three are not 100000 mile plugs, I'd say save money and go with G or V power sparks cheap and change every 20000 to 30000 miles, else, find and use 100000 platinums.
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