DIY: 2nd Reverse Light
did anyone try LED for the reverse light?
These 2 should fit:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...F744x-xHP3.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...744x-x18-T.htm
Also, how does the socket actually stay in the cut-out? do u guys glue it or what?
These 2 should fit:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...F744x-xHP3.htm
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...744x-x18-T.htm
Also, how does the socket actually stay in the cut-out? do u guys glue it or what?
Here is what I did for wiring. You only need to run one wire(the positive). Also I tapped into the wires below the white connector so that if i ever had to remove the light I wouldnt have to retap in.




This is the LED I used:





This is the LED I used:

I found a 7440 socket on ebay for $1.85 w/ free shipping, from a reseller with many exemplary reviews:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7440-...item4aaa668dbf
And ordered Silverstar 4000k color temp 7440 bulbs for $4/ea. Not ready yet to go LED, not till I can be sure they'll be around 4000k, my preferred color temp. I'm pretty picky on white balance, do NOT like blue at all in my lights, not even sure I like pure white. A gentle, subtle touch of yellow gets me pretty randy, however. That (to me at least) looks cool, without it looking like you're trying to look cool. And that's the most genuine cool of all, IMO.
Overall should be anywhere between 2 to 2.5x the brightness of the stock, single reverse bulb, once I've got everything set up, and no more people trying to run up around my car while I'm reversing to tell me I've got a bulb out should by all rights lower my insurance premiums.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7440-...item4aaa668dbf
And ordered Silverstar 4000k color temp 7440 bulbs for $4/ea. Not ready yet to go LED, not till I can be sure they'll be around 4000k, my preferred color temp. I'm pretty picky on white balance, do NOT like blue at all in my lights, not even sure I like pure white. A gentle, subtle touch of yellow gets me pretty randy, however. That (to me at least) looks cool, without it looking like you're trying to look cool. And that's the most genuine cool of all, IMO.
Overall should be anywhere between 2 to 2.5x the brightness of the stock, single reverse bulb, once I've got everything set up, and no more people trying to run up around my car while I'm reversing to tell me I've got a bulb out should by all rights lower my insurance premiums.
I received the part from ebay and installed my second reverse light last night. Works fine! A steal for the price I paid for it ($1.85), if you can wait up to two weeks for it to arrive.
I'm using Sylvania Silverstar 7440 bulbs, which seem to be a neutral shade of white, probably somewhere around 4300-4500k though I think they're spec'd for 4000k. Maybe I'm imagining things but I'd say they're just a touch above 4000k.
Anyway, I'm finally happy with my reverse lighting situation.
I'm using Sylvania Silverstar 7440 bulbs, which seem to be a neutral shade of white, probably somewhere around 4300-4500k though I think they're spec'd for 4000k. Maybe I'm imagining things but I'd say they're just a touch above 4000k.
Anyway, I'm finally happy with my reverse lighting situation.
Well, got my replacement socket yesterday after about two weeks (yeay China air!) and spent hours today installing it. I wanted it to look as nice as possible so I ran the 18 AWG wire through the factory split loom. This really added a lot more time and labor to the job than I had anticipated but I'm really happy with it.
I also soldered the ground to the common ground of the right side lights as seen in the first picture. I made the cut out with a drill bit and then cleaned it up with a file. The socket fits nice and snug. I used Sylvania Silverstar Bulbs and also made it disconnectable as someone suggested earlier. Great idea in case the right enclosure needs to be removed.





I also soldered the ground to the common ground of the right side lights as seen in the first picture. I made the cut out with a drill bit and then cleaned it up with a file. The socket fits nice and snug. I used Sylvania Silverstar Bulbs and also made it disconnectable as someone suggested earlier. Great idea in case the right enclosure needs to be removed.





I'm really loving the 4000k of those Silverstars. Such a nuanced look without sacrificing much useful light, unlike PIAA's Xtreme Super White 7440's which use about twice as much blue tint on the bulb. I think PIAA shoot for at least 5500K with their Xtreme Super White line.
Aside but related, I ordered some PIAA Xtreme Super White 168 bulbs . . . they were useless as an interior dome light. So much forced blue via the blue tint that light output was abysmal and they were nowhere near the 4000k I was hoping for, so for now I've replaced my dome lights with standard-fare bulb model# 3652, which Daniel Stern alleges put out 50% more light than the 168's (Toshiba W5W's) that come with the vehicle. They are pretty bright but 3000k is a pretty dated look . . . .
Anyway, just an FYI. PIAA Xtreme Super White aren't anything like the more subtle Silverstars.
Aside but related, I ordered some PIAA Xtreme Super White 168 bulbs . . . they were useless as an interior dome light. So much forced blue via the blue tint that light output was abysmal and they were nowhere near the 4000k I was hoping for, so for now I've replaced my dome lights with standard-fare bulb model# 3652, which Daniel Stern alleges put out 50% more light than the 168's (Toshiba W5W's) that come with the vehicle. They are pretty bright but 3000k is a pretty dated look . . . .
Anyway, just an FYI. PIAA Xtreme Super White aren't anything like the more subtle Silverstars.
I took a slightly different path to save myself the trouble of cutting out the notches for the socket.
First, I marked the circle around where the socket will go then started drilling. I made the hole as close to the markings as possible then slowly widened it until the socket snugly fit in.

