alienvictim

Since some of you asked here's the best build/driving video I can do until I break in my motor fully and get a decent
ems to run.. shows the car driving and boosting a bit.. but best of all no wheel spin at all where it
would have been screeching around corners..


This has a song from "kill switch engage" "the end of heartache" in the background

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ORIGINAL POST.

Well I'm posting because I'm ready to, basically the past 2 months i have been
building an AWD Scion tC. But using mostly modified factory parts..

Stuff mainly from the ST185, and the ST205 Celica GT4..

Pretty much everything on the car has been changed out or heavily modified to accommodate this setup...

The engine was sold to me for a good deal by Travis Rhodes. I rebuilt it using Carillo rods,
JE 9:1 pistons, Cometic headgasket, ARP headstuds, ACL bearings acrossed the board. etc etc..

ACT 4 Puck clutch, Fidanza flywheel.. ST185 transmission which I got for dirt cheap (200 bucks)
because no one in the states needs them.. ended up working perfect.

The front axles are from an ST205, and yeah they input into the tC front hubs just fine, but
overall the steering rack needs to be modified to raise it over the center differential.. there's
more of course but its a long story lol

The back end of the car is also ST205 parts including the axles, knuckles, subframe,
etc.. (the subframe needs heavy modification to work in the tC.. )
the lower suspension control arms were made from scratch. and utilize
parts from the tC's original subframe.

Why didn't I just buy stuff from the ST246w, well a gas tank is 600 dollars..
the subframe 400 dollars.. every little part from the Caldina is crazy expensive..
and your best bet is to just import one.. but I lucked out and got everything
from Canada for 1000 bucks.

Another thing is the engine.. in order to pass smog I opted out on the 3SG-TE
and stuck with the 2AZ-FE.. frankly under boost they behave very similar
and can output similar power and torque levels. so i just built the crap
out of it and am in the process of finalizing break in.

And to finalize speculation yes with modification the 2AZ-FE will fit the all
track transmission pattern (3SG-TE) with the exception on one bolt hole
that's off.. but can be redrilled on the block side. you also have to
clearance metal from the side of the engine and the center
differential...and than assemble the trans as you put the
motor onto it.. which is a PITA.

I'm not 100% sure but i think this is the first time the 2AZ-FE has been
mated to any of the GT4 transmissions..

Well here it is some pictures and a video.

A pic of my car, ugly and crazy.. stance !@#$ beware





Test fitting the motor to the transmission



Fitting the JE pistons



Here's the motor trans rack and sway bar all assembled.



Here's a pic of the underside of the car.



Another pic of mating the trans and motor



And here's the LSD ST205 Rear Diff subframe and axles/knuckles..heavy modification was needed to make this work btw.



And a video proving it drives.. still need to put insurance back on it and finish break in.. but as far as it goes its an AWD Scion tC.
I think the second first Gen done aside from Chris Rado's.. I may be wrong but I have never heard of it.. but again I stay off the forums..

also I'm still tuning it so that's why the gentle driving.
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Peace.

r2d2michael

Great job! Can't wait to see it!

criminaltc

Hahahaha no f.ckin way dude. That is hands down awesome. Please keep us posted. I need to see a four wheel burn out. F.ck STi's and Evo's, you own this!

alienvictim

thanks man, i will keep you updated.. one thing i would like to stress is that with a 3sgte bellhousing mated to a w58 trans.. or a r154 or even a getrag, comined with a supra rear diff.. you could achieve a setup that will pass emissions and be rwd.. same principles just a lot of work

Adorian

I never thought I'd see the day someone made an AWD tC. This looks amazing and took a phenomenal amount of knowledge and dedication. Good job dude.

alienvictim

Thanks lady if it was easy it wouldn't be worth it.

robbiej

You da man sir, very sweet indeed.

alienvictim

thanks brother!

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

Bravo.

alienvictim

thanks man, im kinda feeling like i should be hearing crickets in the distance..

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

Do you wanna help me get a parts list together for mine? Or help me find some donor parts. It's paid off and I just got a mig welder. Ready to start hacking

alienvictim

(rough list, if you buy these items expect this to not be a straightforward conversion.. also this is on you if you mess up etc etc etc.. i take no responsibility for you or your inability to build a car.)

well i have to be honest all of the stuff i used had to be heavily modified.. and at the time
i didnt know that..so it was a half gamble and half my ability to actually get stuff to work..

things you need and what i would reccomend if you are going to do this.. because believe
me it was 4-5 month total just planning and two straight months of coming home from
work and doing nothing but working on this..

ok laundry list of how i would have done this given the choice and the money..

ok so real fast, there are a few different caldina models that our tcs originate from:

1: the st246 which has the beams 3sge. it is a fwd only variation that our tcs
are derived from.. so basically almost everything under the car is the same barring
the block and maybe trans.. this is not the caldina you want parts from.. the
subframe in this car from the front to the rear is identical..

