200000 mile club
#5
#7
racrboy, I feel ur pain on the tires.I'm commuting about 800 miles a week and go thru about a 1-1/2 sets of tires per year. I've tried many brands and never made much difference.Now,I just go with cheapo tires right now i'm riding FALKEN-OHTSU FP7000, not a bad tire for 67$.Do u have a mt or at?
#8
Manual here. I currently am running a BFG, but the road noise is killer... Thank God the first thing I did was put in my Alpine system. It helps to numb the pain.
Currently doing the 100k song and dance, serp belt, all fluids, rotors, brake lines. Probably just for piece of mind more than anything else. But those tires......
Currently doing the 100k song and dance, serp belt, all fluids, rotors, brake lines. Probably just for piece of mind more than anything else. But those tires......
#10
Just thought about another repair I had(and how could i forget). Broke 2 motor mounts one of them being the lower rear,and I don't have the words to describe how big of a pita it was. During my last clutch job I modified that (insert any bad words u can think of here) by welding nuts on the top side of it, made it much easier to get it back on.
#15
wow 275k and the suspension "Decided" to go.. lol. That's a good, long time on the original! When did it really decided to go? What mileage?
And alignment, I've found rotating the tires at 2500 miles helped a lot in slowing down the wear! I've had Toyo, Pirelli, BFG, Yokohama, Nitto. Most of them were saying rotate them at 3500miles but I went with a lower number 2500 miles and the wear is a lot better! A good alignment doesn't hurt either.
What I found was something interesting. A lot will/could debate it with me but here goes. I found that the places that have an alignment rack on an adjustable scissors-type lift is not as accurate as the ones that have the rack in a pit. The pit type is non-adjustable and it seems that when the techs calibrate the alignment computer those distances are always the same to the lane, where on a scissors lift it can vary. I know I'll get people who argue it but do a little calculus IV (differential equations) with trigonometric functions over time and then see how those slight differences in distance can cause the alignment computer to compensate. Sure to the computer it's "close" but not EXACT.
So when I've gotten the alignment at a place that had a fixed rack (aka pit) the alignments have been much much better.. just passing it along!
congrats on your mileage!
And alignment, I've found rotating the tires at 2500 miles helped a lot in slowing down the wear! I've had Toyo, Pirelli, BFG, Yokohama, Nitto. Most of them were saying rotate them at 3500miles but I went with a lower number 2500 miles and the wear is a lot better! A good alignment doesn't hurt either.
What I found was something interesting. A lot will/could debate it with me but here goes. I found that the places that have an alignment rack on an adjustable scissors-type lift is not as accurate as the ones that have the rack in a pit. The pit type is non-adjustable and it seems that when the techs calibrate the alignment computer those distances are always the same to the lane, where on a scissors lift it can vary. I know I'll get people who argue it but do a little calculus IV (differential equations) with trigonometric functions over time and then see how those slight differences in distance can cause the alignment computer to compensate. Sure to the computer it's "close" but not EXACT.
So when I've gotten the alignment at a place that had a fixed rack (aka pit) the alignments have been much much better.. just passing it along!
congrats on your mileage!
#16
not "decided to go" but "gone" lol. To be honest I don't know how long the struts have been blown....long time for sure.It doesn't ride bumpy though the problem is the body roll and the rear springs have sagged so much in the 7 years that the rear alignment can't reach acceptable tolerances.Thanks for the alignment advice as soon as i get the new parts installed ill look for a fixed rack.
#17
Interesting that you guys have problems with tire wear. I just passed 110k in my 2009 and have never had any problem with tire wear. 45k miles out of the OEM bridgestones, then another 45k out of some cheap Fuzions. It has literally never been aligned since the factory, and I monitor and record tire wear with a caliper and never see abnormal or high wear. The Hankook V12 Evos I am running now are pretty aggressive tires so I watch the wear on those closely but after about 8k miles they are all within a quarter of a millimeter of tread, with one rotation at 6700 miles. I use some Toyo studless snow tires in the winter and it seems like I can't get those to wear at all, lol.
I just replaced the water pump today which was the first mechanical failure since new. I am even still on the original battery and brakes. I do keep up on maintenance and have done the belt, plugs, PCV, coolant, brake/clutch fluid, PS fluid, trans fluid, etc and I do frequent inspections.
Alignments tend to be very hit or miss. If you find a good alignment tech, latch on to him and never let him go because they are few and far between. A quality alignment often takes a lot longer than the 20 minutes that techs usually spend on it. You can spend hours on it if you want it really exact. I have never found it important to align after changing tires though. I think that is a myth that tire shops have started in order to pad their earnings. I can't see why changing tires and the car needing an alignment would be related and in practice I have never found that to be the case.
Far as the rear sagging goes, it is your shocks, not spring sag. All shocks have high pressure gas in them which causes some lifting force on the rear end. When the shock is blown, there is no more gas pressure, thus that end sags a little. Spring sag (or "metal creep" since it is a characteristic of all metals) happens over time, but it is not related to mileage. You see it on 30+ year old cars, but the oldest tC is only turning 10 this year. I would replace the rear shocks.
I just replaced the water pump today which was the first mechanical failure since new. I am even still on the original battery and brakes. I do keep up on maintenance and have done the belt, plugs, PCV, coolant, brake/clutch fluid, PS fluid, trans fluid, etc and I do frequent inspections.
Alignments tend to be very hit or miss. If you find a good alignment tech, latch on to him and never let him go because they are few and far between. A quality alignment often takes a lot longer than the 20 minutes that techs usually spend on it. You can spend hours on it if you want it really exact. I have never found it important to align after changing tires though. I think that is a myth that tire shops have started in order to pad their earnings. I can't see why changing tires and the car needing an alignment would be related and in practice I have never found that to be the case.
Far as the rear sagging goes, it is your shocks, not spring sag. All shocks have high pressure gas in them which causes some lifting force on the rear end. When the shock is blown, there is no more gas pressure, thus that end sags a little. Spring sag (or "metal creep" since it is a characteristic of all metals) happens over time, but it is not related to mileage. You see it on 30+ year old cars, but the oldest tC is only turning 10 this year. I would replace the rear shocks.
#19
i'm at 226,800...and last night my 2nd clutch went out as i got home from work..it runs great beside using a quart of oil every 600 miles.. used all weights and brands to try help it and no luck..i usually get around 60,000 out a set a tires...