Prep'd turbo install problem
04-14-2014, 05:27 PM
#62
Interesting development. This morning I got the bright idea to reflash the FIC before going out and checking the resistor mod on the harness and sourcing a new FIC. So I reflashed z104.hex, started the car and it worked like a charm! Just in case it was a fluke, I let it idle for a minute, shut it down, then tried to start again and it worked. Drove to work (28 miles), shut the car off, and tried again. It started, though cranking took about 1/2 longer. It started fine 3 times in a row.
Gonna keep checking it throughout the day to see if anything different happens. Will know by the end of the week whether the CEL pops back up or not. So before putting in a new FIC, try reflashing your existing one.
Gonna keep checking it throughout the day to see if anything different happens. Will know by the end of the week whether the CEL pops back up or not. So before putting in a new FIC, try reflashing your existing one.
04-14-2014, 05:54 PM
#63
So far that's how it's looking. Started it up a couple times this afternoon at lunch and no issues, no cel. Still have a few more days of driving before the ecu goes thru it's scan and the obd reads ready. It's looking promissing though.
04-14-2014, 06:08 PM
#64
04-22-2014, 11:01 PM
#68
Oh im sticking it out. Ive always wanted to boost my car since day 1 when I drove it off the lot brand new. Im sure I will run into other problems but when it happens ill deal with it then. Thanks for your support guys.
04-23-2014, 01:50 AM
#69
Haha I was in the same boat. I've been waiting 5 years and it was so worth it! Get her up an running and spank some fools!
05-26-2014, 10:54 PM
#71
So I finally started to get the kit on. Got everything including injectors and it fires up just fine. Now when I tried give it some gas since I plan driving it to get it tuned but it doesnt do a damn thing lol. Im thinking that maybe my vacuun lines arent hooked up right. I have a vacuum block tied into my tb and maf sensor. I feel like we need a song like "the leg is connected to the...." but vacuum lines. I know the bov goes to the vacuum block. I have 2 ports on the WG and a solenoid boost control. I was told the turbo pressure housing Ts to the bottom wg port and the solenoid then the other port on the solenoid goes to the top of the wg. Doesnt the wg need to go to the block as well? Halp please. Thx.
05-28-2014, 03:25 PM
#72
Jonny5ive post some pictures or videos of how you routed the lines and where your getting your boost/vacuum source from. All small issues on the road to boost but your 95% there congrats bro.
06-22-2014, 04:21 PM
#73
Sorry for the late late reply but here's an update for you guys. I took the whole kit off since I could not figure out what was going on with it and some of the sealant on the oil pan had a leak (not good). I put the kit back on and everything is bolted on, sealed just fine and all. Vacuum lines are where they should be hooked up (ill post pictures) and the car starts up just fine with no idle issues. (except a vacuum leak possibly?) <<< I say this because on a stock setup my gauge read -20. With the turbo on during idle it reads -7.5. Now I know its a completely different setup but I just want to make sure if this is or isn't normal. I've read that dezods kit reads -20 to -22 during idle. This is a ptuning kit and don't know if it should read the same. Now ill disconnect 1 vacuum line just to see what happens and the gauge then reads -3.5. Is -7.5 vacuum normal during idle or does it look like I have a leak somewhere? ive checked all fittings on vacuum lines and hoses. Everything is going to a vacuum block so ill start pulling different lines and blocking them off to see if that fixes my problem. I'm almost there I can taste it. Please lemme know if this is or isn't normal. Thanks.
06-22-2014, 04:30 PM
#74
From left to right.
1. To throttle body
2. 2 hooks to port 3
3. Hooks to port 2.
4. Goes to gauge and fic
5. Goes to intake pipe
6. Goes to bov
7. Goes to bottom of maf
This is my setup.
1. To throttle body
2. 2 hooks to port 3
3. Hooks to port 2.
4. Goes to gauge and fic
5. Goes to intake pipe
6. Goes to bov
7. Goes to bottom of maf
This is my setup.
06-22-2014, 08:25 PM
#75
7.5 is waaaayyy too low. That's a pretty bad leak. I think your solenoid connections are bad. You should have a source (comp housing, vac block, etc) tee'd for the bottom of the wastegate and input of the solenoid. The top of the wastegate should be connected to the output of the solenoid (usually).
06-22-2014, 08:58 PM
#76
Fixed the vacuum problem now im readin -20. Right now im just running a vacuum line from my compressor to the wg and gonna use the spring till I get it to the shop. Then ill use the electronic boost solenoid. Can boost be made on a car if it is on jack stands? Or does the engine need to have a load put on it?
06-23-2014, 01:14 AM
#77
Problem solved boost made with wheels on the ground and on a baee map. When I tried running the same base map I sputter like crazy. Then I disconnected the aem fic and ran stock ecu and it runs just fine. Can I use the stock ecu to get to the tuner. My wideband is reporting 10-12 which is rich right?
06-23-2014, 03:16 AM
#78
You should not be boosting until you can get it to the tuner. Base maps are only good for getting to a tuner and mostly driving under vacuum. 10-12 AFR is very rich, which is at least better to have on a basemap. I would not recommend driving on the stock ecu. You run the risk of the ecu throwing the car into limp mode or even worse, leaning out during acceleration and going BOOM.
06-23-2014, 02:04 PM
#80
Sounds like you are almost done. Good job! Where abouts is your vacuum source? Best for the tc is the brake booster line. I had it off one of the TB lines and it idled about -10. Now my Ptuning kit idles at -20 as well so thats good to hear.
Are you going to be dynoing the setup?
Are you going to be dynoing the setup?