Waitttt....did you use the existing wiring from the HU to the amp? If that's the case, I may be doing this soon. I didn't want to rewire my whole car.

 

yep!

 

haha i wouldnt! just that little hole bothers me and i think it should be meshed or something... hahaha but it looks great!



just hope i can do it soon

 

Nice work!

 

Anyway you could do a write-up of the instructions to go along with the pictures. I understand what's going in most of em...but some I'm not sure.

 

Pictures speak a thousand words....this was more of a 'see it does fit' guide, the electronics will vary from application to application so if your lost on that part you should do some reading up.

 

What we need, is someway to plug that port really well. THEN, something that covers up everything EXCEPT the sub itself. So the non-functioning gain ****, the plugged port, and the lip of the enclosure will be closed up to make it look flush.


HMMMM, I just might have to do some good ol' homemade customizing to that cover [and deffinately get rid of the Bazooka emblem they got on there].

 

Yep, I've been tossing around the idea of 1/2inch mirror plexi with generous ammounts of epoxy behind it and a wood screw every so often....

 

this looks like the BEST solution for sealing up the stock enclosure...

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118370
excellent!!

 

Good find, it looks hideous but sound quality wise its probably the best thing since sliced bread.


I see a trip to ACE in my future...

 

I'd have to agree... for SQ this is probably the best solution

 

Yeah, I actually intended doing that weeks ago and just got around to it right after posting that. It fits really well. mr_lore, you should be able to still seal it with the Type-S sub. But if anyone goes to Type-R, based on my calculations of airspace, the port will need to be OPENED. For other subs, refer to this thread about airspace:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=122126
and then check the specs for your subwoofer whether it needs to be ported or not. I haven't noticed any subs that would not work based on airspace, but some highend subs, like Type-X's may not..not sure.

mr_lore, if you want to maybe work together on getting a design for a cover...PM or AIM me at ttttonyTM

 

So I don't know much about subs but I am thinking about doing this and have some questions.

1)If you upgrade the sub and amp can you still control the bass from the Headunit?
2)Is the box big enough to support the increase in power from a new sub and amp. Will it sound good or will it sound like a crappy box?

I was thinking about a 10" pioneer sub that is 600w max for $70 brand new.
I need to find a cheap amp that can support this...

 

When I upgrade mine tomorrow(hopefully) I will post a vid of the new result? I already disassembled it and forgot to do one from before...

Like the author of this thread, I think his intentions were slightly more power and bang. Not a full fledged system for shows! That's what I want atleast cause the stock is pretty weak.

I plan on:
Polk Momo 10" DVC sub
and my 850max watt amp will be placed underneath the carpet.

Anyone think I should seal the box?

I need the run down on wire plz...
Stock bazooka wire harness-
Blue-headunit control?
Red-power which i will not use( using the new wiring from my power acustic wires to battery?)
Ground is black?

All I need connected to the amp is the power, positive and ground? Then hook up the wire harness to the amp and run the sub wires to the sub?

 

are those 3 terminals on the right right side of your amp your power, remote turn on, and ground wires? I see a red and a blue wire can't see the color of the third ... if so the gauge used looks silly small ... the gauge of the speaker wire used looks bigger than the power wire ...

 

I need help guys...

My friends and I did this today with my new polk momo 10" and pioneer gm-510t, its a 2 channel amp i know but it said when bridged it would power 1 sub at 380w, just above the reccomended 300w mark but far from max 600w.

Well at low volume on my head unit the sub is alright, doesnt hit as hard as the bazooka and will miss random bass hits in the music. When I turn the volume up the sub shuts off all together and when I bring the volume back down it will turn back on but not be very loud.

What do you think is wrong? I have the gain set at normal but i tried to up it and it hit hard at low volume but i made bad sounds at high volume so i shut off fast and set it back to normal. I have the bass boost on medium setting but thats not the problem i think. And theres a little switch for LFS where u set it to power a speaker or a sub so its on sub cause when it was on speaker it played music from the sub lol!

Anyways I think we have it bridged right now but why does it sound like this? Mayde unbrdge it? then its only 125w??? Help plzzz

 

sounds like the frequency is too high or your x-over is messed up, you should have 3 tweakable settings on your amp, tweak all 3 and search for a guide to do so.

 

wait, are you using the cables from the bazooka harness to power your amp? like Kratos mentioned, the gauge of the speaker cable looks bigger than the gauge of the power cable so i can only assume that's what you did.

also, you have the stock headunit, correct?

 

good call! Definetly do not want to power your amp off of the old amp...

 

*scratching head* could your answers be any more vague? lol

also, i missed where you mentioned you have an alpine 9853 headunit.