AZUMS

Waking up an old thread.. And this post is most helpful. I like the photo's.
I first would like to say THANKS for posting detailed photo's.

And now for my EVAP lights that came on, VCS/TRAC/Chk Eng Lights all
came on as others have stated in this thread.. and about 5 Codes came up.
Unfortunately I did not write them down, but know they all referred to the
EVAP emission BS :?

I just bought our 2006 Scion xB via Ebay. The vehicle came from Florida
and considering all the rain/storms they get there I can understand why
the light(s) may have come on. However, I live in Arizona (aka HELL) where
it's dry for the most part. Upon receiving the vehicle there were no problems.
However, after passing the emissions test AT THE STATION, the light came
on just as I was leaving.

My first Question is.. could the pressure test have blown something out, like a
hose or something like it? I replaced the gap cap to rule it out and reset the
computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 5+ minutes.
Needless to say, I've performed the reset a few times now and still the same.

I pulled the canister out from underneath the rear of the vehicle (bad place)
and pulled the valve body off (the actual part that the wire/computer plugs into)
and I saw a small rust color streak running down the inside of the plastic,
However, the unit was/is completely dry (canister is dry too).

I'm wondering can I just replace the valve/plug-in part, or am I SOL and
do I have to buy the entire canister?
I pulled the part numbers off the side of the valve body.. there are two..
First one is a Toyota number; 90910-14002
Second one is a Denso number; 082100-0020
There is another number on the tube side; ">PBT-G30<". I'm not sure what
that is for.

Any more continued help would be greatful.. OR maybe someone is having
the same problem too.

PLEASE POST UP MORE HELP.

jjv

I'm following as well, having the same issue.

smartestartist

After spending hours searching this forum and others regarding the charcoal canister replacement, I'm finally posting as I think I have to give in and shell out for this repair. sigh.
It sounds to me, from this thread and another (https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sci...anister-57805/) that this is a known and sometimes recurring - and maddening - issue.

I got my xA about 2 years ago and the Check Engine Light and related codes popped up pretty soon after purchase. I have to get the vehicle smoged in October and I'm begrudgingly looking into my options around getting rid of that stupid light.
I have found that disconnecting the battery works to get the light off for a couple days but a permanent solution would be nice.

Interestingly, I also found a bunch of information on a RAV4 forum, as this canister was also an issue with the RAV4. that seems to have been resolved by Toyota by Installing a Charcoal Canister SHIELD in all later RAV4 models.
There are also a couple posts peppered in to the Scion threads that mention this shield as a more certain and permanent solution (or as much as there can be one for a vehicle with so many moving parts!) and avoiding making the same repair over and over.

I am guessing, since the xA hasn't been made for a long time, there may not be a part number for this and maybe the dealers that fixed the vehicles of the folks that mentioned shields on this forum just improvised something.
Those members haven't been active in years though I have sent them PMs.

I'm curious if anyone has any information on whether i can order a shield that will actually fit over the xA canister, or any ideas on how to fabricate one (before Toyota started making them, some enterprising RAV4 owners did that!).
It just doesn't make sense to me to install a new canister if there is a good chance it will fail. I'd rather figure out the shield thing. maybe I can just duct tape a ziplock bag around the stupid thing to keep the water out, I dunno.
I see that the new Scion iA has a part listed on it's warranty that might be compatible - a "fuel tank inlet shield" - though I know little about the iA and how similar it might be to the xA.

Thoughts?

_____

an_owned_guy

For anyone interested here was my was of ghetto fixing it. Thats just a tube from a bicycle tire with a zip tie. I'm assuming no water can splash up that far. inch and half radiator hose or something similar probably would work to.

birdaaayyy

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I have an 08 Scion tC and I've been dealing with my CEL for quite some time now. I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of my DTC. I recently replaced both my upstream and downstream O2 sensors, multiple times mind you, and just as I'm about to have my car inspected my CEL comes back on. Now I'm getting codes for my Evap System. P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419. I'm guessing it's because it rained yesterday and today? I just spent $174 on my upstream sensor and can't afford to replace anything else at this time. I cleared my codes again, hoping my CEL will stay off long enough to get it inspected this afternoon.

Any input would be much appreciated.

_____

OhArchie

This thread is great - many answers and the specific part #'s definitely help. I have a rather odd experience that I hope can help other people with this issue in the future.

I had all the same codes as the original poster and many others here. CEL, ABS, TRACS lights on dash. I pulled the canister and filter assemblies to inspect and test them.

I shook about half a shot glass full of dirt and sand out of the filter, which was a bit odd. I could blow through it without much resistance. I could blow through the canister without resistance as well.

I was unable to remove the pump/valve from the canister because the bolts were seized and the bolt mounts were spinning inside the plastic casing. I had the unit clamped with the valve pointed upwards on my bench while I tried to free the valve and I left it that way overnight.

The next day I was either going to cut the heads off of the bolts or just buy a new unit. Looked at the situation for a minute and decided to just buy a new one. So I put the old one back on the car, cleared the codes and drove it.

I've been driving it for a week and the codes have not returned! Normally they would come back after 3 starts.

What I think may have happened is that inverting the canister assembly with the valve on top and letting it sit overnight may have allowed the valve to drain itself of whatever drops of water were in the orifice blocking the air flow, thus causing the codes. When mounted to the car horizontally, as it spends most of its time, the water would just stay in the valve.

I have some tape over the breather holes in the fuel tank filler pipe holder and have the new holder pieces on order. I'll install those next week. If the codes come back I'll post here.

Pulling the canister and letting it sit upright for 12 hours is a pretty free and easy potential fix and worth a shot to anyone else having this issue.