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So this is what the bearing looks like fresh outta the trans. Noticed some discoloration after I wiped it down with some brake cleaner but that might be due to applied hest in the removal process.
Heat on a bearing? Seems odd, but it’s off. Does it feel grindy or spin slower than normal? The output bearing on mine- I could feel the rough spin. Anyways, you are on the way to fix the issue. Good job!
Heat on a bearing? Seems odd, but it’s off. Does it feel grindy or spin slower than normal? The output bearing on mine- I could feel the rough spin. Anyways, you are on the way to fix the issue. Good job!
It wasn't smooth smooth as a bearing usually is, which I suppose would cause issues when it's whirring at 1000+ rooms. Now when I hit it with brake cleaner and spun it without any oil you could tell 100% something was off, it was a chattery mess that just sounded oh so bad ahha. Anyway update I got the new bearing ordered from the dealer (apparently only 4 in North America?). Coming in tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Another update ladies and gents. I got the bearing and snap ring in. I went ahead and paid a local shop $20 to take the old bearing off, used said old bearing to push the new bearing on, and added the snap bearing on top. Fun thing I dropped 6th gear and its synchros etc. off while doing it so I had to figure that out too. Now getting to putting it all back together, lets hope I did this right!
Alrighty, so everything back in and it's running great! No more supercharger sound! I'll be making a video in how I did it so make sure to find me on YouTube if you'd like some help out there, and hit me with a sub 😁
I knew you could be able to make it happen..
AND...So for those who don’t wanna spend 5k on a transmission rebuild/ replacement...some of us can and could help ya all out!! Like what Absolutely Ab can, just seek out and find help!
So my tC has been making the noise and I’m going to be dropping the trans and having the bearings replaced by a shop. Now the TSB from Toyota says to replace the rear bearing near the snap ring but while I’m in there is it worth it to replace the front bearing as well?
Or should I not worry about it. I know that involves taking all the gears off to get to it. I’ll also replace the clutch and throw out bearing while I’m in there.
So my tC has been making the noise and I’m going to be dropping the trans and having the bearings replaced by a shop. Now the TSB from Toyota says to replace the rear bearing near the snap ring but while I’m in there is it worth it to replace the front bearing as well?
Or should I not worry about it. I know that involves taking all the gears off to get to it. I’ll also replace the clutch and throw out bearing while I’m in there.
Okay I will! How did you go about replacing the snap rings and it also mentions shims and other bearings that should be replaced when reassembling the trans.
Okay I will! How did you go about replacing the snap rings and it also mentions shims and other bearings that should be replaced when reassembling the trans.
Used snap ring pliers, and re-ordered the same # on the rings I removed, it sounds silly that it is a non-reusable item just because you have to widened it to remove it... Well, you do that when installing the new one...Right? Shims are needed if there is extreme wear items, hence why you measure the distance between what is called out, which I had no difference. I installed new 3rd hub, synchros, snap rings and the front and rear bearings. Those needle bearings were fine.
Hi guys! I have a bad input shaft bearing too. Bought my car in 2013 from a garage that buys wrecked cars and rebuild to sell back. A local one with a good rep. I knew I wouldn't have any Toyota warranty on it but I thought my money was on a sure bet with a Toyota (lol).
Garage still offered a warranty on it. Mine was only cosmetic damage, i wouldn't have gone with undercarriage wrecks or ripped wheels or anything. Anyway, bought it at 8000 kms.
@ 12 000 km i noticed the noise in my garage, closed spaces were the only way you could hear it at that point. Didn't think much of it until i read online it was the input shaft bearing and you needed to open up the tranny to get it replaced.
Liked the car and decided to buy a winter beater to keep it away from Canadian winters and salt. The beater paid itself in a lil over a year due to insurance savings. (i was 19 at the time)
@40 000 kms I replaced the oil with royal purple syncromesh 75w90 it felt a lil better on the shifts at cold temps
@60 000 kms the bearing noise was noticeable at all times but not very annoying or anything, a non-car person wouldn't notice unless i point it out also the car refuses to shift at -25 to -30 ish degrees Celsius until it's warmed up 2-5 mins,
I don't know any other cars that do that. I didn't care too much i was only starting it in the winter to get the fluids going a bit, never drove it very far (only fresh snow if there was any, no salt)
@80 000 kms that supercharger though there's no hiding from it, getting paranoid over stares at the drive-thru, dunno if they like the car or wondering about the noise. The shifts are affected pretty noticeably too.
