jzchen

Most likely there are four wires under there that will connect to the green relay. One of the two new pins goes to DRL output on main ECU. the other goes to ground.

To those who want no DRL will have all the wires there to connect to the new blue relay....

Jester6

I removed the DRL on my SVT Focus awhile back, had a 4 pin relay as well. All I ended up doing was making a 3 pin jumper and bypassing the DRL pin, makes me wonder if its not similar.

jzchen

Very similar. I have the pin assignments now, (FINALLY,) of the DRL relay, part # 82642-47020. I'll give what connects where here from the wiring diagram of the Prius v. Since they function the same way, it should be the same, except maybe for wiring colors. If one takes the green relay and looks at the bottom, there are 5 small pins and a 6th giant pin. The giant pin is #6.

So on the socket, looking from the top of the relay and reading TOYOTA right side up, the female relay block assignment is 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Take the wire from pin 6 and connect it to the new relay block pin 3, and also connect to pin 2. Take the wire from pin 4 and attach it to the new relay block pin 1. Take wires from pins 1 and 5, and connect them to the new pin 5. The wire from pin 2 is from the DRL out of the ECU. I'd just tape it so it doesn't short somewhere. The wire from pin 3 goes to ground. I'd just tape it also...

Background of pins:

pin 6 is from +B
pin 4 is from DIM output of the ECU
pin 2 is from DRL output of the ECU
pin 1 is to RH High beam bulb
pin 5 is to LH High beam bulb
pin 3 is to GND

The non-DRL relay is a 70amp SPST relay.

I'm not sure how difficult it is to access underneath the relay block, but I will report when I get all the parts sorted out.

I am hoping I got the right Canadian relay block assembly, part # 82660-47040, but I am still waiting to receive it. I'm afraid I didn't ask for the US block part number, but anyways I'm not sure if it is the correct part in the first place....

Jester6

I'm Canadian, will check the relay when I get to work in the morning. Should even be able to pull the car into the shop and check the pins if were not slammed.

jzchen

TIS access hasn't failed me yet. Don't know how to test the Canadian relay. It seems proprietary. You can definitely find the +B, ground, and light up your high beams I guess....

jzchen

Got the relay block today. It is the correct part number! Going to try to figure out the repair info on it to attach the wires to it.....

Jester6

Looked at mine a bit today, I think it should be pretty simple. Poked around with a test light and multimeter and the DRL pin should be the only one with a 12 volt switched power so simply removing the corresponding pin from the relay should disable them and leave the high beams alone. Gonna see if I can find a junked car to swipe a relay from before I test this though.

jzchen

That sounds good.

jzchen

Can't seem to find repair information for the harness, basically the connectors to populate the relay block.

I found a donor vehicle which I purchased the fuse box from. I will update if it does come with the necessary relay harness.....

fatty_gen2

This thread alive again?

For those who does NOT want DRLs (Canadian tCs), you will have to sacrifice your expensive relay.


No need for this one ^^^

^^^ This is correct.

jzchen

Well, I had to pay $168 plus tax for that green relay you need to somehow sacrifice. You could sell it and replace with a much cheaper blue one. I don't have access to the ECU DRL output so I couldn't check if it output 12 v or ground....

fatty_gen2

Sacrifice, meaning to modify the green (canadian) relay. We still need it to be able to remove the DRLs.

Jester6

Awesome, good to know. Thanks.

jzchen

I don't know if it is difficult to open the fuse/relay box, but replacing with the blue relay should work too.... Yes , you do need to somehow disable the pin. You could try to access the bottom and remove the connector underneath. I have to access the bottom with my case...

fatty_gen2

You're welcome.

I did not mess around with the fuse box. Or what ever wiring it has under. I just did it with my green relay. Hence the modification of the relay. No replacement needed.

I did not bother to update this thread on what i did to disable the DRLs because i think the mod will not help on how to enable them. And nobody seemed to help after my post #94. So why bother. I was able to disable my DRLs on the same month as post #94 by the way.

jzchen

Last few hours of my TIS access. I decided to take a peek at the EWD of the tC. You need to run a line from the DRL pin to pin 20 of 2B connector on the Main Body ECU. (I think this is in the Instrument Panel Junction Block Cowl Left Side.) As of now the only way I know how to attach the new relay block 82660-47040 is to find a donor vehicle fuse box/relay block and request that some length of wire be included. The DRL wire for the tC is W, (I assume this is white,) and repair info for connector 2C is P/N 82998-24290 or 82998-24300(Gold) for the Terminal, and you can use the blue sleeve 82999-12020 to crimp new line to it. The sleeve seems to be standard crimp type connector for connecting two wires together....

wolfman_matt

Anybody get this relay thing figured out? I have a 2014 and it would look really cool if the LED strip worked as a DRL (assuming the Canadian version works this way). Thanks Matt

KILLER

My dual halos used to be DRLs. I just ran the wiring through the firwall and tapped into the car charger plug wires. Now I have an exra switch to turn them on and off whenever I wish

jzchen

Hate to say it but it's really a pain to get to the inside of the fuse box. I'm not sure if it is worth the hassle to do it this way. I'm just now taking apart the used fuse box I got salvaged...

wolfman_matt

In reading through this thread it looks like the Canadian tC's have a different green relay - am I reading that right and has anybody confirmed that you can't just replace the US relay with a Canadian to get the DRL's working? Thanks Matt