ScionLife.com

web · 10-26-2008, 12:56 PM

Along with my clutch line install, I installed my stainless steel brake lines I purchased through Carcandy. Scale of 1-10 for install...without pressure bleeder maybe a 4, WITH pressure bleeder a 1.

Install on these lines are very simple and straight forward. There is a DIY for both clutch and brake lines in the DIY section if you're interested in reviewing it.

Stock pedal pressure leaves something to desire so I wanted to see how stainless steel lines helped out. Again, a few weeks ago I flushed the fluid from the lines with my pressure bleeder and felt a slightly more firm pedal due to the new fluid. After the 160 miles between yesterday and today, I was able to test out the lines for the most part and like them. I haven't done any really hard stopping though b/c yesterday the hand of God opened up and dumped water on my area. For the most part, I was babying the car through a fog of rain that you could barely see the nose of your own car in.

I will be further testing them out today but from what I've driven so far, they do feel a little firmer than stock lines and I don't feel the excess flex in the line when sitting at a light and adding a bit more pressure. Normally, there's an "allowance" on the hydraulic system that relieves the pedal pressure if you're forcing more pressure than the lines can hold....that gives you a bit of a squishiness when you're holding the brake pedal down and sitting still. These don't really allow that pedal to move much more so they seem to be doing their job.

web · 10-27-2008, 12:22 PM

Update:

Drove a good bit more yesterday and was able to test out their stopping ability on dry pavement. I really don't feel a great deal of improvement with these lines but at the same time, there IS a little. Being able to apply a little less pressure when sitting on a hill is nice if your legs are tired from exercising. I came to an ABS stop yesterday and it was about the same as OEM but pedal pressure, again, was reduced on my part. So far, they seem to be pretty good and I have no issues.

digndoug · 10-27-2008, 12:45 PM

Did you by chance try using synthetic brake fluid? I did SS Brake lines with synthetic fluid, I want to say I noticed a difference, but it honestly was not a lot. The pedal feels a tighter, and not as ... maybe soft/sloppy. I'm sure it would be better if I also upgraded the pads, I'm still on oem with plenty of ware left.

web · 10-27-2008, 01:03 PM

Forgot to mention my setup...oops

EBC Redstuff pads
EBC dimpled/slotted rotors
SS lines
DOT 3/4 Valvoline synthetic brake fluid

Full system flush with pressure bleeder.

jsingh · 10-27-2008, 01:28 PM

so if i want to improve the brake system, i would have to get new brake lines, pads, fluid (synthetic).
and would the new rotors help?

digndoug · 10-27-2008, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsingh

so if i want to improve the brake system, i would have to get new brake lines, pads, fluid (synthetic).
and would the new rotors help?

Lines, Pads, Fluids will all help. Rotors.. you wont see any real gain at all, Unless you get larger,which means you get a big brake kit or the relocated kit, which I dont see worth while unless you are doing auto-x on weekends.

I spent $80 on SS lines(bought new from other member that did not install) then $12 on Fluid and maybe 2 hours with the g/f's help.

I didn't do pads yet, cause I still have half oem left, but dif after driving hard, give in to heat stroke quick.

web · 10-27-2008, 03:38 PM

The only type of rotor setup that I can see giving anything back to the car other than heat dissipation would be a 2 piece rotor. Lighter rotational mass for added wheel rotation.

But yeah, pads/lines/fluid usually help the brake system out the most. But remember, the mainly think controlling the pressure in the system is the master cylinder so although other parts are replaced with performance upgrades, that's the hydraulic pressure center. If that's weak, the rest won't work at their optimum level of performance.

digndoug · 10-27-2008, 03:46 PM

If your replacing your rotors for what ever reason, use 2 piece Brembo Blanks.

Pads will make the biggist dif, but more so for composite and heat stroke. Really, If you dont do hard braking/driving or auto x You are best off sticking with an close to oem. Because nicer brakes ware much quicker as well, become more effective when they are heated up.

**toeveryhour** · 10-27-2008, 05:18 PM

I'm gonna go this route come spring. Web, can I ask how much you paid for the brake lines?

web · 10-27-2008, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toeveryhour

I'm gonna go this route come spring. Web, can I ask how much you paid for the brake lines?

Brake lines alone were 130$ from www.Carcandymotorsports.com

jBoRiCuA · 10-27-2008, 10:45 PM

How much did you spend on the whole setup? Probably ALOT cheaper than buying the StopTech Stage 2 Kit..

http://www.nurspec.com/ProductDetail...Slotted-Rotors

web · 10-28-2008, 10:05 AM

60$ rear red stuff pads
90$ front red stuff pads
165$ front dimpled/slotted EBC rotors
135$ rear dimpled/slotted EBC rotors
130$ agency power lines
10$ brake fluid

Total: ~590$ but I can see that prices have gone up about 15$ for rotors since I bought them and 10$ for pads since I bought them.

My price was: ~540$....plus, my rotors are not completely drilled through (which is NOT a good idea for cast rotors) so cracking due to heat around the drilled holes is not a major factor in mine.