Typhoon

Well since winter I ve been having the same problem that some others have with shifting to second when its cold and the car making a grinding or clunking sound. I noticed that it doesnt happen when you downshift when its cold from 3rd to 2nd so this is the solution to when its cold if you are afraid of damaging anythign in your car(have no clue if that sound is bad but iam paranoid about everything thats abnormal). Double Clutch when shifting from first to second. It will go on in second a little hard but there will be no cluinking or grinding sound.

Double Clutching explained - Double clutching is a technique used for more advanced driving techniques. Intead of putting the car from one gear to the next it adds an extra step. Clutch down shift to nutral and release the clutch, here you can rev match if you are downshifting fast so you dont get that jerk you do when downshifting above 2500 rpm to a lower gear but its just not necessary for what I am tryign to acomplish (get rid of the clunking sound) so after going to nutral without doing anything else you just push the clutch again and shift to second and no grinding. For those getting that same clunking/grinding sound in second hope this works for you as well.

Iam going to use this method until I change my transmission oil to synthetic and see if that gets rid of the clunking.

THansenite

I double clutch a lot in daily driving. Partially to ease the stress on my transmission, partially because it is fun and adds a little excitement to my daily commute.

Another thing I read on the boards a while back is when you start it up and it is cold out, before you put it in gear and go, hold in the clutch and run through all of the gears a couple of times. It helps loosen things up and seems to eliminate grinding because of a cold transmission.

Typhoon

^^Thanks I ve been thinking of trying that actully while I start it up. I usually give it a minute or so to warm up anyways.

unlimited77

^^^ or just go redline mt 90 syn tranny fluid, and its literally gone.

Yablargo

id just like to add that yes, when its REALLY cold out I double clutch the car now and no grinding. Seems weird but it feels liek it warms up *properly* quicker this way, as it doesnt grind after a min or so driving this way.

Yablargo

When changing to redline mt90, will my first drain get enough of the original fluid out or should I change again a few K after that?

stefPap1120

Just a friendly addon to Typhoon's explanation of double-clutching. Technically it does reduce stress on your drivetrain overall, and reduces the jerk experienced when the torque is transferred to the diff/axle. However, the original nessecity for double-clutching came about before the 'modern' era of transmission design. Old trannies needed to be shifted to neutral and have the clutch engaged so that when the driver shifted into the desired gear the collar and the gears/layshaft were spinning at the same rate. Without this the collar would either not engage into the gear or the collar/gear would grind/break. This problem has been solved on newer transmissions however. A tapered cone interface has been added to the collar and gears. This tapered interface uses friction to spin the two parts up to the same speed prior to engagement to prevent problems. To really feel this at work, get into 5th revving at 2k-3k or higher. Shift into 4th being very light on the shifter and feel the engagement. Then go back into 5th and then try shifting into 1st (don't engage clutch ;) no broken Scions here) but feel the increased resistence as the collar is spun to engine RPM before easy engagement is made. Just remember to feel this you really need to be light on the shifter, no muscle at all.

SpdLmtNA

you really dont need to double clutch... you can hold the clutch pedal all the way down (therefore being disengaged from the flywheel) and rev it a little still... I think double clutching is too much effort for cars with synchros, but your way works too