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Help!! Stripped Head Bolts 2.4L 2AZ-FE

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Old Jan 10, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Default Help!! Stripped Head Bolts 2.4L 2AZ-FE

I need some advice. I have a 06 Scion with the 2.4L 2AZFE engine. This car has 64k miles on it. Just out of warranty. It developed an oil leak on the front driver side of the engine. Upon close exam it proved to be coming from between the head and block. Upon disassembly I discover the head bolt at that location is stripped. I now suspect other head bolts will be a problem also. I was disturbed to find that many other 2AZFE engines are having the same problem at the same general mileage range with stripped head bolts. Most of the time it is coolant leak but due to stripped head bolts that have let go and no longer can hold the torque value. I do not have the money for a $6000-$8000 dollar repair as being quoted by Toyota.
I have considered insert thread repairs but have no idea if this will work on this engine. I am looking for advice from others that have had this problem and what you did to correct the problem. I can do the work for the most part but TMEsert kit is expensive and I need to know if it will work and hold before spending the money.
Any help anyone can give will be greatly appreciated.
Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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Hey, first off were are you from!

This is a common problem with the 2az. I've seen this when it comes over heats! Dealerships see this alot as well!

Most of the time The dealer will replace the block under warranty but since your out of warranty its a tuff call!

You could call scion corp and complain that it happened just out of warranty and see what happneds! Or removing the block and bringing it to a machine shop and possibibly using a bigger stud, or a heli coil!
Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:50 PM
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to help prevent this getting some ARP head studs would help this from happening right?
Old Jan 10, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by highvoltage1
to help prevent this getting some ARP head studs would help this from happening right?

Nope its accually the block that stripping out. It usually happends on the back side from what ive seen!
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 12:42 AM
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Hi Elevation,
We have tried Scion and toyo to no avail. the car is out of warranty by 5000 miles but it might as well be 100000. Total mileage on this car is 65k. It has never been overheated, had all maintenance, and driven like a baby. It is my sons wifes car that she bought new and paid cash for by saving for a long time. Now we are all broke because of the way things are and will have to fix this ourselves and do it cheaply but i do want to do it right. I have heard heli coils are not very good for this application but possibly TIME certs are. Dont know for sure and looking for advice. I hope to find someone that has done this repair with inserts and can ask what they did. By the way in this case it is the front right head bolt that let go and oil pours everywhere when you run the engine.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 12:49 AM
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Were are you located? I have extra stock blocks. We can work something out man!
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:00 AM
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yea deff know where you guys are located.....youve got elevation(mike) in the florida area as well as many others. theres me and coryjames located in denver colorado. and many others. if you let us know where your located we can all either help if your close or get you pointed in the right direction.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:02 AM
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Word, I hate to see fellow tc guys down! Lets us know and well see what we can do. We've all been through some ____ty situations with our cars! And most of us do what we can to help each other out!
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:08 AM
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Sorry guys i forgot to give me location. I am sitting here trying to research options, answer emails, and play with my grandchildren all at the same time. I am located in Lawrenceville, GA which is about 20 miles ne of Atlanta. I am hoping to find a way to fix this problem without having to go more than head removal. This is why i was asking about thread inserts. I know a new block would be best but right now that is not possible. Even if I got hold of a block at no cost there is still a considerable expense in all the rest of the parts we would need. Or at least i am thinking so. Perhaps with a new block all we would need would be a gasket set and then just move everything over.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:11 AM
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I know there was a guy on here who also had a problem with a motor he bought from a shop. And he had used a heli coil i beilve and it worked. Im going to do some research right now. Ill post in a few min!
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:15 AM
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http://www.google.com/products?q=tim...ed=0CB8QrQQwAg

Looks like that going to be cheapest fix! And looks like its a good one from what ive read!
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:22 AM
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Hi Elevation,
Yea i looked at that also. On ebay there is a site that lots of the TIME sert kits listed but none are the one needed. I emailed the guy and he told me the following which is copied from his email:

Truthfully you will need Time-Sert kit # 2200 which is intended for use on that engine. The kit sells for 463.99 delivered. I do not have it listed on eBay at this time, but I have it on my website at this link. I wish there was a cheaper alternative, but this is the only kit that will positively do the job.

http://www.toolsqwik.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=158898&c=192598&i=240255153


THANKS!
John
www.toolsqwik.com

I still need to find a cheaper method if possible. I looked into the NS300L kit which is made by huhnsolutions and is a little cheaper at $350 but still a little high. I know i am being cheap but this is out of necessity.

Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:26 AM
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Wow, I didint think it would be that much! Tommorow i can make some calls and see what i can do for you!
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:32 AM
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yea time serts are hella expensive unfortunetly. if i still lived in alabama id be more then willing to make a trip up there on a weekend, but i am now in denver. mike should hook ya up with all the info needed.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 02:34 AM
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I appreciate that. It may be that he told me that kit because it has the long bit and long tap included along with the proper jig plate for alignment. It is a complete kit. The cheaper kits like you found are generally shorter bits and taps and do not include the alignment jig plate. I may could use one of the cheaper kits but again i just dont know. I would like to get this right the first go round. Other than this problem the car has been great for her. Good mileage and fun to drive.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 03:37 AM
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another option is a set screw if on a place you can put on drill tinny holes through the block into the head to set the stud so you can put it to spec i had to do this on my vw one time when i broke 4 head studs due to detonation
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 03:46 AM
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Cory,
This engine has female threads in the block. No studs.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 04:36 AM
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he knows....what he means is to place the head stud back in and drill tiny holes perpendicular the the head stud, tap them , then put in set screws.
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by gingles
he knows....what he means is to place the head stud back in and drill tiny holes perpendicular the the head stud, tap them , then put in set screws.


yep just what he said this is a common fix
Old Jan 11, 2010 | 06:30 AM
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This would require the use of ARP headstuds or the like though, correct? The process youre describing I couldnt see being done with stock head bolts. However with some good head studs that actually wouldnt be a bad idear



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