Part by Part first Gen tC
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
Part by Part first Gen tC
Hello,
This thread is for those like my self who are doing things to their tC's part by part. This is anything from LED lights to well there are no limits. Consider this a show off thread if you must. All in all its a chance to gain new ideas and to get new ideas for your tC. This thread is even for those who already have a lot done to their tC's and may have the chance to modify or add something to what they already have. I know as well as anyone ____ happens and you get tight on money so you go part by part. HAVE FUN WITH IT!!! CREATIVITY IS KEY!!!
Sorry for the long intro!
This thread is for those like my self who are doing things to their tC's part by part. This is anything from LED lights to well there are no limits. Consider this a show off thread if you must. All in all its a chance to gain new ideas and to get new ideas for your tC. This thread is even for those who already have a lot done to their tC's and may have the chance to modify or add something to what they already have. I know as well as anyone ____ happens and you get tight on money so you go part by part. HAVE FUN WITH IT!!! CREATIVITY IS KEY!!!
Sorry for the long intro!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
What I have done to My tC!
Here are some things I have done:
LED Parking Lights:
[IMG]
[/IMG]
ZXR Low beam bulbs:
I do not have pics yet but I got four Blue LED light bars two in front and two in the back, Carbon fiber interior, exterior (on the doors), under the hood. I can not wait until Friday when i get my CAI and my LED's for the license plate. TRD exhaust is also on there.
LED Parking Lights:
[IMG]
ZXR Low beam bulbs:
I do not have pics yet but I got four Blue LED light bars two in front and two in the back, Carbon fiber interior, exterior (on the doors), under the hood. I can not wait until Friday when i get my CAI and my LED's for the license plate. TRD exhaust is also on there.
When my tC was with me, I did this to it. And made 299WHP and 295WTQ on 9 psi
then installed custom 3" s-pipe back exhaust.
After few month this happened to it:
Then i got these new parts:
ERL fully built/sleeved short block, Dezod built head with titanium retainers, valves, BC stage 2 turbo cams, Precision 60 mm turbo, Hydra EMS stand alone ECU, Ptuning fuel return system, Ptuning 900cc injectors, Wilwood Big Brake Kit, several sets of wheels etc.
And then i put this power down.
And my beast is quietly resting at my parent's driveway in NYC awaiting for my return, new timing chain tensioner, few month of driving and for sale sign !
then installed custom 3" s-pipe back exhaust.
After few month this happened to it:
Then i got these new parts:
ERL fully built/sleeved short block, Dezod built head with titanium retainers, valves, BC stage 2 turbo cams, Precision 60 mm turbo, Hydra EMS stand alone ECU, Ptuning fuel return system, Ptuning 900cc injectors, Wilwood Big Brake Kit, several sets of wheels etc.
And then i put this power down.
And my beast is quietly resting at my parent's driveway in NYC awaiting for my return, new timing chain tensioner, few month of driving and for sale sign !
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,731
From: Minneapolis, MN
I have done multiple things with my 05, but after the first year or two it was mainly regarding making it handle better since it became my autox vehicle as well as the daily driver 
Asthetically, I have done a few different led swaps on the dash. Back when I was one of the few doing them on the tC, I tended to change mine up from time to time since I always had the parts around. Currently it is an all blue led swap with backlit red needles on the gauges, blue/red fade on the temp control **** and blue screen with red buttons on the OEM head unit.
Figure upper and lower grills with OEM fogs (with blue rockblocker film)
Shorty antenna of course
Lowered (part of the handling list as well)
Doctor Isotope short shifter
Doctor Isotope radiator plate
Hotchkis front strut tie
As for the autox stuff, I have gone from stock, to TRD to my current suspension setup, including stock, trd and the current rear sway
:
Tein SS-P's, set to lower the car approximately 1.5 inches (much lower and you are well out of the sweet spot for this cars geometry).
