no my headstuds are just 75ft lbs. the rod bolts were 25 ft lbs then 55 degrees as per K1 (Carillo).

 

word...go with what arp says...I will say i was able to go 80ftlbs on marcials headstuds without any issues. just saying you have some leway but stick to what arp recommends.

 

cool just as i thought, just wanna be sure im good skipping that extra 90 degree step on the manual

 

Wow, no measurement were taken at all in this? No machining or cylinder honing? You didn't even get the block wash? Balance shaft delete without getting the rotationg assembly balanced. Man, why do people cut corners on engine work, an expensive way to learn a lesson. Don't tell me you are going to run an emange blue with it? Good Luck.

 

im pretty sure he did necessary measurements.. but looks like he just showed all about engine assembly not the entire engine build.. its a guide not a step by step DIY for dummies

 

I used a ruler.

 

any possible way i can get this same manifold made? Im doing a very similar build!!! very!!

 

How many people have actually used this?

 

Not sure, but its a great read. Thanks a lot for posting it.

 

i planned on using it mike why do you ask? i just got caught up changing turbo kits instead building my block.

 

Just curious.

 

Thanks for this write up. Will be much easier to put my engine back together.

 

Great write up! Did you plasti gauge the bearings to insure proper clearance?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

I hope to one day have the time and space to do teardown and rebuld of my engine, this will be my manual. Great work/DIY!!

 

wanting to buy a tc engine/ 2azfe motor so that I can take it apart and build. I only want to buy one if its cheap, if it burns oil thats oil etc, thats ok. I just want a cheap one that is worth rebuilding. to learn on and maybe use.. anyone know of any cheapos?

 

My mechanic did some work on the Heads, when he put the Cam Caps back on, is there a specific order that they have to go in.

 

Great write up. Awesome build. Never got the chance to do mine before I sold it so it was nice seeing the build process on this motor.

 

After 90k miles (50K of them with a S/C) I've started noticing a metalic tick while at idle/low rpm. I'm guessing that something is now out of alignment or breaking/broken.

Thankfully I recentlly acquired my new DailyDriver (95' Subaru Legacy Outback) so I can put the tC up on blocks and start tearing the engine apart. While I'm in there looking for the problem I'll be doing some serious overhaul and maybe some part swapping to handle the higher HP, since the stock 2ZA-FE doesn't do well past ~250hp.

Might start my own thread on the work, but it won't be done any time soon. I'll be using whatever time I can find.

While the S/C is removed, I'll be doing a rebuild on it too!

 

Planning to update this with part numbers and a torque spec/clearance reference sheet.

 

They are numbered.