Anyone else come across this?

I was putting in some air horns yesterday and disconnected the negative terminal from the battery for a little while. I reconnected the battery and blew a fuse when I was testing the wires to the cigarette lighter (trying to figure out which was positive). The fuse that blew was for the cigarette lighter though.

After everything was installed, I started the car, but noticed that it was idling pretty rough. Today, I started the car and it immediately died. Started it a second time and it stayed on, but was idling a little rough and the CEL came on.
I tried to drive a little bit, but the fuel cut-off kicks in at 3k RPM. I'm wondering if the the ECU got confused when I had it disconnected or something. I have the reflash for the the TRD supercharger and hope that wasn't affected.

What doesn't make sense is I had the battery disconnected at the OC Car Show a couple months ago, which was a 2 day event. I didn't have any problems from that. It actually felt like my car was running better afterwards.

But if anyone has some ideas, I'd like to hear them. I'm going to Autozone tomorrow to have the Code read and take it from there. I think the closest dealership that can do a TRD reflash is about 30 miles away. I'm hoping I don't have to drive that far to get this fixed.

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i'd just try disconnecting the battery again (positive this time) and reset everything again and see if that helps.

 

^^ What he said

 

LoL @ safe mode. Did it crash? [/computer nerd]

But on a serious note, i've read of this same issue before. It was after a guy installed his Injen CAI.

 

Did you get a BSOD? LOL j/k

I'd do the same as mentioned. Disconnect the battery for 10 min and hook it back up.

 

Just glad Bill Gates didn't have anything to do with car computers; Security updates every other day, BSOD every once in a while, reboot the computer every few days... the Apple guys sitting on their high-horse saying they don't have any of those problems...

I tried removing the fuse for the EFI, hoping I wouldnt' have to disconnect the battery again, but that didn't help. We'll see what happens.

 

Just so you know, it's called limp mode, not safe mode.

 

Just reset the ECU again and drive it around the neighborhood with a light foot.

 

Well, I left the battery disconnected for over an hour, still have the CEL, but I can rev over 3k RPM. The car is running a little rich, still stalls after starting, and get hesitation while pressing the accelerator. I think I need to reinstall windows. I think the closest dealer that can do the TRD reflash is about 30 minutes away :p. This sucks.

 

At least my air horns are working, lol. I'm taking my car to the dealer and see what they can do. I really hope it just needs a reflash.

 

cool safe mode, now you can save some gas.

 

Well, on my way to work this afternoon, I took my car to Autozone to have the codes read and found P0102 and P0113. One is for the MAF sensor, the other is the "Air Temp" sensor. I did take apart the intake box to get a little more room to run the wires for the horn. I'll check everything after I get off work. I'm still taking it to the dealer on Wednesday to make sure everything is OK.

 

BTW, most auto stores can read the codes for free, and the link below lists what all the basic codes mean.
http://www.dmv.de.gov/services/Vehic...s/dtc_list.pdf

 

if you take it to the dealerhip, just be ready for them to blame your air horns and try to charge you for looking at it.

 

Don't worry, not taking it to the dealer. Besides, I know some of the guys at the dealership and they're pretty cool.

Anyways, I feel as a friend of mine put it "You are we tall dead". Turns out that when I moved the air filter box cover, I accidentally disconnected the wire harness to the sensor. Just had to reconnect it and clear the codes. Thanks all.