Corner balanced
I have played around with alignment settings. I tend to keep toe within manufactured spec since I daily drive it. Camber for the street is set to about -1.5 degrees up front and -1.25 in the rear normally. For autox events, I set the fronts to about -2.75 degrees. Camber plates are nice
Dan Gardner spec Progress rear sway bar, set to full stiff. Stock front sway.
Sparco 4 point harness. Just used for autox events. Makes a HUGE difference when you can concentrate on actually driving and not trying to hold your upper body in place!
Stock wheels still, with a separate set of stockers with my RS3's for autox/summer driving.
As for the future on this car, it kind of depends.
If I move to SMF, which I possibly will since my class is getting smaller due to class re-org and I already would be very competitive in SMF even with no boost, then I possibly will go with an LSD next and then maybe boost later.
If I stay in the ST* classes, then I cant run the LSD. But either way the next big mod will likely be a custom set of coilovers. probably using Koni dampers modified as coilovers, torrington bearings, hyperco springs and camber plates. I have a bit of geometry to still work out on the car when I have some time. I know approximations for most of it that plenty of others have used, but would like to get a closer handle on the rear motion ratio through some direct measurements before I do it. However, I likely will run close to 400lb front springs and 600lb rear.
Obviously, making the car turn better has trumped most other mods to it for me
Asthetically, I have done a few different led swaps on the dash. Back when I was one of the few doing them on the tC, I tended to change mine up from time to time since I always had the parts around. Currently it is an all blue led swap with backlit red needles on the gauges, blue/red fade on the temp control **** and blue screen with red buttons on the OEM head unit.
Figure upper and lower grills with OEM fogs (with blue rockblocker film)
Shorty antenna of course
Lowered (part of the handling list as well)
Doctor Isotope short shifter
Doctor Isotope radiator plate
Hotchkis front strut tie
As for the autox stuff, I have gone from stock, to TRD to my current suspension setup, including stock, trd and the current rear sway
:Tein SS-P's, set to lower the car approximately 1.5 inches (much lower and you are well out of the sweet spot for this cars geometry).
Corner balanced
I have played around with alignment settings. I tend to keep toe within manufactured spec since I daily drive it. Camber for the street is set to about -1.5 degrees up front and -1.25 in the rear normally. For autox events, I set the fronts to about -2.75 degrees. Camber plates are nice
Dan Gardner spec Progress rear sway bar, set to full stiff. Stock front sway.
Sparco 4 point harness. Just used for autox events. Makes a HUGE difference when you can concentrate on actually driving and not trying to hold your upper body in place!
Stock wheels still, with a separate set of stockers with my RS3's for autox/summer driving.
As for the future on this car, it kind of depends.
If I move to SMF, which I possibly will since my class is getting smaller due to class re-org and I already would be very competitive in SMF even with no boost, then I possibly will go with an LSD next and then maybe boost later.
If I stay in the ST* classes, then I cant run the LSD. But either way the next big mod will likely be a custom set of coilovers. probably using Koni dampers modified as coilovers, torrington bearings, hyperco springs and camber plates. I have a bit of geometry to still work out on the car when I have some time. I know approximations for most of it that plenty of others have used, but would like to get a closer handle on the rear motion ratio through some direct measurements before I do it. However, I likely will run close to 400lb front springs and 600lb rear.
Obviously, making the car turn better has trumped most other mods to it for me
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,731
From: Minneapolis, MN
Currently at 390f/559r so it wont be much worse:p not to mention the pillowball mounts up front that transmit more road feel. It is and will be on the edge of what i want to deal with on the daily drive, but it is worth it for autox. If i didnt do that, i would likely go back to a softer setup.
900/600 would be best for autox and track use i think, but that is too high of a suspension frequency for the street
The rears need to be that mich stiffer due to the weight distribution and the large difference in motion ratio front to rear.
900/600 would be best for autox and track use i think, but that is too high of a suspension frequency for the street
The rears need to be that mich stiffer due to the weight distribution and the large difference in motion ratio front to rear.
