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If theactually bolt broke off....well...i think you need to replace the part behind the brake disk. So if your not all that familliar with brake work you might as well take it to the dealer.
I don't think its extremely all that unsafe to drive withought that bolt...you will just screw up your tire, and maybe your alignment, and possibly your wheel too. And it might also be possible to rattle that wheel so much to cause further damage.
I wouldn't drive withought that bolt...unless its just to the dealer to get it fixed but thats just me.
2005 BSP tC - 6-disc In Dash
1988 Red RX7 GTU - Not Stock at all.
You're fine to drive on 4 lug nuts on a 5 bolt pattern. I'm yet to remove the wheels and the discs (brake, that is) so I have no idea how hard it is on these cars. If you have the right tools (read a good pulley) you should be able to do it quite easily on a car with disc brakes (so it won't matter if it's front or rear except for maybe the clearance).
A shop should be able to do for around $400, I imagine. It sucks 'cause the part is only like $10, LOL
If you want to avoid breaking studs in the future either use an air gun or a cross shaped lug wrench. The problem with REMOVING bolts with a torque wrench or single lug wrench tire iron is the uneven side pressure exerted on the studs......el-snappo. Usually the lug nuts sieze up to some extent normally, requiring 100-150 pounds of torque to remove them at times.
Using the torque wrench or normal iron for re-installing is O.K. 'cause you're using less torque.
Also, the side benefit of using a torque wrench is that keeping even pressure on your wheels and rotors WILL actually help to keep the rotors from warping, usually........ not always however.
I was using a real torque wrench.. I hat eto say it's defective.. I've had my tC for almost a yeat and have 15K on it.
Well, I got it fixed. I called the dealership and the "stud" was about $3. I jacked it back up, took the wheel off, removed the calipers, and tapped the broken bolt through the other side.
Getting the new bolt in was a bit of a pain because of the dust shield, but I bent it a little and managed to get the new stud in.
Hammered it in, put the wheels back on a torqued it and I'm all set.
good to see that you got it fixed. what i would have done was just put the stud in and use a bunch of washers and a lug nut. tighten the lug nut until it pulls the stud through. worked for me. much faster and easier than trying to hammer it in
keep it on the track and off the road.
"friends don't let friends drive stock"
I think in need to call 1-800-admit-it... I think i have boost addiction...