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Cylinder Head Install

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Old 02-19-2014, 10:21 PM
  #21  
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Ok, so as of right now, I got the troublesome bolt removed and the PS pump is out of the way, All the bolts are out except for the E10 torx bolt, that's about 6 turns out then it comes to a dead stop, I ran it back in a few times but it just isn't coming out, the head is almost not usable at this point, I'll have to get another one from Toyota when I get the cover off.
So here's the problem, I have all bolts removed except for that one, I have the Cam Tensioner backed out but not completely out. I can get the cover to move a little bit toward the front of the car but the rear side by the firewall wont budge. I've rechecked everything twice and I don't see anything that could be holding it. I've tapped with a rubber mallet, I've used large flat blade drivers and even a tire iron, between the cover and the cam gears but it won't move...Any Ideas?? Or does that E10 bolt have to come out??
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:30 PM
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I see...well I tried to help, your in past my knowledge by memory, too bad this community isn't what it used to be...

Hopefully you figure it out man good luck
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Taintstick
I see...well I tried to help, your in past my knowledge by memory, too bad this community isn't what it used to be...

Hopefully you figure it out man good luck
Hey I appreciate any input. To bad the only place to get repair manuals now are from Toyota and they want $600 for the set, bunch of BS IMO. I found a link to a guy that had them on PDF for free Download, but Toyota found out about it and threatened to sue him I guess, so he took the link down.

Maybe someone from the DIY section will chime in, but as for no one really replying, I went to the TRD forums and I haven't gotten any replies from them either.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:56 AM
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You can get the complete repair manual set on ebay for around $300. I know it isn't free but at least its not $600...

I agree complete BS, repair manuals should come with the vehicle IMO, job security I guess.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:25 PM
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Job security.. yes. It's more or less, manufactures don't want clowns thinking they can do any repair job just because they have a step by step on how to do it. They would not only still have to do the repair, but then also fix all the stuff the person jacked up half way through the job before they realized they aren't qualified nor have the tools or skill set. Haha. That's why.

And Kik! You're flirtin' with that 10 day mark buddy! I think calling any Toyota dealership around the world and asking them what they do wouldn't be a bad idea. You can ask to talk to a mechanic. You know they do heads all the time and they'll know what you are going through. I've had dealership mechanics walk me throw plenty of stuff hahah. You just gotta find the right one to call whether it's three time zones away or right down the road.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:40 PM
  #26  
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Criminaltc, Yeah I know it's taking awhile. I do have another vehicle to drive so I'm not in a huge hurry, but I'd sure like to finish this. The truck I'm driving is 95 F250 4x4 with a 5.8L and I'm using about $20 a day in gas. This things a pig but it is reliable. Suppose to be sunny and about 30 tomorrow so I'll get back out there again.

Taint Stick, $300 is half the price but still too much, I just had to put another $400 out on new tires for the wifes car. I'm running kind of lean in the wallet area.

