I am curious, say you have two different turbo kits; one makes 300 whp at 8 psi and the other makes the same whp at 14psi. Is running the 14 psi set up potentially worse/runs a higher risk of popping the engine when comparing to the 8psi set up that makes the same power?

The reason I ask is that I was thinking about upgrading parts of my greddy kit for more power, but then thought I could just turn the boost up more. My thought process is if my turbo is not maxed out and I'm still within a "safe" power range for the block, does it matter what PSI I'm running?

I know there have been alot of "what psi safe" questions, which I have read through, but I posted a thread as I thought this was a little different of a question.

 

its not necessarily psi....its horsepower....stock block is done at 350hp....so run whatever boost you want till then.

 

From what Ive learned its about WHP not PSI so they should be equally "safe" if they make the same WHP no matter what PSI it is at. One thing to consider is the OEM head studs, I believe they start to pillow out at 16PSI.

 

That's what I thought. I've heard safe expressed in CFM, but not in whp, just wanted to confirm.

John, what is that about the head studs? I probably won't be getting to 16psi, but am curious?

 

It's kinda funny, people make such a big deal about buying the "most powerful kit" as most will never realize the full potential of their kit (as most do not build their motor, from what I can gather).

It would seem to me that if your not planning to build out your motor, you should just buy the cheapest kit you can find (as your motor will most likely limit you before your kit does).

 

the higher the psi the more heat is produced. at that low of boost its not much of a difference but when compaired to 20-30psi the intake air temps will rise quite a bit, thats when you want to think about a larger intercooler, water/meth injection, timing adjustments, ect..

stock engine can withstand roughly 350hp but keep it to 300hp to keep a little safety margine.

 

That makes sense. I'm at 260 now (ptuning dyno) @ 10 psi. Thinking about going to 14 psi, figure I might get close to 300. That wouldn't creat much more heat right?

I was thinking about upgrading because i want to convert to a blow- thru set up, and am fixing a manifold leak that I had when I originally tuned, so would most likey have to retune anyway.

 

350 whp or crank hp?

 

it will produce a little more heat...not sure how much though but i wouldnt think it will be at a level that you would need to do anything drastic...guys at p-tuning know how to handle it.

 

wheel hp

 

I was think about going to another tuner in bmore, JE imports. I want to go back to ptuning but 500 a tune is killing me (this is the third time I'm getting a tune). I talked to the guy, he seems pretty knowledgable.

 

Why not tune you car at that psi , where you know you wont be raising the boost from there.. For example if you plan on building your motor for serious power wait till you build it to retune with ptuning. If not don't retune. Doesn't make any sense changing tuners if the last tuner made great power and reliable power. But you wanna change cause of the price. You get what you pay for. Now if you build your motor go back to ptuning and raise the boost a lot so you wont have to go back for a retune you sill be good from there. Trust me take it from a person that has tried 4 different tuners till he found the right one.

 

I completely agree with this. Figure out what you want to do first. Otherwise you are just going to spend more money then you need to. I would suggest having ptuning tune your car again. If you want 300 then go to them and tell them to up the boost till you make 300 and be done with it.

 

Yup cause tuning is expensive trust me take it from someone that has had 5 different people tuning my car lol. And it was not cheap.

 

i've been running 14 psi since december on a stock engine. making 308 whp based on p-tuning dyno. everything is running fine so far.

 

boost dosent mater like you would think its about temp i make massive power for my boost level thanks to angry timing and e85 my turbo makes cooler air at higher boost more efficiency ask gingles its all about tune and temp i have seen cars with alot of boost but no power due to rich tune and conserv timing.

 

The only reason I'm contemplating upping my PSI is because I'm going to be fixing a exhaust manifold leak (due to a warped manifold) that I most likely had when I tuned originally, and would most likely have to have it retuned after that is fixed. If I wasn't going to retune it for this, I would be satisfied leaving it where it is. But If I have to retune, figured I get some extra power out of it.

I hear you guys about sticking with a tuner that you know does a good job, and will most likely have them retune it. I just hate that I already spent some money trying to fix this manifold (had it decked, but it was too warped to deck flat), will have to spend more for a new manifold, then more for a retune. All to fixed an exhaust leak.

BTW, if anyone is looking to sell a greddy exhaust manifold let me know.

 

what injectors are you running richtc? because the 440cc on the greddy kit will max out at anything higher than 8psi

 

I'm running 550s. Wonder what HP they are good till?

Athelete, are you running the greddy kit as well? If you don't have a manifold with support bars on it, I would consider having some made. When I talked to greddy about a replacement, they indicated that the replacements have support bars on them to prevent the manifold from warping like mine did.

 

I've heard of ppl not being able to hit 300 with 550s and even 630s. It really depends on your tuner. I'm going to assume with ptuning that 550s are too small. Just contact them and get their opinion.