Last edited by engifineer; Jan 21, 2012 at 01:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
I have done multiple things with my 05, but after the first year or two it was mainly regarding making it handle better since it became my autox vehicle as well as the daily driver
Asthetically, I have done a few different led swaps on the dash. Back when I was one of the few doing them on the tC, I tended to change mine up from time to time since I always had the parts around. Currently it is an all blue led swap with backlit red needles on the gauges, blue/red fade on the temp control **** and blue screen with red buttons on the OEM head unit.
Figure upper and lower grills with OEM fogs (with blue rockblocker film)
Shorty antenna of course
Lowered (part of the handling list as well)
Doctor Isotope short shifter
Doctor Isotope radiator plate
Hotchkis front strut tie
As for the autox stuff, I have gone from stock, to TRD to my current suspension setup, including stock, trd and the current rear sway :
Tein SS-P's, set to lower the car approximately 1.5 inches (much lower and you are well out of the sweet spot for this cars geometry).
Corner balanced
I have played around with alignment settings. I tend to keep toe within manufactured spec since I daily drive it. Camber for the street is set to about -1.5 degrees up front and -1.25 in the rear normally. For autox events, I set the fronts to about -2.75 degrees. Camber plates are nice
Dan Gardner spec Progress rear sway bar, set to full stiff. Stock front sway.
Sparco 4 point harness. Just used for autox events. Makes a HUGE difference when you can concentrate on actually driving and not trying to hold your upper body in place!
Stock wheels still, with a separate set of stockers with my RS3's for autox/summer driving.
As for the future on this car, it kind of depends.
If I move to SMF, which I possibly will since my class is getting smaller due to class re-org and I already would be very competitive in SMF even with no boost, then I possibly will go with an LSD next and then maybe boost later.
If I stay in the ST* classes, then I cant run the LSD. But either way the next big mod will likely be a custom set of coilovers. probably using Koni dampers modified as coilovers, torrington bearings, hyperco springs and camber plates. I have a bit of geometry to still work out on the car when I have some time. I know approximations for most of it that plenty of others have used, but would like to get a closer handle on the rear motion ratio through some direct measurements before I do it. However, I likely will run close to 400lb front springs and 600lb rear.
Obviously, making the car turn better has trumped most other mods to it for me
Asthetically, I have done a few different led swaps on the dash. Back when I was one of the few doing them on the tC, I tended to change mine up from time to time since I always had the parts around. Currently it is an all blue led swap with backlit red needles on the gauges, blue/red fade on the temp control **** and blue screen with red buttons on the OEM head unit.
Figure upper and lower grills with OEM fogs (with blue rockblocker film)
Shorty antenna of course
Lowered (part of the handling list as well)
Doctor Isotope short shifter
Doctor Isotope radiator plate
Hotchkis front strut tie
As for the autox stuff, I have gone from stock, to TRD to my current suspension setup, including stock, trd and the current rear sway
:Tein SS-P's, set to lower the car approximately 1.5 inches (much lower and you are well out of the sweet spot for this cars geometry).
Corner balanced
I have played around with alignment settings. I tend to keep toe within manufactured spec since I daily drive it. Camber for the street is set to about -1.5 degrees up front and -1.25 in the rear normally. For autox events, I set the fronts to about -2.75 degrees. Camber plates are nice
Dan Gardner spec Progress rear sway bar, set to full stiff. Stock front sway.
Sparco 4 point harness. Just used for autox events. Makes a HUGE difference when you can concentrate on actually driving and not trying to hold your upper body in place!
Stock wheels still, with a separate set of stockers with my RS3's for autox/summer driving.
As for the future on this car, it kind of depends.
If I move to SMF, which I possibly will since my class is getting smaller due to class re-org and I already would be very competitive in SMF even with no boost, then I possibly will go with an LSD next and then maybe boost later.
