If you were to build your own turbo kit..
 

So were making a turbo kit for a customer, and we all debated about what turbo, and what size exh, ect.

But if you were to make a Stock motor, great performing street kit, what would it be?

What turbo? What piping ect? Its funny that we have all stepped away from fast spooling turbos, and went for bigger 57+ trim ect when most are running only 280-300whp.

We like to hear what the customer thinks, and not tell you what to think, and we love hearing peoples thought!

Once its done i will tell you a couple of our "perfect" 2az setups! Should be fun guys!

Hmmmmmm....watching too c what input is going to be said ;-)

SENT FROM MY DROID

ok. equal length, thick wall, swoop down, v-band, top mount manifold with tial 44 mm wastegate. fp hta3076 w/.82 hotside, 3" v-band dp, pwr fmic, 3" ic piping w/ blow through maf, rc 750cc injectors, synapses bov, f/ic, 4" cai.

^ this... 3" ic piping with standalone and 2.75" piping with piggyback. its been said that over 2.75 yhour maf will not read correctly so i dunno.
and i think if your planing for some autocross you might want a turbo that spools alot quick then those top end monsters.

First and foremost, people are addicted to the "equal length runner" setup but it's not entirely necessary for a street kit. In fact, a cast mani is much more durable and effective in fast spooling IMO. If the kit's target is 300 whp then a .63 hotside fits the bill nice but you could deal with a smaller cold side than a 57 trim easy. 10 PSI should get the 300 whp. If it doesn't, then something is wrong. Having different pricing for different tuning platforms wouldn't hurt either because I will never go back to AEM for the F/IC. Way too twitchy IMO but every bolt on kit comes with it and it would be nice to not have to piece together the injectors and EM separately. Including an S-Pipe is definitely a good place to start because it's the suckiest part of our exhaust. I've taken one apart and saw the double wall construction, it's about 1-3/4" max inside diameter just after the downpipe... not good. The piping routing should be as short and simple as possible like P-Tuning's. Turbo to pass side to intercooler to driver side and up. Blow through is a must and it's really easy to achieve. An intercooler that fits WITH the crashbar would be nice as well. I don't like a flimsy front bumper or missing a major structural crash support... once again, just my opinion. It's entirely simple and possible for the caliber of shop you run and the competence of employees you have. Garrett turbo, Tial BOV and WG, and I'd personally recommend G-EMU but if you do a "tuner kit" then I guess it's not necessary.

Long story short, quality parts, good R&D, cast log mani and ball bearing option = Win in my book. Best of luck guys!

Wow guys some great posts here!

But keep in mind. 300whp IS the goal here!

pretty much what brett has on his list..

EL manifold- titanium :shock: haha in my dream.. SS is all i can afford
gt3076r 0.83 hotside, tial housing vband- options for upgrade
3" vband exhaust
tial 44 wg
2.5-2.75" IC piping
pwr intercooler
tial/synapse bov
Tap for AIT sensor (maf delete)
short 4" intake pipe if i am to use one

Do you plan on leaving room for customer improvements on that number? If so, a bigger WG and BOV piping etc should be considered. Basically, is the 300 a minimum or a target?

oh for just a 300 goal, the gt28r, 2.25 IC pipe, 2.5" exhaust, 44mm wg, synapse bov, 3" intake

u would think that 300whp would be the min they would want to run on this customers car

Anything over 300, the customer really must know a bit about the setup themselves otherwise, it could lead to bigger problems.

There are some people out there with more dollars than sense but protecting their investment is half of the job. It's tough if you are a business trying to please the smart, stupid, rich, and budget limited. Most boosted TC owners would be pretty content with 280-300 whp. That puts them on par with most factory boosted performance imports. On about 270 whp, I smoked a brand new Speed3 from a dig and roll. I'm more than that now (290-300) and much smoother tune but the point is still valid. He spent over 26k and I beat him. The surprise factor is fun :)

If I had the extra dough layin' around for something like this, a quality minded kit that most can reasonably afford... and knowing that a lot of thought went into the creation of the kit from several different manufacturers for what works best together.... boom! that's an instant recipe for success.
I like the comment rangerryda made in the last sentence of your post...
"The suprise factor is fun"... kinda like a version of a "sleeper" for Imports :)
The only loss that will leave them scratching their heads is the one where they get their butts handed to them b/c they didn't see it coming. Some how that just seems more satisfying to me.

^ i agree, over 300 as you approach the 350 mark, you should be more knowledgeable and cautious.. stuff starts to fail sooner, and you start to spend more on the setup/upgrades

I say use a bigger turbo because we do not need to spin our front tires 1k to 1.5k RPM sooner :wink:

^ I think it's fun :) Additionally, it teaches better throttle manipulation which is more important in FWD cars than an LSD or sticky tires when it comes to launching. I avoid racing from a dig all together. I don't even go to the track. I don't care what it'll run in the 1/4 because the car isn't made for that. Otherwise it'd have a ford 9" in the rear and twice as many cylinders lol. It's fun for highway and toying around in the corners. That's where a nice fast spooling smaller turbo is great because your tires won't blow off and send you in a straight line eeek!

use the gt28r and for tire spinning run a boost controller. i used to spin horribly off the line with my 6076e .63ex turbo until i bought my boost controller.

EL is not as important in my opinion. For a customer who has no knowledge of turbocharger mechanics or anything of the sort something extremely durable, would be perfect. cast iron, etc.
emanage ultimate
750cc injectors
fuel pump
blow thru
could care less about bov(there most likely going to want something to sound cool)

ima go out a different route and say a 20g turbo. I was in masons car when it was on 16g? 13 psi and 330whp... my car was built at the time 420whp and im not going to lie i enjoyed the hell out of fast spool on his car....soo much fun driving in the city, insane acceleration. 20g is quick spool and will hit 300 no problem at all. if need a t3/t4 flanged then i guess a comp turbo triple ball bearing could do :) or just a 54 trim/gt28. just go with a log manifold, keep it less expensive and effective at the same time.

Nope his goal is 300whp. He is on stock motor and does not want to pass that..

Thanks for input though..

And everyone else! Wow i cant beilve so many people responded! Such a great thread guys! :clap:

True equal legnth manifold, Tial 44mm v band WG, FP HTA 3076 with Tial V band housing. Full 3 inch exhaust. Thick intercooler, 3" hot side piping, 2.5"cold side, no couplers, all wiggins clamps. Blow through Maf. Filter on the turbo, Tial Alpha Q full recirculated BOV, Dezod big Red 850cc injectors, Walboro fuel pump. Comes with AEM F/IC and optional wotbox/2step.

If staying stock engine, The Disco potato turbo, I just said 30r because most want room for improvement. Obviously you can loose the injector size too with a smaller turbo.

Then a 16G or a 20G turbo @ 300whp is going to be a great street car. The quick spool has the fun factor. And it would be good for 12sec 1/4 mile runs at that hp.