DIY: Upgrade the bazooka sub and Amp (tons of Pix!)
07-22-2006, 07:00 PM
#41
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It works with the stock headunit.
You don't use the stock power wires from the old amp to power your new amp but you can use the blue stereo control wires and a couple of other ones instead of having to run rca wires from the head unit. I will post pics in a few days or so. My buddy just got a 12" sun installed in his car with box and everything for $299 and the guy that did his is going to take a look at my amp and see if he knows why it sounds like crap when it's bridged.
Right now I don't have it bridged and it hits way harder than stock at only 125w!
You don't use the stock power wires from the old amp to power your new amp but you can use the blue stereo control wires and a couple of other ones instead of having to run rca wires from the head unit. I will post pics in a few days or so. My buddy just got a 12" sun installed in his car with box and everything for $299 and the guy that did his is going to take a look at my amp and see if he knows why it sounds like crap when it's bridged.
Right now I don't have it bridged and it hits way harder than stock at only 125w!
07-23-2006, 04:06 AM
#44
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Originally Posted by Bluechualappa
08-22-2006, 08:24 PM
#46
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mr_lore (or anyone who knows more than me), i have a question for you. sorry, i'm a noob when it comes to car audio but i'm trying to do as much research as possible before i tackle my system upgrade.
the amp you are using (MRP-M450) has two different power ratings, 220Wx1 @ 4ohms, and 400Wx1 @ 2ohms. now, according to the manual for the subwoofer you have (SWS-1042D), placing the jumper in the position you have it in makes the sub 8 ohms. this is where i'm confused, because i didn't see anything in the amp manual about 8 ohms. am i missing something? how much power is the sub getting this way?
perhaps, did you follow the wrong jumper settings? because the previous page shows the jumper settings for the SWS-1022D sub, and for that sub with the jumper where you placed it, you end up with 4 ohms (and 220W from amp).
sub manual:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...500SWS1242.PDF
the amp you are using (MRP-M450) has two different power ratings, 220Wx1 @ 4ohms, and 400Wx1 @ 2ohms. now, according to the manual for the subwoofer you have (SWS-1042D), placing the jumper in the position you have it in makes the sub 8 ohms. this is where i'm confused, because i didn't see anything in the amp manual about 8 ohms. am i missing something? how much power is the sub getting this way?
perhaps, did you follow the wrong jumper settings? because the previous page shows the jumper settings for the SWS-1022D sub, and for that sub with the jumper where you placed it, you end up with 4 ohms (and 220W from amp).
sub manual:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...500SWS1242.PDF
08-22-2006, 08:36 PM
#47
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generally, an amp that does 400x1@2ohm, and ~200x1 @ 4ohm, will do approx 100x1@8ohm. This same amp, if stable, will do ~800x1@1ohm... this particular amp is only stable to 2ohms though. If you try to put a load of lower resistance on the sub (anything lower than 2ohm) you'll probably fry the amp.
I will agree, though that it does seem like the dual 4ohm sub that's pictured is wired at an 8ohm load where it could be wired to a 2ohm load and get 400watts from the amp. Wire it in parallel and you should be good to go.
I will agree, though that it does seem like the dual 4ohm sub that's pictured is wired at an 8ohm load where it could be wired to a 2ohm load and get 400watts from the amp. Wire it in parallel and you should be good to go.
08-22-2006, 10:40 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by SCI_TC_GUY
generally, an amp that does 400x1@2ohm, and ~200x1 @ 4ohm, will do approx 100x1@8ohm. This same amp, if stable, will do ~800x1@1ohm... this particular amp is only stable to 2ohms though. If you try to put a load of lower resistance on the sub (anything lower than 2ohm) you'll probably fry the amp.
I will agree, though that it does seem like the dual 4ohm sub that's pictured is wired at an 8ohm load where it could be wired to a 2ohm load and get 400watts from the amp. Wire it in parallel and you should be good to go.
I will agree, though that it does seem like the dual 4ohm sub that's pictured is wired at an 8ohm load where it could be wired to a 2ohm load and get 400watts from the amp. Wire it in parallel and you should be good to go.
08-22-2006, 10:43 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by fastandcurious
Originally Posted by SCI_TC_GUY
generally, an amp that does 400x1@2ohm, and ~200x1 @ 4ohm, will do approx 100x1@8ohm. This same amp, if stable, will do ~800x1@1ohm... this particular amp is only stable to 2ohms though. If you try to put a load of lower resistance on the sub (anything lower than 2ohm) you'll probably fry the amp.
I will agree, though that it does seem like the dual 4ohm sub that's pictured is wired at an 8ohm load where it could be wired to a 2ohm load and get 400watts from the amp. Wire it in parallel and you should be good to go.
I will agree, though that it does seem like the dual 4ohm sub that's pictured is wired at an 8ohm load where it could be wired to a 2ohm load and get 400watts from the amp. Wire it in parallel and you should be good to go.
Good catch...When I first read your post I was like 8ohms, this guys out to lunch but then I remember installing it and thinking to myself I should start low and go up if I need too. I was so happy with the end result I never bothered to tinker with it.
08-23-2006, 11:47 AM
#51
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One thing I'd definitely look into, is sealing up the port if you're swapping out the sub. Ported boxes need to be tuned to the thiele/small parameters of the specific sub that the enclosure will house. Sealed boxes have a MUCH larger margin for error.
just a thought.
just a thought.
09-12-2006, 04:52 PM
#53
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mr_lore, thanks again for posting up this information. my sub hits so hard that it cracked the enclosure! 
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...751&highlight=
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...751&highlight=
09-12-2006, 06:19 PM
#56
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i'm actually trying to look into whether i should use some poly-fil. i was looking for the thread where someone made a rough estimate of how much air space is in the box but i can't find it. i know you're supposed to use about 1 lb of poly-fil for every cubic foot of box volume.
i think if i carpet the inside with a layer of poly-fil it should help it out. i don't really want to stuff it since i know too much can hurt the performance and to be honest it sounds good as it is.
other than cruthfield ($12.99 plus shipping), anyone know where to get this stuff cheap?
i think if i carpet the inside with a layer of poly-fil it should help it out. i don't really want to stuff it since i know too much can hurt the performance and to be honest it sounds good as it is.
other than cruthfield ($12.99 plus shipping), anyone know where to get this stuff cheap?
09-13-2006, 01:20 AM
#60
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well I converted the VSE box a while back with a Diamond Audio D3 Sub along with a 4 channel amp, then today I plugged it with the pipe plug and have to say not a huge amount of difference, maybe there is something else I need to play with, maybe EQ settings on my AVN6600, who knows