Door Panel Removal
#1
Door Panel Removal
Hopefully this helps somebody out there. Once you get to the actual speaker your on your own.
Tools Needed:
1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
Flathead Scredriver
Your fingernail
Est Time:
10 Minutes at most
Step 1-- Start by prying off this door handle cover with your fingernail. Start at the top and work your way down. It does not take alot of force to get off.
Step 2-- Once you get the door handle off there are 2 Phillip screws holding the door handle in place.
One at the top
And one at the bottom.
Step 3 -- Move up to where the actual door lock is. With a flathead screwdriver pull the tab back. Once its pulled back unscrew with Phillips Screwdriver.
Step 4-- Thats all the screws now its time for the clips. Start at the far bottom of the front door. Just pull and work your way down. Theres probably about 15-20 clips. They pop out very easy and go back easy as well.
Step 5-- Disconnect the 2 power window/lock harnesses on backside of door.
What it looks like with the door panel off.
A look at the speaker.
Heres a look at all the clips.
Tools Needed:
1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
Flathead Scredriver
Your fingernail
Est Time:
10 Minutes at most
Step 1-- Start by prying off this door handle cover with your fingernail. Start at the top and work your way down. It does not take alot of force to get off.
Step 2-- Once you get the door handle off there are 2 Phillip screws holding the door handle in place.
One at the top
And one at the bottom.
Step 3 -- Move up to where the actual door lock is. With a flathead screwdriver pull the tab back. Once its pulled back unscrew with Phillips Screwdriver.
Step 4-- Thats all the screws now its time for the clips. Start at the far bottom of the front door. Just pull and work your way down. Theres probably about 15-20 clips. They pop out very easy and go back easy as well.
Step 5-- Disconnect the 2 power window/lock harnesses on backside of door.
What it looks like with the door panel off.
A look at the speaker.
Heres a look at all the clips.
#4
I probably will do the back sometime near the end of this month. I just have to see what i'm gonna do with the whole riveted speaker in the front. Probably gonna make an MDF plate.
#7
SIIICK!!!
You are a GANGSTER!!!! thank you so much for this as i am going to be amping aftermarrkets in the doors... help me out homie, let me know wuts up w the rear panels, cus i have to tap into the rear speakers for high level input to my amp for the subs, im keeping the factory deck thats why... also if you or anyone happens to run into the wiring diagrams.... again thank you , very good work..
#9
Hey, did anyone encounter some kind of safe mode when reconnecting the window and door lock switches? Both of my window switches blinked after I reconnected them and stayed that way until I played with them for a while, it wasn't like a loose wire it was a very consistent blink. And I guess this it is too late for me now, I had some major problems getting that little flip behind the latch off, I kinda ruined the plastic oh well, it's not that noticable. Got the speakers in, now I just gotta plug them in to see if they work wish me luck
#10
Originally Posted by Heyzus
Hey, did anyone encounter some kind of safe mode when reconnecting the window and door lock switches? Both of my window switches blinked after I reconnected them and stayed that way until I played with them for a while, it wasn't like a loose wire it was a very consistent blink.
#14
The fronts are definitly not 5.25" I fit 6.5" Polks in it. I even made a cutout to bring them up to stock height, here's some pics.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/753640
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/753640
#18
Originally Posted by TCguy8
I know this sounds like a stupid question, but how do you get
the speakers out?
the speakers out?
#19
I have a few questions: What size are the speakers and where do you put the cross over? If i want to put dynomat on the doors I should remove all of that plastic right? ....then just dynomat the entire thing?
#20
By the way.. to remove the door handle trim.. if you look carefully on the very bottom of the round thing, you will see an intentional little gap just big enough to fit like the blade of a knife in there and just gently pop it off it start it..
..and yes, to Dynomat, remove plastic barrier. Dynomat the whole thing after taking off wiring harness clips, then just poke holes in Dynomat to put clips back in. Just do it and you will see.. very easy.
Remember though, once you Dynomat the door, those foam blocks on the door panel won't go back in. The foam is very brittle and easy to cut.. I just took a kitchen knife and cut the blocks off where they were connected. The whole job really is not that hard to do.\
Also.. the BEST SPEAKER ADAPTORS in the world are from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=014
They are super high quality hybrid plastic type material, fit perfect, and are designed incredibly. Get a set and you will see.. I wouldn't even f with MDF..
..and yes, to Dynomat, remove plastic barrier. Dynomat the whole thing after taking off wiring harness clips, then just poke holes in Dynomat to put clips back in. Just do it and you will see.. very easy.
Remember though, once you Dynomat the door, those foam blocks on the door panel won't go back in. The foam is very brittle and easy to cut.. I just took a kitchen knife and cut the blocks off where they were connected. The whole job really is not that hard to do.\
Also.. the BEST SPEAKER ADAPTORS in the world are from this guy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=014
They are super high quality hybrid plastic type material, fit perfect, and are designed incredibly. Get a set and you will see.. I wouldn't even f with MDF..