Slikk

iTrader: (1)

wow that's a weird setup .. i have never seen an oil filter that doesn't have the canister cover before.

Aseries

Thanks for the Xd oil change pics. I have been changing my own oil for 40 years except for times when I was lazy or wimped out by the weather. We have a 1996 Camry and I love to change the oil because the filter points UP right behind the radiator. You just let it cool down for 20 minutes and all the oil drains out of the filter and when you spin it off from a standing position it is bone dry. We bought a Hyundai Sonata in 2007. I could see right away it was different. A search on the WEB revealed a similar series of photos. The V6 has the filter right on the top front of the block inside a casting with a plastic cap on top. The Hyundai filter comes with two o-rings and the drain plug compression washer and it's cheaper than FRAM. Piece of cake. I have been using synthetic oil exclusively for about 15 years. My Camry has 140,000 miles. The only repairs have been a leaking oil pressure sensor and a rear end bushing. I just sold my beloved 1995 Mitsubishi Galant 5-speed with 120,000 miles; the only repairs being a clutch and a clutch hydraulic line contaminated from the factory; absolutely no rust (in Minnesota). I sold it after buying the Xd because I wanted a car with the latest safety technology. The Galant was a real athlete but bad if in a crash. I will get my filter from Toyota. I have learned from experience to get my parts and service from the dealers, if possible. Maplewood Toyota is THE BEST. Another reason to dump the Galant was my local dealer's bankruptcy. I had a 89 Galant and a local indie repair shop replaced the clutch and ruined the axle boots then refused to replace them. From then on I went to the mother-ship. Today, I will be off to Toyota to get my oil filter kit. BTW Walmart has synthetic oil in 5 qt containers for $17 or $23 depending on brand. No excuses to not use the best. They also had a FRAM Xd oil filter but lacking the plug compression washer. No matter what car you have, ALWAYS use a compression washer. A lot of places sell them in blister packs. I always keep some on hand.

themrfreeze

The Toyota filters are actually CHEAPER than the aftermarket stuff available at the auto parts store. Makes it a no-brainer. I ordered 10 filters and a dozen of the washers from one of the online dealers (trdsparks.com)...I think they were $4 each.

Aseries

Just changed my 2009 xD oil for the third time. I have 11K miles so far of 90% urban driving so it will get changed about every 3-4 months. Concerning oil filter plastic canister remove and replace. I had one of the stamped tools pictured in the nicely done post here illustrating the procedure. I had been using it on a Toyota Camry and a Mitsubishi Galant. It would not work with the Scion xD. I could not make enough torque without slippage. The correct tool is cast aluminum and works every time.
Assenmacher (ASTTOY640) Toyota Oil FIlter Wrench.
I got mine through Amazon.

XD_SR2.0

If you use the Assenmacher and a 17 inch breaker bar. It will make a lot of torque

cbmikey

Yeah it would make a lot of torque... I would say too much torque?

+1 on the AST wrench. I bought mine off Amazon too and it works perfect so far.

I have a standard 15/16" combi wrench and it worked just fine. Get it all lined up and one rap with a fist breaks it loose. I tighten it down just a little harder than I would a normal spin-on and I've had no problems yet.

One thing to add too if it hasn't been is to have the oil slightly warmed before doing this. I've found that 1 1/2 to 2 minutes is plenty to warm the engine up to make removing the filter housing easy.

Aseries

Not to be geeky about this topic but the oil filter housing should be tightened to 21 ft/lb. If you get your filter from Toyota the box has very detailed instructions.

cbmikey

Dork!

No, I know there are detailed torque requirements. I have rather large (and strong) hands that rarely fail to torque enough. hand-snug to me usually equals wrench tight to most others.