I then used wire cutters and clipped the notches/tabs off the socket itself.

The socket still has the rubber grommet and I actually need to use pliers to get the socket out. So I'm not worried about moisture getting in there or the socket coming loose.
Also, as to not cut into any stock wiring, I twisted the tip of my power wire and soldered it so it was stiff. I then took vice grips to flatten this new soldered end piece I made. Once it was flattened, it snugly fit into the back of the actual plug on the stock harness with the reverse wires.

As you can see from the above picture, I used connectors on my wires for easy removal. I attached a connector on the green power wire on the socket itself and then a long wire with a connector on both ends in the middle. So if I need to remove either tail light for whatever reason, quick release.
As for the ground, I used a flat round grounding end (not sure what they're called) and just grounded it to one of the three bolts holding the tail light in.

After all was said and done, I had a very clean setup with no soldering (except the end of that wire) and no cutting into stock wiring.
I apologize for the dirty car... I took it to get cleaned up right after I was done.

I have 2 LED bulbs coming in soon; possibly arriving tomorrow. I'll update with a picture of those when I get them put in.
Thanks for all the information to allow me to get this done! The one reverse light was driving me nuts. It felt like my car was gimped.
First, I marked the circle around where the socket will go then started drilling. I made the hole as close to the markings as possible then slowly widened it until the socket snugly fit in.

I then used wire cutters and clipped the notches/tabs off the socket itself.

The socket still has the rubber grommet and I actually need to use pliers to get the socket out. So I'm not worried about moisture getting in there or the socket coming loose.
Also, as to not cut into any stock wiring, I twisted the tip of my power wire and soldered it so it was stiff. I then took vice grips to flatten this new soldered end piece I made. Once it was flattened, it snugly fit into the back of the actual plug on the stock harness with the reverse wires.

As you can see from the above picture, I used connectors on my wires for easy removal. I attached a connector on the green power wire on the socket itself and then a long wire with a connector on both ends in the middle. So if I need to remove either tail light for whatever reason, quick release.
As for the ground, I used a flat round grounding end (not sure what they're called) and just grounded it to one of the three bolts holding the tail light in.
After all was said and done, I had a very clean setup with no soldering (except the end of that wire) and no cutting into stock wiring.
I apologize for the dirty car... I took it to get cleaned up right after I was done.

I have 2 LED bulbs coming in soon; possibly arriving tomorrow. I'll update with a picture of those when I get them put in.
Thanks for all the information to allow me to get this done! The one reverse light was driving me nuts. It felt like my car was gimped.
my chinese connector just came in! bulbs have been waiting a bit. question is, my bulb doesn't seem to go in the socket! it's the 7440 st silverstar bulbs with the connector from china. do i have to force the bulb in? a snug fit should suffice is what i'm thinking it should do!!
update: it fit like a glove with a little elbow grease.....doh!
update: it fit like a glove with a little elbow grease.....doh!
Last edited by ivanhoe; Nov 25, 2011 at 03:37 AM.
Tookuro, I believe white is positive and black is ground, but I'm not 100% sure. If you just tap into the factory wire harness on the driver side and keep the colors the same to the new socket on the passenger side, you should be all set. In my case I had blue and black wires on the new socket so I went white to blue and black to black.
Just finished wiring up my second reverse light. Was successful, just with the exception of 2 cuts on my finger
. Interestingly the tC RS 7.0 has both reverse lights. So if anyone doesn't want to go through the process fabricating a light socket you can try ordering the RS 7.0 right Tail Light assembly, tho I imagine it wouldn't be cheap. Also all White/Black Stripe wires are ground.
. Interestingly the tC RS 7.0 has both reverse lights. So if anyone doesn't want to go through the process fabricating a light socket you can try ordering the RS 7.0 right Tail Light assembly, tho I imagine it wouldn't be cheap. Also all White/Black Stripe wires are ground.