2: the st246W CALDINA which has the newer 3sgte and the automatic
awd trans.. THIS IS THE CAR YOU WANT SOME PARTS FROM

St246w parts
.rear subframe (HOPEFULLY COMPLETE) with knuckles, arms, axles, and diff.
.front subframe you may need to find a left had drive caldina if possible for the
steering components.. the steering rack sits 9 inches above the center differential of
the transmission.. i had to make risers to raise my stock rack above it.
so i reused my steering rack.
.(maybe front axles) unsure if these are cross compatible with any of the other
gt-four transmissions as most of them are manual.
.gas tank or fuel cell.. (fuel cell will not pass evap, so you will fail smog)
.driveshaft (although being auto it may have a weird yoke on the end)
.carrier bearing mounts to the frame for the driveshaft..
wheel speed sensors for the rear.

this way you wont have to shove the massive st205 subframe under your car like i did, i
also had to make strut mount that were compatible with the frame because the celica
gtfour has struts on the rear like the struts in the front of the tc.

so now for other parts to source..

the st205 transmission is really good, better synchros and better shifting, i used an
st185 transmission from an older celica gt four.. it cost me 200 dollars and i bought
it to see if the 2az-fe would even mount to it.. and it did..

st205 front axles. yes these input directly into the tc's front knuckles. you will need
to steal the tone rings from your old axles and install them on your front st205 axles.
or else ABS and speedometer functions will trip cels and not work.
EDIT (you need to either machine the axles, or find large enough washers to fill
the gap between the axle face and the bearing.. or else you WILL develop
slop in your knuckles. also use red loctite on the tone rings as they
don't fit fully snug on the axles and you cannot rely on a compression fit
alone)..

st205 rear differential (it is lsd and most of the caldina st246ws are open)

the good news.. you can splice the rear wheel speed sensors directly into your old tc
wheel speed sensor harnesses. this is important because this is actually what
determines speed on our cars. the st185 transmission i installed had a provision for
a 3 prong speedometer circuit.. but i never needed to use it.

technically this is good because you could easily convert the car to rwd as well
doing this and not lose dash functionality.

the knuckles in the fron need to be modified as well to fix the steering issues that
are caused when the rack is raised up.. and you will need to make new engine
mounts in order to get the motor and trans to sit properly..

as far as other parts they way i described it should be pretty plug and play.

if you go my route you will be making a lot of stuff....a lot. lol..

have any more questions ask away.

alienvictim

so far so good, have been doing break in. the motor is strong as !@#$ going to be moving boost from 13 psi to about 19 soon. although the block can handle a lot more.. i want to raise it gradually since i street tune.

the AWD system works amazing and is about 70% better all around.. rainy weather.. tons of grip..

this thing is a beast.

criminaltc

More vids, more vids!!!

hata

iTrader: (1)

the dream is real =)

AWD is so awesome and man that is no easy task. That's great to know you can use Celica GT4 parts. Keep us updated on the unique & awesome build! For RWD, I'd assume it would be just half the list of items on there.

alienvictim

Sounds good will do soon lol

Absolutely. Toyota made transmission conversion idiot proof. You litteraly splice 4 wires to retain Speedo functionality. And yeah you can use gt4 parts but I would strongly recommend the GT4 Caldina fuel tank, subframe, and driveshaft if your going to do any of this.

Thanks again im glad that this project makes people hopeful.. Scion owners need to know that our cars aren't what people think, and there are as many options for us as there are for Honda's and pretty much every other car.

Tshock

iTrader: (2)

Would the caldina tank be able to use the stock filler location? Did you make any modifications to the transmission tunnel for the rear drives haft?

alienvictim

I'm pretty sure it would, the frames are identical pan wise. so the filler
neck should route however.. but i can't see it being a horribly hard thing
to adapt if on the odd chance it isn't compatible considering the filler
tube actually runs along the inside of the driver rear wheel well and
is protected by a plastic fascia (kind of a skid plate).

and a lot of parts from other cars are actually compatible. this is why
I was able to order ("had to" I should say) rear brake lines from a
completely different vehicle because my rear calipers are on the
opposite side of the rotors now.

so i use the rear brake lines from a Toyota Avalon SUV.

another bonus speaking of breaks is the GT4 brakes are as big as
the Willwood kits.. with a 4 pot calipers in the front and 2
pots (I believe) in the rear.

as far at the tunnel.. no i didn't have to modify the tunnel with the
exception that i flipped my front swaybar upside down and made
risers for it to go over the center differential on the front transmission.
the curved portion of the swaybar was hitting the opening of the
tunnel so i did a little bit of pounding.

If you attempt a RWD conversion you may luck out using a W58 TRANS
with a 3sgte bellhousing space wise. but anything larger may need a
lot of tunnel work as the tunnel was never intended to house a
full RWD transmission..

but don't lose hope.. just pull out a measuring tape and find all of the
dimensions you may need. if the tunnel needs work... read up and hop to it..

also most of the GT4s I believe have 3 piece drive-shafts so it makes
clearing the tank/tunnel etc a lot easier. but i did however have to
modify the stock tC gas tank to work, yes you can make the stock
tank work with a driveshaft like i did (AGAIN MASSIVE WORK). but
i would go with a IS300 tank or really any AWD/RWD Toyota fuel
tank (LS250, anything where the filler input is on the same side as
the tC and the overall dimensions for the space are similar)

one last note about the driveshafts.. the Celica ST205 is actually shorter
from front hub to back hub.. so a drive shaft may need to be modified
and lengthened i had to add 7,1/4 inches to mine for it to reach properly.

this is why i keep recommending eom Caldina ST246W parts
as opposed to the ST205 gear.. so much less modification and work
involved to make this project doable.

alienvictim

just a quick note about the st205 front axles. they have machined splines that
arent the same length as the tc axles so the shaft going to the knuckle will bind
and the hub will be loose even when tightened with an impact tool..

so instead buy two large washers that are the size of the bearing and use them
to space the bearing so the knuckle bearing and spindle actually tighten up. or
else you will have wheel slop..

you could also have the axles machined but that would be prohibitively costly and
why do that when you can shim it with a washer and fix the problem for 2 dollars
and 50 cents?

inner diameter measurements are around 1-2/8ths the outer diameter is
around 2-1/8ths of an inch.

hata

iTrader: (1)

an with the ole' ST246W caldina, no such thing has to be modded? I already read a lot on this mod but, it almost sounds like the caldina is perfect swappage/use of parts.