so.. went to a couple of local machine shops today (for you Long Islanders PM me for locations if u dont know) and got a quote for 295 for the intake manifold and about 400 for a valve job so your basically lookin at 700 or so to work the head not including any extra parts you may want to install...

...one of the guys told me that unless someone asks you if where you want to make the power (low,mid,high) they dont know what theyre doing and their just gonna rip u off and do a ____ty job...b/c u need a "flow machine" to see how its flowing and work from there in order to do it properly..SO DONT GET RIPPED OFF!! and thats about it...one of the guys told me the 700 quote i got was damn good so this should be a basis for what you wan to pay...can anyone else back me up on this....

Considering that we've got a 2.4l i think really helping this thing breathe would be a great mod to consider...

 

so are you basically talking about boring out the head to make a 2.6l or 2.7l?"

 

2.6/2.7 is probably a lil extreme, not assuming that you intend that. This is directed at "TheKnown". Jotech only put it up to a 2.5 and they are going for power. So I assume that 2.5L is the max that you want to push.

 

you cant bore out the head.. only the block.. you can do headwork or port and polish it.. plus if you bore out the block youll need new pistons and then you might as well get new rods too.. all that equals A LOT OF MONEY.. that guy that qouted you about all that probably doesnt know what hes doing either because i thought our intake manifolds werent made of metal.. i thought they were plastic.. you cant do work on plastic unless theyve figured something out.. you can prob get some headwork done for like 200-500 dollars depending on the machine shop.. ask for the port and polish, your only looking at a 1-5 hp gain.. sometimes it all depends on how the engine likes it

 

thats riiight our IM's are plastic.... wtf is up with that by the way... n e ways... he said about 700 for the minor head work though and somebody else quoted me at around 3000$ for somthing i dont remember probably boring out the block though now that u mention it..... i dont know much im still learning so any input is greatly appreciated...

 

i vote factory supercharger. the more complixities of the turbo route i learn the less appealing it becomes

 

yea i hear that..especially considering i am not a full fledged gear head and its my daily driver....

 

dunt work on internals if your not goin for RAW POWER lik the JOTECH guys.


they rebuilt the engine so it would rev higher. higher as in 8.5 RPM.

daily drivers dont need internal work, jus bolt ons.

my highly recommended 2 cents is taht you leave ur internals alone and work only on bolt ons for now.

 

yea definately..bolt ons 1st.. i was just curious so i did a lil window shopping...

 

wow i didnt know people who dont know what their talking about have so many opinions on the matter. but anyways...getting your head ported will provide your intake charge (air and fuel) less restriction on its way to the combustion chamber. it may give you moderate gains on an otherwise stock motor but would be very beneficial mated with other mods like some kind of forced induction or cams with a longer duration (valve stays open longer). any port work needs to be done on a flow bench or your just wasting a perfectly good head and throwing your money away. i hope that helps answer some of your questions.

 

lmao I dont knw who did headwork that only gave you a 1-5hp gain, but thats just pathetic. My friends SI which had a stg3 P&P gained 25hp to the wheels. Its about 800$, but hey its worth it to me.

 

The Jotech car doesnt rev to 8.5K. How do I know this? I talk to Kenny Tran on average twice a week. The Jotech car got a port and polish job, and a new set or prototype Rev valves to handle the added heat that running 28psi will produce. Other then that, the head is stock. Stock cams ect. The car has reved out to about 7500.

Just so everyone knows, we have a car in the shop right now with 600 miles on it and I took the head off to have a PandP job done. It sucks. The front timing cover runs the length of the engine and has to come off. Therefore all the pullies, the oil pan(unless you remove the studs) and pretty much everything including the pass. motor mount has to come off. Its not an easy job and I think anyone that quotes a price without having done one first will hate themselves in the end.

We are installing the head back on the car today and should see some dyno results by the end of the week. The head flowed approximatly 35 percent better after the work then stock. That should net some nice WHP gains.

Charles

 

you also have to take in mind that the b16 heads from hondas flow the BEST.. hondas have always had good flowing heads on their motors coming from toyota or nissan as i did, a port and polish head would not do as much as it did to your friends si, we will see how the head for the tc will react to a port polish when turbocustomz finishes his tc