@104 000 kms last month on a road trip the bearing actually started to sound like soft intermittent engine knock. Yep it's at the eleventh hour for that bearing. Driving the beater around now until I finalize the swap (pics) and receive the transmission oil:
some Motul 300 LS, it's made for transaxle transmissions with an LSD inside. OS Giken recommends that type and a few other ones.
OS Giken LSD, ACT lightweight flywheel, ACT stage 1 pressure plate & clutch (350hp rated), Torque solutions front engine mount and MTEC Shifter spring
And this is the transmission that's going in:
2533 Canadian Pesos in parts, 3871 total
Bought it from a Toyota Tech that used to have a tC, super nice guy, he messaged me a few times to know about progress, I plan on letting him know how i feel about it once it's in. In case you didn't notice, that's a bill from Toyota,
I kept the header of the bill out of the shot to safe keep buddy's info. Part numbers are listed.
The diff still needs to go in, I'll get it done at a reputable shop and ask to inspect the internals as best as they can but i doubt they can verify much. No noise from that transmission just a bit of a hesitation from 1st to 2nd.
This thread really motivated me to attempt working on the internals if any other issues ever arise from the transmission. Initially I was just planning on selling the car if it didn't work out.
Here's a vid i shot in 2016 from right above the transmission, quite noisy when you're so close to it. Not so bad in the car.
So this is commonly referred to as the throwout bearing. In the short term it is probably fine to drive on it for a short amount of time, but the bearing is failing, and can come apart once its tolerances are pushed past a certain point. If it comes apart then ball bearings and potentially shards of metal can make their way inside the transmission and cause some serious damage. A new TOB should be supplied with a new clutch kit, what brand clutch did you go with that did not come with one? Every clutch I've installed came with a new bearing. If you're putting in another Toyota clutch, just grab the TOB from them as this only seemed to effect the 11-13's and the new part shouldn't carry the same issue. It's just one of those things tho, not much you can do about it if it happens again other than to swap it out and alter your driving habits if it is repeatedly happening (don't rest your foot on the clutch, don't excessively ride the clutch, etc).
this just happened to me now i need a new bearing i guest i dont know what the part name is one of my friends said it name the fifth gear bearing i think but ***** are all can you guys help me
this just happened to me now i need a new bearing i guest i dont know what the part name is one of my friends said it name the fifth gear bearing i think but ***** are all can you guys help me
If you're having trouble only going into one gear then chances are you need a new synchro for that gear (which requires taking he transmission apart to access). It can also grind going into gears if you are using incorrect or old/burnt fluid. The proper fluid for the tC's MTX transmission is Toyota MT-LV 75W and it should be changed every 30-60k miles depending on driving habits and climate. The OEM fluid is hard to find in the states though, I recommend putting in Redline MT-LV as it is designed specifically as a replacement to the low viscosity OEM fluid. I have it and it is immensely better than the OEM fluid in every way.
this just happened to me now i need a new bearing i guest i dont know what the part name is one of my friends said it name the fifth gear bearing i think but ***** are all can you guys help me
You have to make sure it's the throwout bearing or the input shaft bearing. One is on the clutch the other is in the transmission. If the noise starts when you push the clutch in, thats the throw out bearing. If the noise is constant and disappears once you push the clutch in, that's an input shaft bearing. If the noise just started you're good to drive on it for a bit but you'll have work to be done. Throw out bearing is easier since you only need a clutch job. Input shaft there needs work to be done inside the transmission which is a bigger job.
So I just had my clutch replaced on my 2016 at 50k miles with an ACT heavy duty street disc and immediately after I got the car back I noticed this noise. Right now its only really noticeable when there is no other noise around ( Nobody else can ever hear it when I try to point it out, but I'm just constantly listening for the first thing to break ) Anyway I'm just trying to get an estimate as to what I'm looking at to get this bearing replaced? I'm slightly mechanically inclined myself but have a fear of doing major things like this with my only car
So I just had my clutch replaced on my 2016 at 50k miles with an ACT heavy duty street disc and immediately after I got the car back I noticed this noise. Right now its only really noticeable when there is no other noise around ( Nobody else can ever hear it when I try to point it out, but I'm just constantly listening for the first thing to break ) Anyway I'm just trying to get an estimate as to what I'm looking at to get this bearing replaced? I'm slightly mechanically inclined myself but have a fear of doing major things like this with my only car
If you go to a dealership it'll probably be over $1k for sure but like a transmission shop could be around $500, I always had a big fear of others working on my car so I did it myself but luckily had a second car but it wasn't that hard. It was my first time doing something like this but there's videos online and they show you what tools you need to get.
