Scionlife.com - AEM F/IC Setup

iv seen a couple of folks that have been having problems with the aem fic and turned out to be they didn't have it set up. Ill mostly just cut and past from the aem forums.

if you have any questions about loading up the software or where to find z104.hex you will be able to find it on aem forums. If still lost pm me and ill send you a link. There is a ton of info on the aem forums so its easy to get lost looking for one specific thing.

2005-up Scion Tc:

FIC Part number: 30-1910
FIC Slave Firmware: z104.hex
Cam Sensor: Magnetic (2-wire)
Crank Sensor: Magnetic (2-wire)
Engine Load: MAF Sensor
ECU Location: Cabin, passenger side behind glove box

FIC O2 Table notes:
Boosted Scion Tc owners who want to en-richen the fueling at partial throttle settings when the factory ECU is in feedback mode can do so with the F/IC. The Factory ECU tries to run the engine at stoich (~14.7:1 Air/Fuel) when it is not at full throttle. However, forced induction Tc's can make boost while still at partial throttle and the ECU is still in feedback mode. 14.7 is TOO LEAN to be running when under any appreciable boost and can cause stumbles.

The Scion Tc has a uncommon O2 sensor style but the F/IC can still modify your target AFR's. It is assumed that you have the F/IC hooked up per the recommended connection diagram from AEM. It is also assumed that you have an independent AFR device to confirm the proper operation. It doesn't have to stay on the car but it is valuable during setup to confirm proper operation.

Step 1:
Open the Setup dialog box
In the O2 sensor section (top right)
Load Input = MAP (Sets the Y axis of the O2 map to the internal MAP sensor)
Mode = Voltage (says the table will contain raw voltages)
Period = Not applicable for Voltage mode
Bank1 Hi voltage = 4.95
Bank1 Lo voltage = 0.0

Now open the O2 Map by either clicking on the icon with the big "O" in it or select "O2 Map" under the maps menu.

The O2 Map is a 21 RPM (X Axis) by 17 Boost (Y Axis) table. In each cell is the voltage you want for each operating point (The F/IC interpolates between the 4 nearest breakpoints for smooth transitions).

Set up the load axis by clicking on each breakpoint and setting it to whatever you want. You can also drag a bunch of them and it will interpolate between the end points. Do the same with the RPM. These two sets of breakpoints are unique to this table so changing them wont change them in other tables.

Enter the desired closed loop AFR target into the cells of the table using the following values.

AFR Value
17.4 4.0
17.0 3.9
16.6 3.8
16.2 3.7
15.8 3.6
15.5 3.5
15.2 3.4
14.9 3.3
14.7 3.2
14.4 3.1
14.2 3.0
14.0 2.9
13.8 2.8
13.6 2.7
13.5 2.6
13.3 2.5
13.2 2.4
13.1 2.3
13.0 2.2
12.9 2.1
12.8 2.0
12.7 1.9
12.6 1.8
12.5 1.7
12.4 1.5
12.3 1.4
12.2 1.3
12.1 1.2
12.0 1.1
11.9 1.0

So if you want 13:1 AFR in a particular point, put 2.2 in that point in the table. Some minor tweaking may be required but these values will get you VERY close. As long as the factory ECU is in feedback then these values will be used.

IMPORTANT:
If you just change the target AFR, the factory ECU will adjust the trims to achieve the desired AFR. BUT, if you make huge changes then you will get huge trim corrections and the chance of a check engine code for excessive trims. Don't forget to adjust the fuel maps to add the approximate amount you are requesting here. That way the trims will stay near zero!

FIC MAF table notes:
I went out with out with our N/A 2005 Tc and got the data to set up a RPM dependent MAF clamp. I logged the MAF sensor voltage over multiple WOT runs. We are at sea level so I took all the data, plotted it and added a 5% safety margin then clamped it in the table.

Set up the MAF spoofing function breakpoints and table just as shown here. Also make sure you change the MAF setup in the SETUP dialog box.