One more question for you guys. I know the 1.5 liter engines had to have the Alternator removed and the water pump removed before the cover would come off. Do the 2.4 liter have to do the same? According to everything I've seen I shouldn't have to remove those 2 pieces. Thanks again for your help.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:48 PM
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Hmm.. I don't know for sure, but I really wouldn't think so. Call a dealer on the east coast, they are all open now. It's almost 10am over there.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:55 PM
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Well after More crappy weather and then pulling my back out so bad I could barely walk for almost 3 weeks, I'm finally back at it today. I managed to get the timing cover off but not before putting to much pressure on it and putting a hairline crack in the very top of it about an inch down. I'm having it TIG welded tomorrow. I got everything else off and am down to removing the head bolts. Other than the timing cover and the headbolts, there wasn't a bolt on that car that was torqued to spec. 2 bolts on the oil pan were tight and all the rest I could turn out by hand, Valve cover was the same thing. I'm really surprised this car wasn't leaking oil all over the place.
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:20 PM
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Well more good new...NOT....headbolts 2, 5 and 9 were loose. # 2 head bolt came out with the last inch of threads from the block still hanging on to the bolt. I just left it for the day, didn't even remove the head. Now I have to weigh my options of drilling and time serting or just replace the motor.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:48 AM
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Sounds like a PITA. If you can get a motor for cheap just swap it. Youll be done in half the time I bet.
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:14 PM
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Ohhh come on man!! NO WAY! This has been the biggest joke every for you dude. I'm sorry and good luck. Keep us posted though.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by burgandybomber
Sounds like a PITA. If you can get a motor for cheap just swap it. Youll be done in half the time I bet.
Finding a motor probably isn't too hard but you have to think about this, If I get a junk yard motor, whats to say this it isn't going to have the same problem once I get it installed? I'd hate to pull it again just to return that motor. I see by searching the internet that there's plenty of used engines with as low as 55,000 miles but I've seen some guys have had this trouble at 60k and 65k, besides that, these junk yards are charging $1500 and up for an engine. If I buy the Toyota 2200 Fix it kit, then I'm paying probably $400 - $600 and there's no saying whether I get it right or screw it up. I'm already upside down on this car. I do have one question though. What if I went up to a bigger diameter head bolt? The threads are gone already so all I'd have to do is drill out to the needed size and run a cutting tap and finishing tap in it. Would it work or are there other considerations I'm not seeing?

Thanks again.
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:07 AM
  #33  
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Thats way beyond me. How many miles are on the car? I had to have my engine replace from hydro lock and she purrs like a kitten. Ive been boosting this motor for about 5k miles now and the motor had 77k when it was put in. Just because I did everything but physically drop the motor when I did the clutch, I am going to just drop the whole subframe the next time I need to do any motor/trans work. Just from what you have gone through, I would have just pulled it. Kind of excessive from where you started but hey... thats hindsight. Good luck bud.
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Old 04-02-2014, 10:49 PM
  #34  
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Car has 128K on it. If I had a garage to work in I'd have pulled the motor also.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:47 PM
  #35  
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I finally made a decision and bought the NS300L insert kit from Huhn Solutions. I paid $329.00 for the Kit which includes the JIG, 2 Taps, 1 for the initial thread and a bottom tap and the drill bit and all the inserts, the tool to thread the inserts, Lock tite, a ruler and full instructions. This kit was first designed to use on the Cadillac North star engines and then modified to work on the 2.0 and 2.4 Toyotas. As of Sunday I already managed to get 2 holes drilled, tapped and inserts installed. It's actually pretty easy, I'm just taking my time so I make sure I don't screw it up.
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:08 AM
  #36  
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Good luck man.
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:33 PM
  #37  
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Just an update here. The weathers been kinda crappy so it's slow going. I have 7 of the bolt holes drilled tapped and inserted. 3 more to go, hopefully today and I'll be ready to start the re-assembly. Each bolt hole takes about 1.5 hrs to do. This is just because you don't want to dull your bits by going to fast and not using enough oil. One thing I didn't do is think about all the chips from drilling. So keep in mind they go all over. I have all the cylinders and oil / coolant ports taped over but one thing I didn't think of was the intake manifold. Now I have to completely remove that and clean it out before re-installing, I just had it push back and didn't seal the open ports so metal shavings were blown into it.
I figure I can finish the 3 holes today after work and tomorrow it's suppose to be sunny and 63* I can start on the re-assembly.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:21 PM
  #38  
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Update, The holes are all drilled and tapped. The head is back on and the cams and chains are re-installed. It's suppose to rain the rest of the week, don't know if I'll get a chance to get to anymore.
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:40 PM
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At least it's on...
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:58 PM
  #40  
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I'm looking for a good gasket sealer for the timing chain cover and oil pan, any suggestions? Also, when the cam chain tensioner is installed are there any suggestions on how to release the hook so it can take up slack? I'm not quite sure how I'm suppose to get it there and release it.
Thanks.
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