The EB60 has multiple factory issues
- Input shaft bearing
- Rear Input shaft bearing
For the input shaft bearing if you want to diagnose,
a worn bearing makes noises (rattle,growling) on idle when in neutral with the clutch pedal not pressed if the sound goes away when you engage the clutch it is the problem.
They usually tend to last between 60k and 100k km's. When it starts it will sound quiet and get worst depending on absolute randomness. don't forget it can blow up and trash your tranny in under 1000 kilometers but it can sustain for 5k 10k who knows just rely on if it gets worst? it's gambling. You shouldn't be alarmed if it whistles when cold -10 to -30 just wait for it to stop making the sound and then you can go. EB60 has made it so thick oil has a harder time to get to this special bearing 😉
Rear input shaft bearing
The famous supercharger noise primarly on the first gear but will continue on the second gear and so forth, to be honest with you I wouldn't change it at all if it wasn't for the input shaft but tell your mechanic to change it as well during the operation because the damn bearing is like under 100$ and the tranny will move more smoothly but I haven't looked at the issue more profoundely so this is at the best of my knowledge
Mainshaft?
Bad bearings can always do harm to the mainshaft so make sure to tell your mechanic to do some tests, because if the mainshaft is warped or something like that putting new bearings in will do absolutely nothing and they will do the same thing they did under a thousand km's.
You should take some of your time to sue toyota for this issue, many people sued for this issue and got their money back, we might be able to make them pay at the end for the problems they make us repair. Warranty or no warranty this is absolutely unacceptable and they should pay their errors this is in no way normal wear. Thanks and good luck!
In the above photos of the gearsets, they show the input shaft, and output shaft assemblies side by side, as they are situated in the tranny case. Are they connected in the photos, by some mystical means, or can they both be separated easily, on the bench?
People in this thread, (including the OP) are calling out the bearing under the snap ring, the "input shaft" bearing. No-one is showing the frt bearing, on the splined end that goes through the clutch. There are 2 input shaft bearings, the frt and rear. The easy one to access is the rear bearing, and don't believe this is the culprit to cause everyone problems. The bearing on the splined end is the frt bearing, and believe is the one wearing prematurely.
In the above photos of the gearsets, they show the input shaft, and output shaft assemblies side by side, as they are situated in the tranny case. Are they connected in the photos, by some mystical means, or can they both be separated easily, on the bench?
People in this thread, (including the OP) are calling out the bearing under the snap ring, the "input shaft" bearing. No-one is showing the frt bearing, on the splined end that goes through the clutch. There are 2 input shaft bearings, the frt and rear. The easy one to access is the rear bearing, and don't believe this is the culprit to cause everyone problems. The bearing on the splined end is the frt bearing, and believe is the one wearing prematurely.
On my picture with the gear sets together the input shaft as you can see is splined to the flywheel/engine.. (on the left side)..and the front bearing..right after the spline..it’s pressed on as are the other gear speeds, the rear bearing is snap ringed in place and seats/ placed on the other case half. You remove from rear to front to only have a naked input shaft. You have to press these off..I want to mention both input shaft bearings are culprits, and also this transmission isn’t stout enough on hi rev shifts, and oil sling isn’t either the best.
Good hearing from you Mike. You mentioned the removal of the input shaft bearings starts with the dis-assy of the rear bearing 1st. Can the frt bearing be pressed off the other end, by itself, or do you have-ta destack the entire shaft, to get to it? Wondering if there's a snap-ring holding it in place, like the rear, or is there a step machined into the shaft to prevent fwd removal? Thanks again for your reply.
03-15-2019, 07:14 PM
there's no hiding from it, getting paranoid over stares at the drive-thru, dunno if they like the car or wondering about the noise. The shifts are affected pretty noticeably too.