Using this setup will clamp your MAF signal at the typical N/A signal level based on the engine RPM. That way whenever you are in boost the factory ECU WILL NOT be providing any fuel. All the fuel must be added by the FIC which makes it tons easier to set up your fuel maps.

now with all that being said id like to remind folks that if your going to do your own tuning you do it at your own risk.

set up for dummies

ok so you just got your fic today ........sweet ......now hers the first step

1. go ahead and load up the fic software that came in the box. The disk should start itself (auto-run) follow the prompts given.
2. double click on the aem fic icon that is now on your desktop
3. now lets see what software version you have. Look up to the tool bar and click ABOUT.
4. the latest software version thats out is version 3.04 so if the version that your running is not 3.04 it may be time to upgrade. You can download the software for free at this link http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,22476.0.html
(Warning if you were running anything older than version 3.0 you will need to flash your main chip with x300.hex which is inside the 3.04 software)
5. so now you've gone and downloaded the software.....well time to run it....double click on the file folder labeled FICRelease080609(may be in zip file so it'll need to be unzipped, some computers will unzip automatically when double clicked)
6. just like installing the disk all you need to do is follow the prompts.
7. great now we have the latest software loaded, now lets plug in the fic. Make sure you are connected to the internet while you do this cause the computer will need to search for the plug in's other wise your computer will not be able to connect to the fic and you'll get this msg: Unable to connect to fic, make sure it is plugged in and try again.
8. now we are going to see what your slave chip is running, in the tool bar click on file, scroll down to Get Slave Version and click on it.
9. follow the prompts very carefully (you will also need a paper clip to stick in the little hole that is located next to the usb port on the fic) (this is the button they refer to)
10. most likely you have the slave version 1.07 (something similar) so we need to re-flash it to z104.hex (works best with the scion Tc) you can find this file at http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,22476.0.html
11. download z104.hex (yet again it will be a zipped file so yeah gonna need to unzip it) now remember where you downloaded it to cause your gonna have to find it in a sec
12. look up at the tool bar and click on file, scroll down to Flash Fic and click it.TIP-keep all your fic files and maps in one folder it will help when searching for them.
13. follow the prompts given carefully
14. ok lets see we have the latest software loaded, flashed the slave chip.......well lets find a base map....alot of guys on here will hook you up with a base map so just ask nicely.

Wiring and Configuring the FIC to Read Wide Band o2 Sensor

well here is the wire you need to connect to on the fic
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ugehookup3.jpg

a front view with a staple marking the location
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ugehookup6.jpg

this is pin18 of the 22pin connector

if you harness doesnt have a wire there you will need to source a pin and wire
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ugehookup7.jpg

you can sometimes get lucky getting one by pulling em out of the universal (flying lead) harness
if not you will need to order up the pins and crimp your own, you can get the pins from allied electric
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1721.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1722.jpg

www.alliedelec.com

your looking for a molex micro-fit 3.0 female pin.

once you have done that and connected the wideband you will need to calibrate the fic with the wideband. you do this by bringing up the gauges while connected to the fic via laptop, right click on the wideband gauge and a box with values will come up. adjust the voltages on the left side of the box till your wideband matches what the fic gauge says.

Using FIC to Run a Shift Light

First off if my spelling and lack of explaining things bothers you pleas cut me some slack, its 5am and i just got home from doing installs all day and night long. ill try to keep it short and sweet so if there are any questions don't hesitate to ask and ill be happy to answer you guys as soon as i wake up....lmao

Parts needed

bright high output led lights (get em from oznium.com or local pep-boys)
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1339.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1346.jpg

16 gauge wire (speaker wire will do just fine)

butt splices or solder (to each his own)

aem fic universal harness (for those that have a pnp harness, if your hardwired you will save a step later on)

Tools

crimper or solder iron

strippers (no I'm not talking about your sister...lmao)

laptop or desktop (doesn't really matter)

Game plan

First find a spot thats in your line of sight and visible to place a shift light.
(some ideas)
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1341.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1342.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1344.jpg

Run the wire between your fic and shift light

Locate pin 16 on the 24 pin connector
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1335.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1336.jpg

If hardwired your going to use the white wire labeled "vtec out" (finally a real use for vtac...lmao) to power the shift light.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1338.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1337.jpg

If pnp harness is used you'll need to get the universal harness and pull a pin out of the connector to push into the open spot (pin 16 of 24 pin connector)

Find a ground for the ground wire

After making connections double check with a volt meter to make sure they are solid.

