2014+ Scion tC Auto to Manual swap..
Before I start, I’ve already done a good amount to the car and I have a pretty big sentimental attachment to the car, so trading in is not an option. Please do not comment saying “it’s not worth it”. Also doing some building is fun too.
I’d like to see what is needed to do a auto to manual swap for these cars and a rough cost and if everything will bolt right in. So far I assume I need the transmission w/ clutch and flywheel, shifter cables, possibly a new ECU and harness, clutch pedal, master cyl, shift linkage, maybe axles? if the auto ones work then no. Pretty sure I’m missing a bunch but if the people that have experience with it could tell me what’s involved will be appreciated. ____ |
I guess by the lack of response to your question, you've taken to another site for info.
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Originally Posted by joeq
(Post 4307861)
I guess by the lack of response to your question, you've taken to another site for info.
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From what I've seen these transmissions going for ($2500+ for rebuilds) plus all the rest of the parts, you're probably looking in the $4-5k range for everything you'd need to do the swap if you do most of the things new/oem. Should be as simple as buying all the parts and bolting them up though once they're acquired. If you ever go thru with it, grab a lightweight flywheel/short shifter when you do the install - I find the stock flywheel rpm's to hang for too long when shifting. Also throw Redline MT-LV fluid in it. But as far as specifically what all you would need I can't say as the only reason I bought the tC to begin with was because it was the only MTX available in my area. Maybe try to find a wrecked MTX and swap the parts over and part-out what you don't need. If you go that route though, the 14+ seems to be more reliable on the inner transmission bearings.
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And there you have it GoldenA. Mr.drizzoh has got the ball rolling for you. Think you might be interested in it still?
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Originally Posted by joeq
(Post 4307869)
And there you have it GoldenA. Mr.drizzoh has got the ball rolling for you. Think you might be interested in it still?
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Then you'll wanna follow the number of threads going here, addressing the "failing" input shaft bearings. Guess it's a common problem, and not sure if anyone knows if the replacement bearings are any better quality wise.
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Originally Posted by joeq
(Post 4307873)
Then you'll wanna follow the number of threads going here, addressing the "failing" input shaft bearings. Guess it's a common problem, and not sure if anyone knows if the replacement bearings are any better quality wise.
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Originally Posted by xTheGoldenArrow
(Post 4307876)
yup already know about the TOB issue. big problem with the EB60 for some reason.
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I'm glad you cleared that up drizz. So much misinformation when it comes to this issue. I'm trying to bury the old terminology of "TOB", (throw out bearing....for those who don't know it.) These new hydraulic devices are called "clutch release bearings, or concentrics". I don't know which is more popular, but know they're way more expensive than I would ever imagine. The dealer quoted me $250, so that won't be purchased any time soon. Wonder if there's a rebuild kit, if ever needed. Maybe some seals, and a bearing?
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Well... that's not really bad for clutch release bearing. I know of many cases where they're 2-3x that much.
If they're worn-out, no other choice but to replace them. However, at time of clutch-job, you can inspect and re-pack if still good. Usually what causes wear is factory grease dries out, then wear and destruction occurs quickly. Can usually catch them before this happens. These are typically ZZ bearings with double non-contact metal seals. Can't just pry off seals. To repack, I use press to separate bearing from hydraulic assembly. Then rinse in solvent bath to remove all old grease. Dry with heat-gun. Then use bearing-packer to fill with higher-quality than OEM grease such as Red Line CV-1 or Mobil synthetic grease (pink stuff). I've had bearings last over 300k-miles after this re-packing. |
Hey, thanks for the tip, Danno. Good to know, you can actually dis-assemble it to re-pac. Of course it' would've made too much sense for the engineers to put some type of Zerk fitting, to make it more convenient.
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