Early oil change... Dealership says not a good idea
Well you are right and wrong. If the car is brand new and past it's 5K mark and has had at least two changes, then yes anything before 5K is a waste of cash.
But as stated, if the car is new, I recommend at least a 1500 mile change & another at 5K. I cut open filters all the time and if you see the crap a new engine puts out even when babied, it is scary. I for one do not want that going back through the engine especially if the bypass opens at slightly higher rpm. Just wear and tear that is not needed.
But as stated, if the car is new, I recommend at least a 1500 mile change & another at 5K. I cut open filters all the time and if you see the crap a new engine puts out even when babied, it is scary. I for one do not want that going back through the engine especially if the bypass opens at slightly higher rpm. Just wear and tear that is not needed.
That's why you run the dog ____ out of it for less than 100 miles. The rings should be seated by then, and the shavings should still be at a minimum.
As for intervals, I think it costs $275 for an oil change on my car, so i'm going to go as long as I can get away with!
Just kidding, i'd change it myself for that. It uses cartridges as well. The maintenance reminder says I should change in 900 more miles, so we'll be seeing then.
As for intervals, I think it costs $275 for an oil change on my car, so i'm going to go as long as I can get away with!
Just kidding, i'd change it myself for that. It uses cartridges as well. The maintenance reminder says I should change in 900 more miles, so we'll be seeing then.
Seems there is no shortage of opinions on the subject... however so far I don't think anyone has echoed the message from my dealership to "build up some grit" and help seat everything...
BTW here's the skinny on how I have driven so far.
The first 20 miles was over a steep grade back and forth near my hose pshing it up throgh the gears. No WOT and nothing over 4000rpm but accelerating reasonably the whole way. Lots of engine braking on the way down and dring crests. I figure this put decent back pressure on the rings.
The next 200 miles was agressive but careful accelerating around town (with one accidental stint up to 90 mph on the freeway - this car accelerates a lot faster and smoother than my previous and caught me off guard). Basically I would accelerate faster than need be every time and engine brake all the stops.
Then I put on a few hundred miles of steep grade and uinfortunately level freeway. The freeway I didn't hold steady rpms long and kept it under 65. The grade was I believe about 6000 ft (up to tahoe from sacramento) pretty steady grade. I kept the acceleration a bit heavy and figure the grade worked the engine plenty hard. Again nothing past 4000rpms with a few exceptions here and there for short periods.
If that much hard accelerating and running in hasn't ground down the piston rings I hate to think what it will take to do it.
Any grit in my engine I don't understand how can help seat rings... if anything they will cause grooves and scratches that, after the grit is gone, will be make for a bad seal.
So the way I see it, any crap that is floating around in there (especially shavings and paint chips) I don't think can be beneficial and probably just want out. If I change at 800 and then take the next at 5000 I will have to pay for my 10k (I will want to take it in for my free rotation)...
Does that logic sound wrong to anyone? Wasting money isn't a big concern for me as it's 1 extra oil change in the first 10k miles... that's like $50 at the dealership (I know robbery) but no real biggy. At 10k I plan to go synthetic and ride it 6 or 7k between changes anyway.
BTW here's the skinny on how I have driven so far.
The first 20 miles was over a steep grade back and forth near my hose pshing it up throgh the gears. No WOT and nothing over 4000rpm but accelerating reasonably the whole way. Lots of engine braking on the way down and dring crests. I figure this put decent back pressure on the rings.
The next 200 miles was agressive but careful accelerating around town (with one accidental stint up to 90 mph on the freeway - this car accelerates a lot faster and smoother than my previous and caught me off guard). Basically I would accelerate faster than need be every time and engine brake all the stops.
Then I put on a few hundred miles of steep grade and uinfortunately level freeway. The freeway I didn't hold steady rpms long and kept it under 65. The grade was I believe about 6000 ft (up to tahoe from sacramento) pretty steady grade. I kept the acceleration a bit heavy and figure the grade worked the engine plenty hard. Again nothing past 4000rpms with a few exceptions here and there for short periods.
If that much hard accelerating and running in hasn't ground down the piston rings I hate to think what it will take to do it.
Any grit in my engine I don't understand how can help seat rings... if anything they will cause grooves and scratches that, after the grit is gone, will be make for a bad seal.
So the way I see it, any crap that is floating around in there (especially shavings and paint chips) I don't think can be beneficial and probably just want out. If I change at 800 and then take the next at 5000 I will have to pay for my 10k (I will want to take it in for my free rotation)...
Does that logic sound wrong to anyone? Wasting money isn't a big concern for me as it's 1 extra oil change in the first 10k miles... that's like $50 at the dealership (I know robbery) but no real biggy. At 10k I plan to go synthetic and ride it 6 or 7k between changes anyway.
Originally Posted by nodsetse
^Yep, sounds reasonable to me. 800mi or less is fine for the 1st change imo, in order to get any of the "new engine grit" out of the motor. Go for it!
its your car do what u want
i think its useless to change your oil at 800 miles because 1, your oil filter filters out any tiny metal particles that go through your engine and 2, you're super paranoid and care way tooo much about your car
Actually the filter does NOT filter out all particles. A lot of the oil is bypassed around the filter especially on mid to higher rpm runs so particles may pass through the engine several times before being captured. The only time this is any kind of an issue is with a brand spanking new engine that is being broken in. After the first two changes, the amount of crap is so low that it no longer matters & you can change the oil at whatever point is specified. But of course it is your cars, feel free to do whatever you like
Originally Posted by jdubb123
Originally Posted by nodsetse
^Yep, sounds reasonable to me. 800mi or less is fine for the 1st change imo, in order to get any of the "new engine grit" out of the motor. Go for it!
its your car do what u want
Following that, I think most people agree and change the same as you, at 5-6k.
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