New rotors or not?
#1
New rotors or not?
Hi everyone. Sorry I'm new to working on my car and all this car stuff, so I apologize in advance.
So my brakes have been squeaking on me occasionally. I'm at ~30k miles on it so I probably need to replace them. It's not a constant squeaking, it does happen almost every time I drive, but only on very mild braking do I hear a slight squeak. Its not loud. Is it normal for low brake pad squeaking to not occur under moderate-hard braking?
So the second note is that I have been driving around for over a month with this occasional squeaking noise thinking it was just some buildup from overnight parking. But now I'm worried that my rotors may be warped because I've been driving around with this squeaky sound. How would I know if they're warped and need to be replaced in addition to the pads? If I put my finger along the rotor will there be a significant groove, or does even a minor groove mean I should replace it? I havent noticed any brake pedal vibration while braking, but I normally drive pretty slow and don't really ever brake hard. Would vibration be easier to tell at light braking or heavy braking? Are there any other ways I can check for rotor damage?
Preferably I want to try installing new front brake pads (i'm a beginner at messing with my car). I'm pretty certain only the front brake pads are out. But if I need new rotors, I'd prefer to order them together in a combo package.
So my brakes have been squeaking on me occasionally. I'm at ~30k miles on it so I probably need to replace them. It's not a constant squeaking, it does happen almost every time I drive, but only on very mild braking do I hear a slight squeak. Its not loud. Is it normal for low brake pad squeaking to not occur under moderate-hard braking?
So the second note is that I have been driving around for over a month with this occasional squeaking noise thinking it was just some buildup from overnight parking. But now I'm worried that my rotors may be warped because I've been driving around with this squeaky sound. How would I know if they're warped and need to be replaced in addition to the pads? If I put my finger along the rotor will there be a significant groove, or does even a minor groove mean I should replace it? I havent noticed any brake pedal vibration while braking, but I normally drive pretty slow and don't really ever brake hard. Would vibration be easier to tell at light braking or heavy braking? Are there any other ways I can check for rotor damage?
Preferably I want to try installing new front brake pads (i'm a beginner at messing with my car). I'm pretty certain only the front brake pads are out. But if I need new rotors, I'd prefer to order them together in a combo package.
#2
If its just squeaking then replace the pads, now if you feel vibrations in the steering wheel each time you press the brakes, then you have warped rotors that needs to be replaced. Get on the high way, preferably not alot of cars at the moment, and brake from 60 to about 35-40, try braking hard and slow ( Please don't get raped in the butt by another car thats not paying attention) ** plz be safe and smart about it**
No point in replacing something that doesn't need to be. If rotors are fine then save yo money.
Better yet since you're at 30k change your oil and ask the place to see if the pads need to be replaced.
No point in replacing something that doesn't need to be. If rotors are fine then save yo money.
Better yet since you're at 30k change your oil and ask the place to see if the pads need to be replaced.
#3
If you do need to replace your rotors check out dezod's website. They have 4 rotors and pads all the way around (Stop Tech) for like $250 last time I checked. I am running those on my car. They are great for DD but I might go back to TRD'S next time I change the brakes, which is what came with the car.
#4
I guess everyone goes through brakes differently... I replaced my first front pads ever at 98,000. Resurfaced the rotors. Rear pads are still at 60%.
If you're not too good at car stuff go in to the dealership and ask for a brake inspection. It's like $30. They'll tell you what pad percentage you're at and all that stuff.
If you're not too good at car stuff go in to the dealership and ask for a brake inspection. It's like $30. They'll tell you what pad percentage you're at and all that stuff.
#7
They might have good pad life and be perfectly fine and still squeak. Usually, greasing the anti-squeal shims will fix the squeak.
The slipping feeling is the anti-lock brake system going into effect. It helps you stop quicker because slipping tires is less friction than static friction when your tires have actual traction.
You would know if your rotors are warped if you get a shaking during braking in the pedal. The brake pads would be oscillating and sending that back to the pedal.
The slipping feeling is the anti-lock brake system going into effect. It helps you stop quicker because slipping tires is less friction than static friction when your tires have actual traction.
You would know if your rotors are warped if you get a shaking during braking in the pedal. The brake pads would be oscillating and sending that back to the pedal.
#10
#11
Not really it is the economy brake package. You can't go to an auto parts store and buy 4 rotors, and pads for $250
http://www.dezod.com/pd_dezod_motorsports.cfm
#12
I wouldn't waste the money. Stick with the rotors you have. If you do need new rotors, upgrade or stick with OEM like rotors. Ebay has rotors and pads for like $110ish. I just took a quick glance. For the money for the Dezod, you can get drilled/slotted...
#13
I picked up FRONT set of Bosch quietcast rotors AND wagner thermoquiet pads ceramic for $132 at oreillys.. So add the rears and you'll get around $220 ....
So why not?
#16
#19
The 95% positive way to know if you have warped rotors... exit off the freeway (or on a country road) drive to 60mph, then brake hard but not fully engaged braking. If you feel "Pulsating" vibration coming through to the pedal, they are warped.
#20
I will only point out that to actually "warp a rotor" you need to heat the entire thing to the point of where the metal would be weak enough to become misshapen. This temperature will be FAR MORE then that produced by braking on a DD. Even race teams don't create enough heat. The true term is "excessive lateral runout" and is caused by uneven pad pressure during braking.