If I stay in the ST* classes, then I cant run the LSD. But either way the next big mod will likely be a custom set of coilovers. probably using Koni dampers modified as coilovers, torrington bearings, hyperco springs and camber plates. I have a bit of geometry to still work out on the car when I have some time. I know approximations for most of it that plenty of others have used, but would like to get a closer handle on the rear motion ratio through some direct measurements before I do it. However, I likely will run close to 400lb front springs and 600lb rear.
Obviously, making the car turn better has trumped most other mods to it for me
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,731
From: Minneapolis, MN
Kind of an ongoing process over the 7years I have had the car. Suspension changes came as I autocrossed more and figured out more what the car needed. I swapped my gauge leds in 04 and the hvac in 05 once I got the mod together for that. I think I went back and changed the gauge needles to red sometime in 05 and then later came back maybe the next year and added separate backlighting to them since I was testing ways to better install the color changing needles. My gauges and hvac were sort of a test bed while i was doinf led swaps :p other stuff just came along as i thought if it. Bought the fig grilles as part of a group buy when they came out, doc iso shifter after he started doing them, s2k antenna cause a guy had one for 9 bucks, etc. Just kind of here and there.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
Kind of an ongoing process over the 7years I have had the car. Suspension changes came as I autocrossed more and figured out more what the car needed. I swapped my gauge leds in 04 and the hvac in 05 once I got the mod together for that. I think I went back and changed the gauge needles to red sometime in 05 and then later came back maybe the next year and added separate backlighting to them since I was testing ways to better install the color changing needles. My gauges and hvac were sort of a test bed while i was doinf led swaps :p other stuff just came along as i thought if it. Bought the fig grilles as part of a group buy when they came out, doc iso shifter after he started doing them, s2k antenna cause a guy had one for 9 bucks, etc. Just kind of here and there.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
New part
Hey guys just got my Short Ram I am different on how things are done so I did this less than 60$:
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
Last edited by Vladislav; Jan 25, 2012 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Had CAI instead of Short Ram
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,731
From: Minneapolis, MN
Thats a short ram actually. A cai runs all the way into the fender down near the bumper. I would be concerned with how close that filter is to the maf. It creates turbulence at the maf. Also, do not run an oiled filter with that setup, it will foul the maf, again from being so close. You definitely need a dry charge filter.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
Thats a short ram actually. A cai runs all the way into the fender down near the bumper. I would be concerned with how close that filter is to the maf. It creates turbulence at the maf. Also, do not run an oiled filter with that setup, it will foul the maf, again from being so close. You definitely need a dry charge filter.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
I'll have to look into the dry charge filter. And yeah its a short ram wasn't really paying attention to what i was typing about sorry about that. But yeah now that its mentioned having that close to the MAF could be a problem. Do you think making the tube a little longer would suffice?
http://everythingcarparts.com/HPS_07...take_Blue.html
Its on this link^^^^
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 302
From: Oregon
New part
Hey guys Just installed my LED bulbs for the interior and plate lights:
Blue LED Dome Lights Rear and Front And I Did The Trunk Too (Map lights are White LED)
White LED Plate Lights
8000k HID Kit compared to sylvania bulb
Blue LED Dome Lights Rear and Front And I Did The Trunk Too (Map lights are White LED)
White LED Plate Lights
8000k HID Kit compared to sylvania bulb
Last edited by Vladislav; Feb 7, 2012 at 11:38 AM. Reason: Added new things
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 503
From: Pac-NW
Lookin' great Vlad 
Oh, & cold-air or short-ram, lets not weigh ourselfs down in too many pedantic technicalities. The point was you did a mod to your tC (always cool!) & even better you used ingenuity & on the cheap too. That rocks!
Oh, & cold-air or short-ram, lets not weigh ourselfs down in too many pedantic technicalities. The point was you did a mod to your tC (always cool!) & even better you used ingenuity & on the cheap too. That rocks!
