need help/advice on removing a supercharger bolt!
#1
need help/advice on removing a supercharger bolt!
hey everyone i starting trying to rebuild my supercharger myself. i was going to do it at my job (mercedes) but the shop foreman didnt want the liability. so im stuck doing it at my house with sub par tools.
There is a 6MM allen bolt with a half moon head on it that holds the pulley side bracket in. i didnt have a 6MM ratcheting socket so i attempted to use a allen key instead. it ended up rounding off the bolt and im kind of lost on how to get it out. it looks like a terrible place to try to get a drill bit in.
There is a 6MM allen bolt with a half moon head on it that holds the pulley side bracket in. i didnt have a 6MM ratcheting socket so i attempted to use a allen key instead. it ended up rounding off the bolt and im kind of lost on how to get it out. it looks like a terrible place to try to get a drill bit in.
#7
he means the bolt head is rounded like a 1/2 moon, there are two best ways to remove, might sound stupid, but the best way . first you could purchase a reverse extractor from sears, or snap on,, they sell different sizes. and attempt to remove it might be tough since the head is rounded like a half noon, other way, get a chisel longer the better. and make a straight mark beeper the better, and i do mean straight do not attempt to mark at an angle since you might chip the bolt and it makes it harder to remove, once you mark it then apply wd40, on the bolt try not to apply near the mark, let it sit for a few min then attempt to softly hit the mark at a 35 or 45 degree angle, it should loosen up..
#8
he means the bolt head is rounded like a 1/2 moon, there are two best ways to remove, might sound stupid, but the best way . first you could purchase a reverse extractor from sears, or snap on,, they sell different sizes. and attempt to remove it might be tough since the head is rounded like a half noon, other way, get a chisel longer the better. and make a straight mark beeper the better, and i do mean straight do not attempt to mark at an angle since you might chip the bolt and it makes it harder to remove, once you mark it then apply wd40, on the bolt try not to apply near the mark, let it sit for a few min then attempt to softly hit the mark at a 35 or 45 degree angle, it should loosen up..
#10
#13
I used a cut-off wheel and ground the head down, removed the assembly, and was able to remove bolt stud with my fingers. Im glad you are satisfied with the rebuild! Sounds quiet.
#14
very satisfied with the rebuild!!! i was a hesitant spending 1600 for the rebuild when i was told there was only a 60-70% success rate but im very relieved now. when i picked it up it was idling horrible and shut off a few times but i guess it was the ecu readjusting itself because after the hour drive home, it was running better than ever. no more backfiring, no inconsistent idle, no loud bearing noises, no more damn headache haha! i really appreciate yall putting the grease fitting in as well!
#15
very satisfied with the rebuild!!! i was a hesitant spending 1600 for the rebuild when i was told there was only a 60-70% success rate but im very relieved now. when i picked it up it was idling horrible and shut off a few times but i guess it was the ecu readjusting itself because after the hour drive home, it was running better than ever. no more backfiring, no inconsistent idle, no loud bearing noises, no more damn headache haha! i really appreciate yall putting the grease fitting in as well!
#16
The low idle was most likely caused by built up gunk around the throttle body plate, battery was disconnected during rebuild and default throttle postion was too low. Remove the throttle body and clean it with carb cleaner and toothbrush. Hold plate in open postion with fingers and scrub it. Your airbox isnt sealing, that could be part of the excessive gunk
I have some more work that needs to be done so you will probably see my car in the shop soonish!
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