Ok so I picked up a set of wheel spacers a few months back and finally got around to installing them because I was going to rotate my tires. I pulled the rear wheel, then the caliper but the life of me could not get the rotor off. I see that there are two small threaded holes on the caliper (center area) that appears to be where some sort of slide hammer would be mounted. Anyone pulled their rear rotors off or installed spacers before? Any qick tips to pulling the rotors off? I tell ya, that thing wouldn't frickn move! To make things worse, the next part of the install would have been removing the studs then adding the newer longer ones which is what I figured was going to give me a hard time but I didn't even make it that far!

BTW, the car is a 2010 tc 1g. Looking to add 20mm on the rear and 15mm on the front.

 

Why do you need to pull off the Rotor?..Are you replacing the rotor also?

What brand of Spacers did you get also??

 

I don't know the brand as I bought them used from a member on here and for the life of me just can't remember.

Because of the size/thickness of the spacers, I have to replace the studs. I just figured it would be easier to see what I was doing if the rotor was out of the way. Eventually the spacer would sit in front of the rotor (closer to the wheel) but I wanted the rotor off for the ease of banging out the studs and what not. Eventually, I'll have to replace my rotors as well so it would still be nice to know how the hell people are getting them off.

 

Aww...ok.

Well I have the Ichiba V2 Spacers. they have the Studs attached to the Spacer already...Hopefully the one you have has the studs attached???

Do your wheels have the cut-outs between the wheel holes?

My old wheels did not...I had to grind my studs don after adding the Spacers...so the wheel hub sat flush. My new wheels have the cur-outs now.

I eventually have to replace ALL my wheel studs too

 

My wheels have the cut outs (noticed that when I had them off). The spacers actuall have holes that the stock studs could go thru as well. However, from what I read on them and from what I was told by the guy that sold them to me, he said he banged out the stock studs and replaced them with the longer ones that came with the spacers, slipped the spacer over them with the hub centric rings that were also included and bolted the wheel back on. I figured the worst part would be banging out/in the studs but never made it that far.

I'm not going to lie, when I was playing around with it, I didn't even think about just piling them up if you will. I mean putting the spacer on with the new studs behind it and then the wheel and lugz. If I do that however, I know I will have studs hanging out like some Roman charriot and would then have to get new lug nuts as well. Apparently the studs that came with them are designed to replace the stock studs all together.

 

Ok, let me be clear, my spacers have 10 holes in them. I assume that one set would be to slip over the stock studs and the others for installing the other set of studs thru. However, knowing that I have longer studs that were designed to go thru the stock hub, rotor and new spacer, it only makes sense to use those.

 

Ok, just got off the phone with a car nut friend of mine. Apparently the little threaded holes are there so that you can use a screw to thread into it to act as a wedge to drive it off the hub. He also suggested spraying some form of rust buster in them before starting to help break any rust up. So, that makes total sense at this point and should go pretty smoothly.

 

Can you post pictures of the Spacers you got?

Try to find out what brand they are too?

Or if they are just some cheap **** ones from Ebay??

 

I'll see what I can find out. I was trying to track down the old classified thread but couldn't locate it. I'll send the seller a message to see if he remembers. I'll also take a look at them this evening and look for any markings (they weren't in the original box as he had run them for about a month before picking up a different set of wheels).

If they are cheapos from Ebay I would have to say that they appear to be pretty good quality/well made. They fit on to the hub like a glove and have a separate aluminum hub centrick ring in them. Don't worry, I'm not taking any offense to the idea that they could be cheap ones. Wost case is I will snap some pictures of them and get them posted up.

I remember liking the idea of not having to shave my stock studs when I was looking for spacers so this sort of fit the bill.

 

Getting the brake rotors off shouldn't be that difficult. Just remember to lower the e-brake for the rear ones. I personally used a rubber mallet and tapped the rotor on the top, bottom, side to side until it was loose.

 

your better off with ichibia v2 bolt on spacer,

 

I think everyone has figured out that he has slip-on spacers with extended wheel studs that have to be pressed in. Yes getting the rear rotors off took a bit of hammering(using a rubber mallet of course) on them, make sure the e-brake is lowered inside the car. The worst part was getting the hub off, WD-40 helps and some type of puller/slide hammer tool would have made it easier to remove, but I just put the rotor on backwards and hand tightened a few lugnuts and tapped the rotor with the mallet to get the hub off. I posted on another thread a link to torque specs and removal/install of the rear hub and caliper. I went to O'reilly's to get washers and an open lug nut for a '92 Corolla to tighten/press the extended wheel studs.

 

for the rear rotors removal,theres two screw holes that are not used on the outside of the rotor i believe,m8.1.25.......if you screw it into the holes,ill brakee the rotor free alot easier,i know that what i did,

 

^That too, I forgot the screw size so just went ahead with the bash away at it method.

 

Well, I gave it a shot yet again. This was more so just to see if I could get the rotor off and what the next step would be.

I used a 6mm bolt and threaded it/them into the two holes and sure enough, the rotor popped right off (yes, I am sure that not having the parking brake on probably helped). I was then able to see what the next issue would be.

I am sure that I could knock the old studs out but it really doesn't look like there is enough room for them to come all the way out or for me to even get the longer ones in there and thru the hole.

So the question now is/are:

Do you need to take that hub portion off?
Has anyone else done this?
Is there enough room to get the studs out with out pulling the hub?

 

These are what mine look like Ichiba brand...Studs attached and came w/ its own set of special lugnuts to attach the Spacer to the hub.

 

Yep, saw those this morning when doing a little searching. I will more than likely order some new ones as I am done with the @$$ woopin these have been putting on me.

I shouldn't have to cut/grind down the studs if my wheels have the cut outs right?

May be ordering quite a few parts for the car here as soon as all the money is freed up in my paypal account (apparently if you don't sell anything for a month on ebay they classify you as a new seller and then put a frickn 21 day hold on your funds in paypal. They say that this is to ensure that the funds are available should a refund be needed...but isn't that why you have to have a back up funding source??? What a scam. By doing this they are able to keep the funds in their accounts generating interest for them rather than my being able to use it. And don't even get me started on the stupid fee rates they all hit you with!)

Ok sorry for the rant. My next question is what is really the difference between the above that costs $126/pair and the $60 ones that appear to look identical (aside from the color of the studs) and are also hub centric at 54.1?

Also wondering if staggered at 20 rear and 15 front is good or if I should go 20 at all 4 corners? Gonna be running the stock wheels and tire size anyway and sitting on H techs. I don't think I'm going to drop the car any more (not for now anyway) so I doubt rubbing will be an issue but I don't want the wheels sticking out from under the car if it doesn't have the right stance either.

From looking down on the fender to the ground it looks like they will end up being very close to flush if not slightly inward.

 

I pulled off the rear hub, I think anything longer than OEM will not fit unless the hub is removed. BTW, I have ARP extended wheel studs for an IS300 installed that are an inch longer than OEM.