so after much deliberation i finally have time to sit down and write a review for install, the kit, and any other misc ish. first and foremost let me tell you that the actual install doesnt take knowledge of rocket science, but it does require one to know a few things beforehand. the night before i assembled the entire thing in my room just to make sure i knew where each part was going before i tore my car apart. getting the OEM header off of the manifold is very difficult and as i said before, knowing what tools to use and each step (eh hem manual) is a plus. i mean being flustered and not even considering using an open/box wrench to take the left corner nut of is crazy . i cannot really remember too much being mentally difficult except the vacuum lines, where they should run and where to tee them. difficulty lies in the physical contribution needed for the job. GRRRRRR the oil pan, holy freakin ____, i had to chisel, beat, kick, pound and pry before i even got it to remotely budge. it took me a good 3 hours to get off. after that, the downpipe and exhaust manifold wasnt aligned properly, so i had to take the turbo apart and piece it together individually. once everything seemed to be in place, i gave it a start, and was startled by the results. it smoke a little, but nothing abnormal to someone who has seen an turbo install, so that freaked me out. the idling was horrible, but i will explain that later. that night i gave it a little push, and popped a coupler off. so how is it today you ask? well its complicated. its idling poorly, is running rich, has the CEL, stalls, has exhaust leak, and the boost meter doesnt reach over 5psi.

***PLEASE TAKE NOTE!!!*** all of the above previously mentioned about problematic characteristics has NOTHING to do with ZPIs kit, fabrication, or manufacturing. I assure you it is only due to my lack of inexperience, as i am taking the necessary precautions to remedy these problems.

idling, of course its idling poorly, i have the OEM sparkplug in. i do have an NGK as it will go in this weekend. this will correct the idling, stalling, lesser gas mileage, and maybe running more rich than not. i have the double antifouler that will go in this weekend which will take care of the CEL, and possibly help mileage and running rich. i am going to uninstall, and reinstall everything making sure all lines are tight, and the exhaust and turbo housing is sealed properly. the only, and i mean the few incorrect aspects of the whole kit was the unclocked turbo and the new location for the MAF sensor. so without further adieu here is a list of newbie warnings and/or donts of a turbo install. take note of this all you newbies who are concerned about installing yourself, as these tips will definitely help you out. for all jaded heads in here, you have my full permission to tell me how dumb i am while laughing your asses off.

1. dont use silicon hoses for vacuum lines, they crimp and cause very very poor idling. use steel braided rubber hoses.
2. dont forget oil pan sealant, your oil will continually drip, leaving little pools in your driveway.
3. make sure you tighten everything very very good. torque everything that calls for it. my kit still isnt torqued, im surprised it hasnt fallen off yet (probably because its overtightened).
4. get EVERYTHING prior to the install, you dont know how many times i ran back and forth to walmart, the hardware store, and the autostore for ____ i needed, or lacked.
5. dont forget to take the gasket off the OEM header, reconnecting the spipe with the downpipe without it makes it sound like complete ___.
6. dont forget the O ring on the BOV, without it, the BOV doesnt work, and gurggles instead of psssshhh.
7. put the charge pipe coupler on throttle body first, then charge pipe, do not install coupler onto charge pipe and entire thing onto throttle body, you will blow/pop the coupler off.

i wish i could remember the rest. this weekend, all that will be taken care of and my car should be at 100%. my problems include untorqued bolts, oil pan sealant, seize compound, cold sparkplug, tightened vacuum lines (primarily where the boost gauge is tee'd), new copper gaskets for wastegate, and refitting of the turbo. obviously, i know whats wrong, so its not a problem.

now for the actual product: this turbo kit is nice. it pulls very hard right after spooling at 2.5k. i mean my car rips. there have been no problems with the kit itself. i have no reporting complaints as of now, as i have had it on for 3 weeks i think. Seriously, it is a very easy install, and a low maintenance type of turbo kit. this is my first one, and ZPIs kit has definitely convinced me to turbo future cars. ZPI as a whole is great, and their customer service is second to none. besides the turbo itself, anything ive needed thereafter has been processed and shipped promptly. i hope this testimonial will show that there are cases of good, and that they truly are trying to become a premier supplier of our products (if they arent already.)

special million thanks to sciondad, poizentC, and kenny. they were a tremendous help in the install, and kept me cool when i wanted to freak out. i wish i could remember more of what i wanted to say, but as the clammoring starts to file in, im sure i'll will remember, and post. thanks for looking.

