Brake Pad Change (No Pics)
10-03-2005, 04:18 AM
#1
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Brake Pad Change (No Pics)
tC Brake Pad Change
Very easy, absolutely DIY, no special tools or skills required. Kudos to TOYOTA for making it so easy...
Remember that real car enthusiasts always change pads themselves to ensure on of the most critical components of your car operates properly....
Tools required:
14mm socket wrench(for front wheels)
17mm socket wrench (for rear wheels)
C-clamp or Caliper piston tool
Steps:
1. Remove the wheel completely (follow car's manual)
2. Locate two large bolts on the back of caliper
3. This step is different for the front and rear wheels:
FRONT wheels: Using 14mm socket remove ONLY the UPPER bolt
REAR wheels: Using the 17mm socket remove ONLY the LOWER bolt
4. Swing the inner part of the caliper out to expose the pads
5. Using a C-clamp SLOWLY (single turn every 15 secs) push the pad (and the piston underneath it) in until the piston is almost flush with its housing
6. Note the position of pads
7. Remove the pads (two per wheel)
8. Install new pads, make sure their friction surfaces face THE ROTOR
9. Swing the caliper back in
10. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND
11. Reinstall the wheel (follow car's manual)
12. Follow the bedding/brake-in process as outlined by the manufacturer of the pads and/or avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles
NOTE: The front pads have the same exact specs as CELICA GT-S, the rear as LEXUS ES300 and COROLLA
Very easy, absolutely DIY, no special tools or skills required. Kudos to TOYOTA for making it so easy...
Remember that real car enthusiasts always change pads themselves to ensure on of the most critical components of your car operates properly....
Tools required:
14mm socket wrench(for front wheels)
17mm socket wrench (for rear wheels)
C-clamp or Caliper piston tool
Steps:
1. Remove the wheel completely (follow car's manual)
2. Locate two large bolts on the back of caliper
3. This step is different for the front and rear wheels:
FRONT wheels: Using 14mm socket remove ONLY the UPPER bolt
REAR wheels: Using the 17mm socket remove ONLY the LOWER bolt
4. Swing the inner part of the caliper out to expose the pads
5. Using a C-clamp SLOWLY (single turn every 15 secs) push the pad (and the piston underneath it) in until the piston is almost flush with its housing
6. Note the position of pads
7. Remove the pads (two per wheel)
8. Install new pads, make sure their friction surfaces face THE ROTOR
9. Swing the caliper back in
10. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND
11. Reinstall the wheel (follow car's manual)
12. Follow the bedding/brake-in process as outlined by the manufacturer of the pads and/or avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles
NOTE: The front pads have the same exact specs as CELICA GT-S, the rear as LEXUS ES300 and COROLLA
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-25-2018 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr. Badge
06-03-2006, 12:49 AM
#4
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Originally Posted by FromThisSoil
9. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND
I would say do not over do it or the next brake change will be a real pain in the...
06-05-2006, 07:29 PM
#7
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Location: New York
Posts: 246
Originally Posted by krdshrk
Now - you're doing this while the brake line is still connected, right?
06-06-2006, 01:28 AM
#9
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Location: New York
Posts: 246
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...
... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
... now how hard is it to change the rotors?
All you have to do is:
1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.
06-06-2006, 01:00 PM
#13
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Scikotics
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Location: New Brunswick, NJ
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I have the Stoptech Stage II Kit - rotors and pads and brake lines.
I figure I can do the rotors and pads myself and then have my friend help me with the brake lines and bleeding.
Low dust pads? Go wtih Axxis Deluxe Plus. They're organic compound pads with very low dust and long life.
I figure I can do the rotors and pads myself and then have my friend help me with the brake lines and bleeding.
Low dust pads? Go wtih Axxis Deluxe Plus. They're organic compound pads with very low dust and long life.
06-08-2006, 09:33 AM
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 2
If the top bolt is too tight slip a metal pole over the handle of the socket wrench and gently use it to apply more leverage to loosen the bolt. The C-clamp can be found at any store that sells tools like SEARS. I use to work there as a mechanic.
06-08-2006, 08:35 PM
#20
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Scikotics
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Never use a torque wrench as normal socket-wrench... they're precision pieces of equipment.
You won't strip the bolt if you apply more pressure. Just make sure the socket is seated properly.
You won't strip the bolt if you apply more pressure. Just make sure the socket is seated properly.
