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Building an Exhaust Manifold.... Help Needed

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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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Default Building an Exhaust Manifold.... Help Needed

Hello Everyone, so after being on these forums for a while, and spending countless hours reading and learning. I have decided to build a manifold. I figured it would be a good learning experience and a great way to build knowledge as well as appreciation to companies like P-tuning, Dezod, Turbo Toyota's, etc... for all the hard work and knowledge that they have put in to their products and this community.

I started to research some facts around the internet and it seems for just an average DIY build 304SS seems to be the most common route, however I have read about using Inconel? What it be overkill? What are your opinions about it?

At the current moment, I am trying to compile a list of parts to purchase, Do any of you know where to purchase the SS for the least amount? Also What would be the best size for heat dissipation, strength, and weight?

Also I found a Cast Stainless Merge Collector that I would think would simplify my build however I would have trouble putting a waste gate on it without altering the piece. Any thoughts on where to put the waste gate without having to re weld the piece, or will it be better to cut and re weld the piece?

Here is a picture of the piece that I am talking about...

http://www.z10eng.com/catalog/produc...products_id=47

Now on another note... I believe that Turbo Toyota's is the only company that is selling the mild flange for our engine. However P-tuning has the best looking one of all.

http://www.whyindustries.com/store/i...p?cPath=23_116


So to sum everything up.... sorry for the useless banter....

Where would be a good place to pick up 304SS for the best price?

Is there another place to efficiently mount the waste gate without having to cut into this cast merge collector?


When making a manifold like P-tunings or Ricks (Raam audio) how did you gentleman modify or clear the engine mount?

And last but not least.....

How would one go about getting an equal length manifold that is cast? Is it even possible?

So far with the cast merge collector and mild head flange the cost is at $200, now I have to find the rest of the pieces, appropriate welding wire, and a great welder (luckily I have one in the family). Once I find the rest of the pieces I will post more accurate numbers.

Any tips or precautions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a great day.
Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:35 PM
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whats ur welding experience and what kinda welder you planning on using for this project ?
Old Mar 11, 2009 | 11:55 PM
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If the answer isn't "a lot" and "TIG" you might wanna hold off on it.

Inconel is definitely overkill. Inconel is found on those Top Fuel dragsters and F1 cars and, automotively, not a whole lot else.
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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Tip: just buy one or pay someone that does know what they are doing.
inconel does doesn't come in pipe but only in tubing from my understanding. It's only used from a weight saving stand point anyways.
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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started to research some facts around the internet and it seems for just an average DIY build 304SS seems to be the most common route, however I have read about using Inconel? What it be overkill? What are your opinions about it?
2 things:

1. budget stainless costs allot less...you'll need extra for practice
2. welding experience...stainless is allot easier to weld than inconel.

Their are lots of people who think they can weld, ie make metal stick together. All the time building this type of manifold is all in the prep work. Once you ready to weld then its easy.

At the current moment, I am trying to compile a list of parts to purchase, Do any of you know where to purchase the SS for the least amount? Also What would be the best size for heat dissipation, strength, and weight?
Purchase: local pipe supplier or if you want someone in the industry..vibrant sell the elbows and the collector (better than the one you posted)

size: (diameter) 1 1/4....performs better than 1 1/2 all the way up to 700hp. Most use 1 1/2 cause thats what everyone else does, plus its more common so its easier to get.

size: (thickness) most use sch 40 (8 guage) as their is more meat to weld, if you have talent you can go to a sch 10 (you will save allot of weight too). Sch 10 requires allot more prep work than the sch 40.

If you go the sch 10 route look into 316 or 321 its stronger and has a higher tolerance for heat.


Also I found a Cast Stainless Merge Collector that I would think would simplify my build however I would have trouble putting a waste gate on it without altering the piece. Any thoughts on where to put the waste gate without having to re weld the piece, or will it be better to cut and re weld the piece?
Wether you make a collector or buy one you will still need to cut a hole for the wg elbow.

Otherwise use an internally gated turbo

If you make your own collector, you can cut the hole out before you weld the two halfs together. Makes it allot easier (takes stress out of cutting a welded collector) and you can weld the inside of the wg elbow at the same time.


Now on another note... I believe that Turbo Toyota's is the only company that is selling the mild flange for our engine. However P-tuning has the best looking one of all.
Be carefull with stainless flanges (head or turbine) they take allot more prep work, and they should be stressed relieved (head flange, heat dissapation issue)
in short mild steel is easier to work with. ( I use it cause it works and keeps the cost of the manifold down, most think they are too expensive as it is)

How would one go about getting an equal length manifold that is cast? Is it even possible?
Sort of ......its in 6 pieces and there is still a little welding involved


When making a manifold like P-tunings or Ricks (Raam audio) how did you gentleman modify or clear the engine mount
Play with turbo placement....

figure out where you want the turbo to sit....once you do mount a head flange and then weld a pc of bar stock or scrap to a turbine flange where you want the turbo sitting.

Make sure you weld it good enough to support the weight of the turbo once its mounted to your placement jig.

Once you are happy with where your turbo sits, and the dp and intercooler piping routing works, make a production jig out of your placement jig.

Make sure that you think about your collector fitment and how your runners will route when you decide on where to place your turbo.

Hope that helps a little.

Have fun and good luck.

Regards-

Todd
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 12:26 AM
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todd what is your welder of choice ?
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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nice post todd
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by scikotictc232
todd what is your welder of choice ?
I like our Lincoln 225 TIG Runner.
Old Mar 12, 2009 | 09:59 PM
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great thread....i thought about doing something similar but my welding skills are not quit there yet nor do i have the proper tools for the job. its one thing to weld mild steel dump tubes but another trying to fab an el mani. thats a big job so id start on something small just to get a feel for the material that youll be working with. start with a scrap piece of whatever material you plan to eventually use and try to make a pretty weld between two pieces. if you can manage to do that consistently then move on to bigger things. thats about the best advice i can give on my limited amount of experience. good luck
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