 

Hey thanks a lot this is probably the single most usefull thing for newbies trying to install the kti themselves (like me ) good job, very appreciated.

 

The oil pan gasket cracks me up......especially after it took you three hours to take off

I think this is a good first hand expirence of the trials of a guy not even sure how a turbo kit works getting the bugs worked out and having fun (most of the time) while doing it.

I am pretty sure the rich issues are do to your boost/vacum leak the fact that the car is sucking in enough air throught the MAF for 7psi and you are hitting under 5.

Either way I know you are happy and it is nice to finally see a customer that owns up to making miastakes and having us help them through the install issues rather than pointing blame saying it is wrong

 

He's happy? Successful?

Basically.



Ok, that's 2...

 

Hey, that oil pan is just insane to remove. I'm with unseen. I used a hammer and kitchen sink pounding on it.

Yup, I had a vacuum leak as well. Boost gauge clues you in on that quickly. Cheap "T" connector crushed on me.

And let us not forget the cheap Tial gaskets. Great WG and BOV, but they can do the gaskets a little better.

 

Does the kit not come with vacuum lines?Also what exactly do you mean by get EVERYTHING prior to the install? What did you have to get that you needed or lacked?And lastly, where can I get some new copper gaskets for the wastegate?
Thanks for the review.

 

when i say "everything" i mean all proper tools. like i said, i was unprepared, so make sure you have a torque wrench, socket wrench and set, open wrench and set (very important for the manifold removal , first 02 sensor, and oil pan removal). buy the oil pan sealant, seize compound, teflon tape, vacuum lines (no they dont come with the kit), copper gaskets (you cant get them from kenny at ZPI), metric and standard allen keys, 2 2-inch bolts/nuts (____ i forgot what thread, manifold gasket, and any other tool you can think of: screw drivers, mallet, hacksaw, oo ooo breaker bars! definitely need breaker bars to get the spipe off.

 

Well, it should have come with vacuum line, but I think ZPI had some issues with double checking to make sure everything is in the box when it leaves.

 

hey, if you used teflon tape on your oil lines, I would remove them too if I were you and use some pipe compound instead...teflon tape isnt the greatest for wet applications...it may or may not leak but just giving you the heads up. Where in L.I are you located cause maybe we could finally get this stage 0 vs supercharged video up already

 

i would prefer castration over removing another tC oil pan.

-Joey

 

I personally forgot to put the vaccum line and T's in his box. and for that, I apologize..

We have copper gaskets in stock. They are either $20 or $25 each. I'll be adding them to the web store shortly.. (my list of things to add never seems to shrink.. it's longer than Joey_WRX's list of traffic tickets!!!! )

If anyone has suggestions, and i've taken a couple from this thread, email me and i'll make changes for v2.0 of my install documentation. It'll have more pictures, and things of that nature..

 

oh the teflon tape is only for the boost gauge adapter. everything else is oil pan sealant, or compound (sciondad, 2005). hahaha, like my APA style citation?

 

lol...

 

Thanks dude, I'm gonna have to see if I can get some copper gaskets.

 

so whatup Unseen, you down to make this stage 0 vs supercharged video since everyone wants to see it

 

yeah as soon as my car is in peak condition. i am not much of a racer, so we're going to have to figure something out to claim an unbiased win.

 

whatevers clever, you let me know...we will figure it out.

 

He's not much of a racer either. He's running a stock supercharged TC. Meaning he is running nothing but the supercharger bolted on to a stock TC. What are you scared of. I won't even bother racing you. It just wouldn't be fair for you at all

 

Modified SC means modified Turbo.... You against a ZPI stage 1.....

 

Yea, no it wouldn't.

But unseen is referring to skills, I bet.

In anycase, I would rather see an unmodded sc tC race a stage 0.

A modded sc vs a stage 0 w/ FMIC and Emanage might be better.