Place LED's in desired location and wire it up

Hook up your fic to computer and open the cal (maps) that your using and click on the connect icon

Click on setup, scroll down to system (click it....duh...lol)
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1351.jpg

A box will pop up, look at the bottom right hand corner of that box labeled "Switched 12Vdc"...this is were all the magic happens
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1352.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1353.jpg

Set load and tps to 0 if it isn't already
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...2/IMG_1354.jpg

Set the ON to desired RPM

Set the Off to 200-300 RPM's less than the on

(warning the fic is kinda laggy so you want to set the on about 500 less than what is desired, that should make up for the lag. you'll see in the vid..lol)

The Results

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_MVI_1358.jpg

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_MVI_1359.jpg

Big THANKS to Paul at Dezod and Garrett (TheFantasticG) for allowing me to do this mod to his car (like he really minded...lol)

sorry guys iv been lagging behind on adding ish...please forgive me

_____________________________________________________________________

AEM Fic 2-Step DIY
This is for off-road use only and is done at your own risk!!!

Supplies

AEM Fic
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Fic Harness
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Shrink tube
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Crimp Connectors
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14 Gauge Wire and 24 Gauge Wire
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Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 Socket Crimp Terminal (This is if you dont have a spare universal harness to pull pins from and using the boomslang pnp harness. If your hardwired using the universal harness your one lucky guy cause youll save yourself some time)
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12 Volt 30 Amp Relay (Five pin relay with one "normally closed" contact)
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Small Limit Switch (aka Mini snap action switch)
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Zip Ties
12 Volt 15 Amp Toggle Switch
Velcro Tape or Double Sided Tape (optional)
Self Taping Sheet Metal Screw (optional)
Red Bull (almost manditory..lol)
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Most of this stuff can be found at Fry's electronics except for fic, pnp harness, molex pins. Fic and harness can be found at www.dezod.com and molex pins can be found at www.alliedelec.com .

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tools

Crimpers
Stripers
Multi-meter (for checking connections and trouble shooting)
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Flat head screw driver
Tiny drill (skill xo, ryobi 4volt driver, etc) (optional)
Philips head screw driver (optional)
Solder
Soldering Iron
Knife
Lighter or heat gun

----------------------------------------------------------------

Pre-wiring

We will start with the relay, take note of the wiring diagram thats on it. Almost all relays have a wiring diagram that will tell you what pins do what.
Break out the relay and find the two pins for the coil. You will need to either pull out a pin from the Fic universal harness or you'll need to grab the 24 gauge wire. Take one end of that wire and crimp on a female spade connector. Heat shrink the wire and connector so nothing can make contact with it from the sides. Plug this wire into one of the pins for the coil on the relay. On my relay this pin is labeled 85.
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Take the other end of that wire and crimp on a molex micro-fit 3.0 terminal. If using a wire and terminal pulled from the fic universal harness then no need for crimping a molex terminal on.
Now we need to find pin 16 on the 24 pin connector, on my harness pin 16 is on the top row right next to the green wire.
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If still unsure of which pin look through your fic wiring instructions thats on your install CD, it will have a complete pin-out for both connectors that plug into the fic.
Now take that wire we were just dealing with and push it into pin 16 of the 24 pin connector.
It should look like this
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Make sure you have pushed it in as far as the others, if it doesnt stay firm in the connector or isnt pushed in far enough you will not have proper contact.
Now move to the one pin for the coil of the relay thats left. Its labeled 86 on my relay. This is were we are going to bring a ground to that will come from the limit switch that will be mounted under the clutch pedal so make sure you cut yourself enough wire to do so. It will roughly take about 10ft of wire to be on the safe side.
Unroll some 14 gauge wire for this and crimp on a female spade connector. Heat shrink it to be safe after its been crimped, plug it into the relay.
Next we will need two long runs of wire roughly 15ft long each. Thes will go from relay to engine bay.
Crimp on one female connector per wire and heat shrink them.
One will be pluged into the common terminal of the relay, on my relay its labeled 30. The other wire needs to be pluged into the relay pin thats a "normally closed" contact. This pin is labeled 87a on my relay.
So far everything should start looking like this
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We are almost done with the relay, just need to tape it up to the Fic pnp harness (or mount it someplace in the glove box later)
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Now we need to splice into the wire thats connected to pin 30 on my relay with another 14 gauge wire thats roughly 5ft long depending on where you tap into. this is one is for the bypass switch (12 volt toggle switch) so you can activate or deactivate the 2 step. Then you will need to take another 5ft long piece of wire and tap into the wire coming from pin 87a on my relay. This too is for the bypass switch. I suggest to make your connections by peeling back a little insulation on the two wires coming from the relay and soldering each bypass wire but a tap (suitcase) connector could be used.
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Your just about done with the pre-wire just need to tape up or heat shrink the wires to keep them neat and together.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Wiring

