Brake Pad Change (No Pics)
07-06-2006, 06:33 AM
#44
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,238
no.... no need it really is very simple 1 screw old pads off new pads just slide in use the c clamp to push the piston back in and screw the screw back in and your done.... about 15 min.
axxis ult are very good by the way!
axxis ult are very good by the way!
07-07-2006, 04:08 AM
#46
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,238
ok well i need some help........ after driving the car hard it seems they my brakes are not working very well.. it seems like the pressure in the lines is not very high and i need to press it in pretty far to get it to go..... also when im stoped(auto trans) when i hit the brakes really quick it usually jumps back and forth but now its like really slugish
HELP.........
HELP.........
07-07-2006, 05:11 AM
#48
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,238
i never did.... every 1 says you dont need to im using axxis unlimited by the way.
i slamed the breaks and they locked up so they are working but it just feels very slugish and if you tap it hard its not a sudden jerk..
i slamed the breaks and they locked up so they are working but it just feels very slugish and if you tap it hard its not a sudden jerk..
07-16-2006, 08:57 PM
#49
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 81
Originally Posted by FromThisSoil
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...
... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
All you have to do is:
1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.
How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?
07-17-2006, 02:02 AM
#52
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Royalton, OH
Posts: 1,408
Originally Posted by acelesson
Originally Posted by FromThisSoil
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...
... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
All you have to do is:
1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.
How the hell hard do you need to pry on this thing? Ive tried EVERYTHING to get it off? Are you sure you dont have to take off that HUGE black nut thats in the middle?
next time wait a little longer than 20 mins before posting a bump.
anyways, don't pry it off, most likely it's held on with rust, you need to smash it with a hammer towards the center in a circle pattern and it will probably fall off. that thing in the center is the dust cover for you drive shaft leave it alone (correct me if wrong on this)
08-04-2006, 10:54 PM
#60
ok guys - I went to toyota today to buy the bolts. It turns out that most toyota dealers do not stock them. I found a larger dealership that happened to have 23of them. I think they cost me around $.56 each and I bought 6. I changed all 4 bolts in the front since they were so cheap. They told me the torque setting for the caliper bolts are 25lbs. When I took off my caliper on the other side they were torqued to 30lbs. Moral of the story is ...30lbs is the MAX!! I was talked to the guy I work with today and he said I had the torque wrench up to 50lbs. ..... 50lbs will break the bolts just so you guys know. I would say torque anywhere from 25 to 30.
Turned out that I had 1/2 my pads left and it was the heat shield that was rubbing. Now that I have new pads, bleeded brake lines, and clean rims (from my tire rotation) I can go on with things and deff say that I learned a lot from this venture. The hardest part about changing brakes is getting enough (ballz) courage to do it for the first time. The guy at work helped me do the one wheel and I did the other today by myself (and also rebolted the other caliper w/ the broken bolt).
There is nothing hard about doing this after you know how to properly do the first wheel. Honestly I knew it was easy to change brakes but it was A LOT easier then what I even thought. I went to pepboys and bought a $8 self bleeding kit which helped me compress the piston very very very easily. Some guys say ya dont need the bleed the lines but I did and it was a very easy thing to do.
Last thing: the part number for the front caliper bolts (2 small 1inch'ish bolts) is: 90105-08164 - All the dealers said their prices were the same so expect to pay .56-$2.30 per bolt.
Turned out that I had 1/2 my pads left and it was the heat shield that was rubbing. Now that I have new pads, bleeded brake lines, and clean rims (from my tire rotation) I can go on with things and deff say that I learned a lot from this venture. The hardest part about changing brakes is getting enough (ballz) courage to do it for the first time. The guy at work helped me do the one wheel and I did the other today by myself (and also rebolted the other caliper w/ the broken bolt).
There is nothing hard about doing this after you know how to properly do the first wheel. Honestly I knew it was easy to change brakes but it was A LOT easier then what I even thought. I went to pepboys and bought a $8 self bleeding kit which helped me compress the piston very very very easily. Some guys say ya dont need the bleed the lines but I did and it was a very easy thing to do.
Last thing: the part number for the front caliper bolts (2 small 1inch'ish bolts) is: 90105-08164 - All the dealers said their prices were the same so expect to pay .56-$2.30 per bolt.