Voltage Stabilizer Installation
05-24-2006, 09:38 AM
#82
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Grants Pass, OR
Posts: 11
are you trying to say the educated can't also be ignorant? it would appear as though they can be synonomous at times... 
anyways i just get tired of all the negative air a lot of these threads get... but i guess that's just human nature to need some sort of turmoil and drama...
anyways i just get tired of all the negative air a lot of these threads get... but i guess that's just human nature to need some sort of turmoil and drama...
08-07-2007, 04:39 PM
#84
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 2
I'd actually really like to do this... any chance you could reload the pictures? they're not working for me...
*Administrator's Note: The OP's Original Images from 12/2004 have long Expired
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*Administrator's Note: The OP's Original Images from 12/2004 have long Expired
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 05-09-2020 at 03:06 AM. Reason: Added Administrator's Note
09-11-2007, 03:44 PM
#86
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Location: North Los Angeles County
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Originally Posted by cobb
Wonder if this will help with my head lights or fan seep of blower lowering slightly at idle, then returning to normal speed?
05-06-2010, 04:38 AM
#87
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 15
ok so im a little new, but i have done alot of research on this and talk to a&j racing about the voltage stabilizer, and what you pretty much described is an ignition booster, but you hook it to the ignition fuse. it seems more likely to give better performance by connecting it to the ignition fuse, but you can run both in conjunction and get best results. what do you guys think? think that it wired under the dash to the ignition fuse would help or give better spark?
OK, I give. Here is a question. If you are mainly concenrned about ripples effecting the ECU, why not hook this filter across the main fuse board or across the ECU itself instead of out in the battery compartment? All the engine sensors in a fuel injection system are typically grounded back thru the ECU, so why not just tap this thing across the + and - on the ECU up under the dash out of site somewhere. It's appears to be just a glofiried noise filter like what you would hook up to the + feed of a car stereo, or am I wrong here? I know the ECU drops down voltage to 5V inside to feed out to the engine sensors. Noise in the incomming 12V line effects the drop down to 5V that dramatically inside the ECU? Wouldn't the DC to DC converter inside the ECU have circuitry to gaurd against in-rush and current ripple on the main 12V source? Those units on the market with the clear cases and LED's just look like extra added bling for the engine compartment. If your going to make such a device, I gotta believe you would get the same filtering effect by cramming it under the dash out of site an hooking it across the main fuse board that all your interior power and ECU feed thru.....
05-17-2010, 05:26 AM
#88
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Los Angeles County
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ok so im a little new, but i have done alot of research on this and talk to a&j racing about the voltage stabilizer, and what you pretty much described is an ignition booster, but you hook it to the ignition fuse. it seems more likely to give better performance by connecting it to the ignition fuse, but you can run both in conjunction and get best results. what do you guys think? think that it wired under the dash to the ignition fuse would help or give better spark?
Go back and read the whole thread, and then talk to someone knowledgeable about ignitions who _doesn't_ sell these things.
06-09-2010, 02:09 AM
#89
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Location: Hawaii - Moved to Everett WA 2012
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Kong is just Kong Tai Wah !
[QUOTE= if using smaller capacitors (say 1000 microfarad) with higher voltage ratings, and the result would be equally ineffective. 
In any case, it's a lot of effort to put into a problem that doesn't exist![/QUOTE]
That is soooooooo obvious !
Kong Tai Wah = BS (That's the Honest-to-goodness translation)
An engineer cannot spell capacitor correctly ? and numerous other component names as well.... BS man, BS
In any case, it's a lot of effort to put into a problem that doesn't exist![/QUOTE]
That is soooooooo obvious !
Kong Tai Wah = BS (That's the Honest-to-goodness translation)
An engineer cannot spell capacitor correctly ? and numerous other component names as well.... BS man, BS
07-25-2010, 04:05 PM
#93
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 79
It's just BS. The wires between the components and capacitors will pick up any noise anyway. All the components that need filtering already have them on their boards. It's a waste of time and money, just like the ground-wire systems, vortex intakes, and engine oil additives.
These cars aren't perfect - lots can be modded and improved. Just not these areas. Alternators have perfectly reasonable voltage regulators.
These cars aren't perfect - lots can be modded and improved. Just not these areas. Alternators have perfectly reasonable voltage regulators.
09-05-2011, 06:40 AM
#94
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Hi ... I'm new here. I've read your article. quite interesting. But I can't see the pictures. Mr. Kong, can you send me the pictures.
Thanks.
*Administrator's Note: The OP's Original Images from 12/2004 have long Expired
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Thanks.
*Administrator's Note: The OP's Original Images from 12/2004 have long Expired
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 05-09-2020 at 03:07 AM. Reason: Added Administrator's Note
09-17-2011, 09:07 PM
#95
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05-09-2020, 02:19 AM
#98
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I spoke to Thomas Edison about all this voodoo magic and he said current was suitable for stabilization but voltage was not, therefore this thread is in need of a good ole fashioned exorcism......or at least unstickied.
05-09-2020, 07:57 AM
#99
All a voltage stabilizer does is deliver a constant voltage to a load at its output terminals regardless of the changes in the input or incoming supply voltage. A car battery acts pretty much as a voltage stabilizer. All cars (Except some electric cars) use DC [Direct Current] which is more stable compared to AC, at least in a car as DC becomes less efficient over a distance which is why we use AC for our houses. Also, alternators have a voltage regulator that regulates the charging voltage that the alternator produces, usually keeping it between 13.5 and 14.5 volts to protect the electrical components throughout the vehicle. Since our cars can't use AC current, the alternator's power output is fed through a rectifier (diodes), which converts the AC power to DC power. So, the voltage in our cars is pretty stable and anything electronic that needs an accurate voltage probably has "voltage stabilizers" built-into their circuitry. If voltage stabilizers actually made the engine run smoother, improve performance, and increased gas mileage, then the car manufactures would use them because they are trying to get the best MPG and performance out of their car while compiling with federal regulations.
(If I'm wrong about anything please correct me on it)
(If I'm wrong about anything please correct me on it)
05-09-2020, 12:40 PM
#100
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Yep, just throw on a ground wire kit if so inclined and call it a day.....focus on some other more rewarding mods......or maintenance. People getting all serious about one thing while having other simple effective things going neglected gets pretty comical. Don't worry about the voltage if no fires or smoke, fix those clunking fixing to fail lower balljoints before the wheels fall off and voltage of any level becomes super irrelevant. My previous post was somewhat sarcastic....this one, not so much. Either way, 10 yr old thread revivals are fun.