these are both 6-1/2 - 6-3/4 subs (have to put baby's stroller in car so can't go any bigger) just want to know if i would notice a significant difference between the two..one is sold as a pair and classified as a mid bass sub and the other is sold separately classified as a regular sub. looking at the specs it seems like there wouldn't be too much difference. i don't bump the volume up too loud just want something better than the stock subs. do i still need an amp for these?

Kicker 04SSMB6
Technical Specification

* Sensitivity: 88 dB
* RMS Power Range : 8-125 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 250 Watts
* Impedance: 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 30 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 500 Hz
* Diameter: 6.75 Inch

Features

* Tri-Tech cone (sandwiched foam, polypropylene, and woven carbon fiber)
* Santoprene rubber surround
* low profile stamped steel basket
* spring-loaded nickel-plated terminals accept heavy-gauge speaker wire
* free-air capability
* flush-mount depth: 2-1/16"
* Priced per pair

Kicker 08CVT654
Technical Specification

* Sensitivity: 84.6 dB
* RMS Power Range : 50-150 Watts
* Peak Power Handling: 300 Watts
* Impedance: 4 Ohm
* Low Frequency response: 30 Hz
* High Frequency Response: 350 Hz
* Diameter: 6 Inch

Features

* Ultra-thin mounting depth
* Ribbed Santoprene Surround
* Suitable for marine use
* Works in free-air applications
* Uniplate backplate
* Spring loaded binding posts
* High temp coil wire
* Injection-molded polypropylene woofer cone
* Perimeter venting
* Steel basket
* Priced per speaker

 

not a fan of cvt's but that's just personal preference. and these are both just component/midbass speakers that usually just replace your stock speakers(not subwoofers)

 

i found both of them classified as subwoofers on multiple websites..these are one of the few i found that were good names...i think the rest were pyle and lanzar

 

check elemental designs for 6 1/2"subs,they are actual subs here is the link

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=33

you can get in either D2 or D4 and they hold 200w each.....and yes you will need an amp to make a sub do anything worthwhile.

 

oh; wasn't aware of that. usually 8's are smalled and 6.5 are just basic component speakers

 

get the one with higher sensitivity...

higher sensitivity = more efficiency = needs less power to sound better in BOTH sq and spl, but especially sq...

if i am wrong, someone please give me the correct details, but i am 90% sure i am correct

 

yeah the two items you specified are speakers not subwoofers. you really dont need to limit yourself to a 6 inch woofer though.

look at how compact my 10" sub is in a sealed enclosure:

 

You can definitely get away with good sound, stealth and space conservation.

Check out the elemental designs slimline enclosure with their slimline SQ10 woofer.


Or you could go custom and do a spare delete and get a 11" woofer in the trunk.


Bigger woofer = deeper, smoother, better bass.

And yes you will need an external amp to power subwoofers. Except for the Bazooka VSE which has an amp built in but its butt ugly and with sound to match it's looks.

 

both items i specified are subs

here's the cvt:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...ubwoofers.html

i appreciate everyone's input i think i might check out those E.D.'s thanks

 

over all i would go with the ED sleath box.

 

Yes they are subs, and yes they suck monkey *****, don't do it you'll honestly hate it the bass from them is muffled at best. Do the stealth box its so much better for that you want to do.
To give you a better idea, the 5 years I worked at a custom shop, we installed 8" or smaller subs 2 times, 1 of those times the person upgraded to a stealth box with a 12" within a week, the other person took a little longer but upgraded to a dual 10" stealth enclousue after 2 months with 3 6.5" subs.

So as always its your choice because it comes down to what you use your vehicle for. But my personal opinion is you'll enjoy the stealth box a whole lot more.

 

That type of spec doesn't mean anything when they don't provide more info, specifically "tolerance". If it's -3dB @ 30Hz that'd be great, but it could be -20 dB @ 30Hz, which would suck. This is why it's often better to look for the "Fs" spec (resonant frequency), but they didn't provide that on the site you linked to. Additionally, the "Xmax" is another important aspect, since a sub is essentially an air pump and the further it can move, the more air it'll push (especially important when looking at small subs), yet they don't provide that spec either.

It's not like you can't get decent bass from small subs, but you're likely better off looking into something like ED's stealthbox, as that'd be easier too.

 

Are you selling this enclosure