hey guys, i just ordered a front pair of Axxis Deluxe Plus.. and I'm just wondering if the installation is swap based.. meaning, I take the old OEM ones out and slap these on? or I need to replace the brake fluid and all that stuff..? And it would be functional just running the Axxis Deluxe plus in the front and the stock oem ones in the back right? because I think the rear pads are still good..

thanks in advance!

 

Pads are a direct swap for the old pads and after the wheels are removed only one bolt needs to be removed to do the swap. Topmost innerbolt on the caliper needs to be loosened until the caliper body can be swung forward so the pads can be removed. Use a c-clamp to push the caliper piston back into the caliper body and then install the new pads. Swing the caliper back down onto the brakcet and tighten the bolt. Install the wheel and pump the brake pedal a few times to get the fluid back into the caliper and seat the pads. Repeat on the other side and youre good to go. I have changed the pads on all 4 corners along with an oil change on a friends tC in less than 1 hour.

 

Fun fun fun! I need to do this soon.

 

Thanks instigator... so do i pump the brake pedal after I installed BOTH front brakes? or pump it after each one is done?

 

After each side is done. If you do both sides without pumping the pedal you could cause the fluid resevoir to overflow which makes a mess...and brake fluid will dissolve your paint so its not the best thing in the world to have running down your firewall.

 

NOOO its not

 

im assuming bleeding is nothing different with the tC ?

 

if you've done it on other cars, you can handle this

 

okay cool.

i just need an extra foot to pump it.

 

I use a handheld vacuum pump from autozone no pedal pumping required plus it works alot better too

 

Better than what? The normal 2 person method has worked flawlessly for years. I dont disagree that a vacuum bleeder can make 1 man bleeding easier but it is by no means required nor does it offer a "better" bleed.

 

cant argue with something new to me.

i still prefer to feel my brakes. so im guessing you pump once with one hand and the other on the bleeder.

 

Vaccuum bleeders are actually connected to an air compressor which created neagtive flow which draws air out of the caliper. There are also the type that pressurize the master cylinder and force fluid through the system. Either method works well and can save a little time but still are not "better" than any other tired and true method.

 

its a handheld vacuum pump costs about 20 dollars at autozone

 

If your system is working properly you should not need to bleed the brakes if you are simply replacing the pads.

A simple method for compressing the piston, if there is room and you dont have a c-clamp, is to wrap a bit of electrical tape around the ends of two standard screwdrivers. Wiggled them BETWEEN the back of the pad and piston (not between the pad and rotor) before removing the pads. Try to get them as close to opposie sides of the piston as possible. Then gently apply pressure. They will slowly move back into the caliper. Then remove, replace pads and replace. If done carefully this works great. Just dont put too much pressure so you arent digging into anything, and push them SLOWLY back into the caliper evenly. If doing anything (replacing calipers, lines, rear cylinders on drum brakes, master cylinder, etc.) that requires bleeding I just let someone sit inside and do the regular pump n bleed.

Once you are done changing pads, make sure you pump the brakes a few times before backing out of the garage so you do have brakes

 

yea, one of the techs at my old dealer found that out the hard way after working on his truck, did $8k worth of damage to the garage door at the shop
not a good day

 

so no bleeding required to change pads? (brake system noob)

 

You always have these little stories dont you?

 

Nope. Pad swaps are usually one of the easist things to do when working on cars.

 

^^ Especially with 4 wheel discs. 30 minute job if you have done them before.

If the pads you buy do not come with the ends chamfered, it is a good idea to use a sanding block and put a slight chamfer on them. This will help to prevent some of the squealing common with the newer composition pads.