Brake Bleeding (Power Bleeder DIY)
09-26-2005, 02:13 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Houston, TX
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Brake Bleeding (Power Bleeder DIY)
The brakes on the tC require the use of a power bleeder to successfully bleed the brakes or change the brake fluid. The chance of getting air into the lines is too high without one. A bleeder is also useful for bleeding the clutch hydraulic cicruit.
Small, hand-pump pressure bleeders are available for some cars, especially those that typically see track use, because replacing the brake fluid frequently is important. I figured I’d just make one for the tC. Other than the brake fluid reservoir cap, which you of course can get from the dealership, all of the parts can be purchased from Lowe’s. Total cost is about $25.
Parts:
- 1 gallon economy garden sprayer (or a more expensive one with a pressure relief valve, which is recommended)
- Brake fluid reservoir cap (there wasn’t a listing in the system for the tC; I think we looked up the part number from a Camry or Celica, but it is the same thing)
- 3/8 Barb X 3/8 FPT plumbing fitting (shown below). This part is key (and it took a lot of searching to find just the right thing.) I don’t know what the cross-reference would be for any store other than Lowe’s.
- RTV silicone or GOOP
- Small zip tie or small hose clamp
- Long zip tie or large hose clamp
Tools:
- Drill and bits
- Dental pick (or small screwdriver)
Pull the black rubber cap off of the top of the reservoir cap, and then press out the white plastic vent core. The design of this vent boggles me.
This photo shows the disassembled reservoir cap and the plumbing fitting set. Only the brass part will be used.
This comparison of the plastic vent core and the brass fitting shows that they have a similar lip.
The reservoir cap needs a larger hole. I forget what size drill I used, but just make it the same size or a little smaller than the brass fitting.
Apply the GOOP or RTV silicone around the fitting and inside the cap.
Work the fitting into the cap. You’ll need a pick or small screwdriver to help get the lip of the fitting into the cap. Wipe off any exposed sealant. Allow the sealant to cure.
Push the end of the hose on the garden sprayer onto the brass fitting and clamp it on with the zip tie or hose clamp.
A side-by-side of my homemade bleeder for the tC and one made for the BMW.
Since this is just a press-on cap, not a screw-on type, I put a large zip tie or hose clamp around the cap once it is on the reservoir to prevent the pressure from blowing it off.
Also, I turn the bleeder on its side when pumping to prevent injecting air into the brake fluid.
To use the bleeder, pour the brake fluid into the bleeder and screw the pump on. Install the cap and the safety clamp or zip tie. Turn the bleeder on its side and pump 15-20 times. After bleeding, place a rag around where the pump screws into the body and slowly unscrew the pump to release the pressure. Brake fluid will damage your paint, and isn’t great for your eyes, either. A slightly more expensive garden sprayer with a pressure relief valve would be nice here.
The details for brake bleeding are available elsewhere. Just make sure that the end of the pickup tube inside the bleeder is always in fluid. And don’t apply pressure without the calipers mounted over the rotors (or at least the pads or something else between the caliper and piston), otherwise there is a chance that the piston will be forced out of the caliper.
Small, hand-pump pressure bleeders are available for some cars, especially those that typically see track use, because replacing the brake fluid frequently is important. I figured I’d just make one for the tC. Other than the brake fluid reservoir cap, which you of course can get from the dealership, all of the parts can be purchased from Lowe’s. Total cost is about $25.
Parts:
- 1 gallon economy garden sprayer (or a more expensive one with a pressure relief valve, which is recommended)
- Brake fluid reservoir cap (there wasn’t a listing in the system for the tC; I think we looked up the part number from a Camry or Celica, but it is the same thing)
- 3/8 Barb X 3/8 FPT plumbing fitting (shown below). This part is key (and it took a lot of searching to find just the right thing.) I don’t know what the cross-reference would be for any store other than Lowe’s.
- RTV silicone or GOOP
- Small zip tie or small hose clamp
- Long zip tie or large hose clamp
Tools:
- Drill and bits
- Dental pick (or small screwdriver)
Pull the black rubber cap off of the top of the reservoir cap, and then press out the white plastic vent core. The design of this vent boggles me.
This photo shows the disassembled reservoir cap and the plumbing fitting set. Only the brass part will be used.
This comparison of the plastic vent core and the brass fitting shows that they have a similar lip.
The reservoir cap needs a larger hole. I forget what size drill I used, but just make it the same size or a little smaller than the brass fitting.
Apply the GOOP or RTV silicone around the fitting and inside the cap.
Work the fitting into the cap. You’ll need a pick or small screwdriver to help get the lip of the fitting into the cap. Wipe off any exposed sealant. Allow the sealant to cure.
Push the end of the hose on the garden sprayer onto the brass fitting and clamp it on with the zip tie or hose clamp.
A side-by-side of my homemade bleeder for the tC and one made for the BMW.
Since this is just a press-on cap, not a screw-on type, I put a large zip tie or hose clamp around the cap once it is on the reservoir to prevent the pressure from blowing it off.
Also, I turn the bleeder on its side when pumping to prevent injecting air into the brake fluid.
To use the bleeder, pour the brake fluid into the bleeder and screw the pump on. Install the cap and the safety clamp or zip tie. Turn the bleeder on its side and pump 15-20 times. After bleeding, place a rag around where the pump screws into the body and slowly unscrew the pump to release the pressure. Brake fluid will damage your paint, and isn’t great for your eyes, either. A slightly more expensive garden sprayer with a pressure relief valve would be nice here.
The details for brake bleeding are available elsewhere. Just make sure that the end of the pickup tube inside the bleeder is always in fluid. And don’t apply pressure without the calipers mounted over the rotors (or at least the pads or something else between the caliper and piston), otherwise there is a chance that the piston will be forced out of the caliper.
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