Now that the harness is ready its time to run the wires through the glove box. You can use a coat hanger to fish the wire through to the driverside floor board if it helps. I had the test wires already ther so i used them to pull in the new wires.
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Now we are going to drop off the two wires for the bypass switch and the ground at the driver-side floor board, then take the two wires connected to pin 30 & 87a and run them through the fire wall. You can run them through the large grommet located above the pedals. Again I used my test wires to help pull them through the fire wall.
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You will need to pull them all the way to the fuse box in the drivers side of the engine bay.
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Pop the cover off of the fuse box.
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Thes two connectors will need to be disconnected for the moment.
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Disconnect battery.
There are two tabs that hold in the small portion of the fuse box that will need to be pulled back to release it. This is where the flat head screw driver comes into play. Hold the tab back with the flat head and gently pull up on the small section. Keep holding it up while you swap over to the other tab and do the same thing.
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Pull out the small section of the fuse box and place it out of the way.
next unplug the brown cube relay.

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There are three tabs on the large portion of the fuse box, hold those back to be able to pull the large portion up.

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Pull up that portion and lean it back so you can see the wires under the micro fuses.
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There is a black wire we need to get to that is under the blue 15 amp fuse.
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Find that wire and gently pull a little slack towards you, then cut the wire in half but leave enough to work with. You will be dealing with both halves of this wire.
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Now have a sip of coffee while your soldering iron heats up.
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Take one of the wires you pulled into the engine bay (doesnt matter which one) and solder it to one of the wires you just cut.
It was cold so was kinda hard to heat the solder up with this cheap iron i have.
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The next step is optional but is good to have done if you ever get rid of the fic or just dont want the 2 step anymore.
Crimp on a female spade connector to the two newly soldered wires and heat shrink over the hole deal.
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Solder the two remaining wires together and crimp on a male connector. Heat shrink the connection and terminal.
Now stuff the wires down in the fuse box and close everything up. Don't forget to put those two connectors we unplugged back in their homes.
Now we can move on over to the driver side floorboard.
Pull open the kick panel and pop out a switch blank from the dash.
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Run your bypass wires up and out of the dash and zip tie them as you go. Also would be a good time to zip tie the other wires out of the way that we ran earlier.
Connect the wires to the toggle switch (spst) and if needed use shrink tube to cover the connections.
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Now here comes the hard part of the whole thing, mounting the limit switch (micro switch). You can either use velcro tape (double sided tape even) and zipties togather to accomplish this or a 1"-1 1/4" thin self taping sheet metal screw. If using the screw then this is of course were the mini drill comes into play.
I used a the screw.
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It needs to be mounted so when the pedal goes down it trips the switch.
Now you need a good ground, I used a short piece of wire and crimped a loop on one end and a female spade connector on the other, then I took the loop end to the closest stud. After i pluged in the spade end to the common pin on the limit switch (micro switch).
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Remember that ground we wired up to the relay that we dropped off in the floorboard, yep we need to route it to the "normally open" pin on the limit switch. Zip tie it as you go.

Feel free to check all your connections with a multi-meter. Also there are other ways of doing this so use your imagination.

----------------------------------------------------------------

The Magic
(set up)

Here we are in the home stretch!!!
Plug in the fic harness, plug in fic, plug in usb to fic, plug in usb to laptop.
Open up the fic program
Click file (on the top tool bar), click on open, click on your current map and click open.
Click on ecu (tool bar at the top) and click connect.
Click on set-up, scroll down to system and click it.
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This screen will pop up
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Look at the lower right hand corner of the system screen, you will see a box labeled "Switched 12Vdc".
Set all the parameters in that box to zero.
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Set the rpm on to desired number and the rpm off to desired number.
On the latest vid i set mine to 4000rpm on and 4000rpm off

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The Reward

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_MVI_1801.jpg

just some after thoughts.
If I were to replace my exhaust (which it will get replaced soon) and get rid of the cats (which they will go by by after turbo install) you would prolly have the loud poping and fire balls that are more common to 2step launch control units.

also if anyone is having trouble finding the parts i listed or would like to have their harness prewired pm me
__________________

FIC BASE TUNE
use at own risk...base maps are no substitute for a pro tune, so dont cheap out and try to only run on a base map.

here are some screen shots of a basic tune you can build off of to suit your needs.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...madorktune.png

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...ktunesetup.png

BASE MAPS FOR DOWNLOAD
again these are just base maps, use at own risk

http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/AEM_FI_base_files/