Official Turbo FAQ with Electrical Guide
I'll work on doing a big gauge and electronic right up soon.
It'll cover mechanical and elec gauages, A/F gauge differences, different fuel computers, ignition options, and who knows what else.
Stay tuned.
It'll cover mechanical and elec gauages, A/F gauge differences, different fuel computers, ignition options, and who knows what else.
Stay tuned.
Wow- this was very helpful- staying tuned. I'm curious, with the stand alone system you're putting out, will one be able to pass an their inspections test? Cause wont the computer be looking for the original ECU's readyness codes? Sorry if I'm completely missing something. Still new to the FI scene, but very interested.
I think I'm doing the Electronics write-up either tonight or tomorrow.
Our EMS will pass inspections because it modifies the stock ECU parameters, instead of removing them. Theoretically any aftermarket EMS will not pass inspection, but that doesn't mean it can't pass the sniffer. All original ECU codes will work. We simply prevent the ECU from "knowing" everything the motor is actually doing with our new EMS.
Our EMS will pass inspections because it modifies the stock ECU parameters, instead of removing them. Theoretically any aftermarket EMS will not pass inspection, but that doesn't mean it can't pass the sniffer. All original ECU codes will work. We simply prevent the ECU from "knowing" everything the motor is actually doing with our new EMS.
We aren't releasing a price yet because we still plan on testing the new EMS with an additional component. If we decide it needs the component, we'll have to charge a little more. If we think we can make a safe and reliable tune without it, then you will save money. I can tell you 100% though that it will be below $1,000 for everything you need.
most of the information that you gave these people did NOTHING but hurt them and potentialy could make them blow up their motor. Not trying to be a dic, but maybe you should learn how to calibrate an engine before you tell people falicies and common knowen "myths" about tuning.
Originally Posted by IckyScion
most of the information that you gave these people did NOTHING but hurt them and potentialy could make them blow up their motor. Not trying to be a dic, but maybe you should learn how to calibrate an engine before you tell people falicies and common knowen "myths" about tuning.
Originally Posted by soros151
Originally Posted by IckyScion
most of the information that you gave these people did NOTHING but hurt them and potentialy could make them blow up their motor. Not trying to be a dic, but maybe you should learn how to calibrate an engine before you tell people falicies and common knowen "myths" about tuning.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?t=10483
P.S. just because you read this article dont assume you can accualy do it. Get someone that knows what they are doing to have them tune your motor. This is for information purposes ONLY.
TUNING:
I touched on this a little bit before. Tuning is key. It affects your performance and reliability. This part is where the magic happens so I’m going to keep this from being to generalized or specific because different systems respond differently. The first and most common thing to tune is your air to fuel ratio. This helps get the most and safest power out of your car (if done correctly). Tune too rich and you will bog, foul plugs, and lose power. Tune too lean and your car may lot last too long, as you are taking the temps up higher and risking the chance of knock/detonation. Ignition timing is the next step in tuning and can be the final bit needed to give you the extra safety you need for the longevity of the motor. Professional tuners should be doing tuning, so I’m cutting this part short. Paul and I can answer more specific questions if you must.
I touched on this a little bit before. Tuning is key. It affects your performance and reliability. This part is where the magic happens so I’m going to keep this from being to generalized or specific because different systems respond differently. The first and most common thing to tune is your air to fuel ratio. This helps get the most and safest power out of your car (if done correctly). Tune too rich and you will bog, foul plugs, and lose power. Tune too lean and your car may lot last too long, as you are taking the temps up higher and risking the chance of knock/detonation. Ignition timing is the next step in tuning and can be the final bit needed to give you the extra safety you need for the longevity of the motor. Professional tuners should be doing tuning, so I’m cutting this part short. Paul and I can answer more specific questions if you must.
Oh BTW - That thread you linked everyone to will nto work on the tC unless you have a stand-alone EMS and a load based dyno. For the other 90% of us out there, any partial throttle tune will be a waste of time and you can not keep up with how fast the ECU re-adjusts the tune to get it running the way it comes from the factory.
Oh BTW - That thread you linked everyone to will nto work on the tC unless you have a stand-alone EMS and a load based dyno. For the other 90% of us out there, any partial throttle tune will be a waste of time and you can not keep up with how fast the ECU re-adjusts the tune to get it running the way it comes from the factory.
The reason that NO ONE SHOULD EVER TUNE THEIR CAR WITH A MAP HACK (ie afc, venom 400, or any of these systems that trick the ecu)
is because they can only tune fuel. I will get into why this is such a problem but it will be for a honda motor not a tc (only because i have not had the chance to work with one) but it is still the same general thing for not only a tc but also every internal combustion motor out there. Ok first a honda motor uses 240cc injectors from the factory. You are going to boost it so you buy some 440cc injectors. Now your injectors are almost twice the size as the stock ones and that means that each time the ecu tells those injectors to open it is squirting twice the ammount of fuel into the cylinder than before. Now at just idle your 15:1 AFR is down past 8:1 AFR and it can hardly even run. So you trick the ecu and tell it that it is sucking down WAY LESS air than it really is. You get it to a decent 13:1 AFR...... What most people dont realize is they just made their ecu move into a different "cell" and take the information from there. If the ecu sees less air (even if the motor is sucking down the same ammount) it will change the injector pulses and you will get a change in AFR but you will now also get a change in timing advance. Less air in the cylinder means a slower burn and theirfor the timming needs to be advanced to get the peak cylinder pressures in the right place. So what happened is you advance the timing a few degrees while fixing the AFR. I have seen some one create knock at idle by doing this. Even though this is not enough to really even affect your motor at idle this effect goes up exponetially as revs and boost go up. At 10 psi (relitive) the most the ecu will read is 14.7 (absolute) the difference between what the timming should look like at 14.7 MAP and 24.7 MAP is almost 10* retard at the 24.7 MAP or 10 psi(relitive). So in reality, at 10 psi your motor will be ADVANCED 10* over what it should be at. That is WAY over enough to cause detonation and catastrophic motor damage. So tuning with a map hack or telling someone how to do so is just... well.... idiotic. Especially as a parts distributor.