Aseries

Prior to some time around the 60's spin-on oil filters were quite rare as were paper air filters. General car maintenance was a dirty nasty job. Oil filters were inside a cast iron housing with a bolt up the middle. It was a mess to remove, clean and replace and the gaskets usually leaked. For real cheapskates there was a way to use a roll of toilet paper instead of an oil filter cartridge. Oil bath air filters were a lot of fun I won't go into. Crankcases did not vent into the intake manifold but into the atmosphere with a wonderful device called a road-draft tube. Most cars required some kind of monthly lubrication and semi-annual major tune-up. Don't let anybody make you believe the 50's were the good old days for cars. Give me as much modern technology as I can get.

cbmikey

Yeah I've worked on some old tractors that had oil bath air filters. Not pretty by any means.

Icepik

My '08 XD has 12,000 miles and has had two oil changes by the dealer. I change the oil in my Ford Ranger but am wary of tackling the XD. The photos posted are excellent for changing the XD's oil and filter; however, as I am not that mechanically-inclined, I do have a few questions...
1) Are there torque specifications for both the drain bolt and the filter cover?
2) What type torque wrench would work for the bolt as well as the 65mm 14-flute end cap wrench? (what size of wrench...metric?).
3) If the drain plug gaskets have sticky type stuff on either side of an aluminum, do we need a "compression gasket" instead? If so, is there a number for that piece?
I would appreciate the feedback from anyone patient enough to spoon-feed this info!!! Thanks!!!

doccac

Don't be anxious at all about the change. Its very easy. I have never used a torque wrench. The canister turns until it stops. There is not plus/minus as on the old spin type filters where you turn it for "3/4 of a turn after contact". You will know when its there. It simply stops turning. The only trick is that there is a rubber gasket that comes with the filter element and goes on the plastic container. Just pay attention to which groove the old one is in and replace it with the new one. As far as the drain plug, I got a fumoto valve so I don't replace it each time. Tightened it by hand with a little nudge with a wrench at the end taking care not to strip it. done.

Icepik

Hey Thanks...I checked the Fumoto website and it appears that the model for the Scion is the F-103. I might get one for my Ranger as well. Would you simply use a ratchet with the end cap wrench?

doccac

I use a ratchet with a 24mm socket (I think) and the Assenmacher cup to loosen it and tighten it at the end. The fumoto is definitely a good addition IMO.

Icepik

Thank you!

cbmikey

And just for clarity, 15/16" for the cap wrench and 9/16" for the drain plug. After 4 oil changes, my oil plug gasket is still fine, I haven't seen the need to change it, I just make sure it's nice and clean.

I plan on ordering a Fumoto valve before the next oil change. I've heard nothing but good things about them and I'm a little excited about it!

Icepik

I ordered the Assenmacher Toy640 filter wrench...and after doing so, read some reviews from guys who had ordered the wrench. They all said it works fine but that it does not have a hole as pictured at that particular Amazon site or in the above how-to-change pics. This is what the seller emailed me when I inquired..." Your are correct, the picture is outdated.

Up until about 6 - 8 months ago they were making it with a hole. It was
just part of the manufacturing process. It was not meant as a square
drive for use with a ratchet. It was always manufactured for use with a
wrench.

The more recent filter wrench has been coming thru SOLID. I guess they
found a more economical way to produce these.

Either way, this will be, by far, the BEST filter wrench you can buy.
This is one of our most popular items. And a very professional, made in
USA tool, used in all the dealerships and quick lube stations."

Icepik

I also bit the bullet and ordered Fumoto drain plug valves for both my Ford Ranger and the Scion. I went with the model that includes a nipple which gives the option of using a hose to the waiting oil catch pan. I figure once I get underneath the Scion and get started, something will not be clear....if that happens, I'll be typing to you guys (with oily hands) for help! :-) Barry

cbmikey

Mine looks just like Aseries' post on 10-4. Mine takes a 15/16" open end wrench to turn it. I suppose a box end would also work if you prefer them.

Don't worry Barry. If you've ever changed oil before it'll be a breeze. You just have a horizontal oil filter instead of a vertical one!

Icepik

Hey thanks for the encouragement! What length open end wrench would you recommend to allow for enough torque? Also, I noticed in the photo before the plastic filter cap was removed, there appears to be a metal clip at one location where the filter cap meets the metal. Does it need to be manipulated when taking off or putting on the filter cap? I suppose I could jack the car up and see for myself!