OEM Bazooka Sub help - finding a sub with the right diameter to fit
#1
OEM Bazooka Sub help - finding a sub with the right diameter to fit
Hello:
I have a bazooka sub (OEM) side mount that I am trying to replace the subwoofer. Nothing wrong with the one that came with the box, just wanted to upgrade, plus I have an after market amp.
I bought this: Pioneer TS-W260D4
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-W260D4.html
issue is that the lip of the sub is to wide (hole to hole diameter is 10 1/4") but the oem hole to hole diameter is 9 and 3/4"
the sub fits in the cut out but the lip is to wide and prevents it from sitting flush on the box
when I attempt to fit the sub, the OEM bazooka box has a lip (about 1" thick that prevents the speaker from sitting flush.
I am trying to avoid shaving that lip.
my question is:
Does anyone know any good site where I can research subwoofers to include the mounting diameter (hole to hole) before I make another purchase and throw more money out?
I have a bazooka sub (OEM) side mount that I am trying to replace the subwoofer. Nothing wrong with the one that came with the box, just wanted to upgrade, plus I have an after market amp.
I bought this: Pioneer TS-W260D4
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TS-W260D4.html
issue is that the lip of the sub is to wide (hole to hole diameter is 10 1/4") but the oem hole to hole diameter is 9 and 3/4"
the sub fits in the cut out but the lip is to wide and prevents it from sitting flush on the box
when I attempt to fit the sub, the OEM bazooka box has a lip (about 1" thick that prevents the speaker from sitting flush.
I am trying to avoid shaving that lip.
my question is:
Does anyone know any good site where I can research subwoofers to include the mounting diameter (hole to hole) before I make another purchase and throw more money out?
#3
You just FREAK-ed my mind. didnt think of a spacer hhmm so where can I obtain a cheap spacer. I dont care much bout the grill since my new sub is the cooler than a fan.
and yes that would work, i would prob have to paint/carpet the spacer to match the black, then gasket it, screw it and then put the sub on that. good idea, now links to where I can obtain one. I would need it to be a perfect 10" diameter or close to that.
and yes that would work, i would prob have to paint/carpet the spacer to match the black, then gasket it, screw it and then put the sub on that. good idea, now links to where I can obtain one. I would need it to be a perfect 10" diameter or close to that.
#4
#7
I measured the box for the rings, and I have the measurements at home but I think it will look extra funky, the grill/cover will not fit at all over it. The sub will be sticking out about 1/4 inch, dont know if this will distort the sound of the box at all.
I think the rings are a nice idea but the thickness (height) alone may cause it to look funky plus you will have to paint/carpet the ring to make it look some what OEM.
Also i ran into a problem because with the measurements, the width of the ring cannot be that big, less than 1/4 i think, so it will be tricky drilling it so it dont splinter.
I wouldnt mind buying a new sub that will fit in the bazooka box, but most stores only offer the cut out diameter and do not note the thickness (width) of the lip of the sub.
If needed I have the exact messsurements of the ring at home.
The Difference between the ID and OD is about 1/4 making it tricky for drilling
any other ideas?
by doing searches on this site, some people had good luck with alpine subs, but the ones they used are discontinued, not sure which ones will truly fit.
If you still have the bazooka sub, the sub lip thickness is what you need to replicate on your new sub, but thats very hard since that information is not available, only by looking at the back of the box of the new sub may you be able to see it.
I think the rings are a nice idea but the thickness (height) alone may cause it to look funky plus you will have to paint/carpet the ring to make it look some what OEM.
Also i ran into a problem because with the measurements, the width of the ring cannot be that big, less than 1/4 i think, so it will be tricky drilling it so it dont splinter.
I wouldnt mind buying a new sub that will fit in the bazooka box, but most stores only offer the cut out diameter and do not note the thickness (width) of the lip of the sub.
If needed I have the exact messsurements of the ring at home.
The Difference between the ID and OD is about 1/4 making it tricky for drilling
any other ideas?
by doing searches on this site, some people had good luck with alpine subs, but the ones they used are discontinued, not sure which ones will truly fit.
If you still have the bazooka sub, the sub lip thickness is what you need to replicate on your new sub, but thats very hard since that information is not available, only by looking at the back of the box of the new sub may you be able to see it.
#8
I just realised something today as well. I don't if it may be the cause but it seems not all the Bazooka boxes for our cars are made the same. In this photo you can see some sort of spacer/lip surrounding the subwoofer ****. Mine does not have that. The hole itself looks a little bigger too.
I tried fitting the currently available JL 10W3v3 and that does not fit in my box while I've seen older ones made a few years ago fit other Scion tC Bazooka boxes.
I tried fitting the currently available JL 10W3v3 and that does not fit in my box while I've seen older ones made a few years ago fit other Scion tC Bazooka boxes.
#11
So I finally got my sub, speakers and head unit installed. A buddy of mine was a lot of help. What I have now in my new setup is;
- Alpine Type-S Component and Coaxial speakers
- Polk Audio 10' Sub
- Pioneer AVH-1400DVD
- 800w Crunch Amp
I don't have pictures yet but so far the system is better than the older setup. My main issue I'm having now is everything rattles a hell of a lot more than it used to. My custom C-pillar bar rattles so I need to tighten that down. Everything else that rattles is the hatch, license plate and interior panels in the hatch area. I placed my amp in the foam section right underneath the sub so I can still have space to put whatever in the back. I need to do some adjustments with the headunit and my system to sound the way I want it. Drives me nuts with all the rattling.
- Alpine Type-S Component and Coaxial speakers
- Polk Audio 10' Sub
- Pioneer AVH-1400DVD
- 800w Crunch Amp
I don't have pictures yet but so far the system is better than the older setup. My main issue I'm having now is everything rattles a hell of a lot more than it used to. My custom C-pillar bar rattles so I need to tighten that down. Everything else that rattles is the hatch, license plate and interior panels in the hatch area. I placed my amp in the foam section right underneath the sub so I can still have space to put whatever in the back. I need to do some adjustments with the headunit and my system to sound the way I want it. Drives me nuts with all the rattling.
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