FreedomPenguin

I forgot about getting it repaired before my 100k mile warranty ran out, I know there's a TSB on it, but that expires 60k or at end of 100k warranty extended. So I am at 170k miles, it drives great, nothing is out of line other than the whirring is loud and I kinda would like to fix it. If its a throw out bearing, that would be sweet, because it can be repaired with a clutch job. but if its the input shaft on transmission that is costly as hell and would rather just drive it.

I made a little video, sorry if it isn't the best. let me know what you guys think it is, I am going to be doing a gear lube swap this week, ordered amsoil 75w-90 manual gear lube, figure its worth a shot, maybe it'll lubricate up into the noisy areas and cut the noise down. I honestly think I had the dealership change fluids at 100k drain and fill, but its possible they didn't fill it all the way or even do it. so it could be low on fluid, and or original fluid.. ive never changed the fluid once. but that will change this week.

This is what I am tossing in.

MikelMykelz

Check the level, but if it’s low the gears will still slop up fluid on the inner components. The noise louder at first and kinda goes down some=It’s the input shaft bearings. I did this whole thing-(CSC, clutch, flywheel and new front and rear bearings. Also..3rd synchro rings and both hubs (kept popping out of gear)—and now have the bearing whine/slight sound as well. Seems like the nature of the game!

drizzoh

That's not the correct fluid for the MTX in these cars. It's too thick and they require low viscosity fluid - can be grindy once the transmission heats up. The best aftermarket option is Redline MT-LV.

Generally, if the noise happens when you press on the clutch pedal it's the input shaft bearing - a known issue on the 11-13's.

FreedomPenguin

The noise is completely gone when the clutch is pushed in, eliminated, quiet. when I release it (in gear) I have a whine when accelerating. clarification. I am not sure my current gear level, but Toyota today told its 75w but they said, 75w-90 will work fine in the car.
I have had Redline stuff in other vehicles and not a real big fan. I am am assuming the Amsoil will ship today, and I can try it, full drain and refill and go from there. if I was accelerating and held foot on gas, and then pushed clutch in, it would be completely gone, the noise.

If it sucks, I can toss OEM back in. 40 bucks, no real loss in trying. the fact that it drives so damn good, no notch, perfectly smooth, never had a single mis-shift, or it kicking out of gear doesn't really have me worried. when I'm cruising, there is some noise,
but at 65mph, in 6th, seems to be much lower audibly. I play music, etc.

But I just tossed a new muffler on my Scion Lol. I took it off my Mustang and put it on the Scion and would like to hear it, but its so loud that when I'm accelerating, its hard to even hear my little axle back. disappointing.

Do any of this sound like a possibly throw out bearing? I don't think so, since I thought TOB is only when you push clutch in, then it would make noise, opposite of what I have, when I push clutch in, I have no noise.

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drizzoh

Sounds like it could be TOB then.

And yes, its a 75w80 to be exact. IDK what Toyota dealer you go to but mine told me it couldn't get the fluid except special order from Japan, at over $80/qt so I did research and found the Redline MT-LV that works with this. I, too, have not loved it in other vehicles but it works much better than the factory fluid in this application.

FreedomPenguin

Appreciate the info! Just got email, Amsoil, shipped today, and arrives tomorrow. I will try it, test it, drain it if I don't like it. My Scion is a Winter only car,
maybe a couple times in Summer for hauling stuff, but it's a Winter car only. My Mustang is my Summer daily. I just been having it out tinkering/fixing up stuff.

Never ceases to amaze me how I get Amazon speed on oil. 15 a quart for https://www.amsoil.com/p/manual-tran...be-75w-90-mtg/
(preferred customer pricing)

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drizzoh

Should change the tranny fluid every 30k, so if it's been longer than that I'm sure you'll notice a difference. Just might get a little grindy if it gets hot enough when going into gear.

75w90 is what the 1G's took, but all the fluids on the tC2 are low viscosity so we need slightly faster flowing fluids to be 'optimized'. Hopefully it works out.

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FreedomPenguin

You know what. I guess I had my manual drained and refilled at 100k mile mark. They told me that today, but I asked if they stock the fluid, they said no.

I think they put 75w-90 in my transmission? I've been Googling and it appears this is common. I think they charged me 60 bucks for the transmission refill service, after you told me the price of the fluid,
there's no way they put 2.5 quarts of Toyota 75w that cost $55 a quart in my car for 60 bucks. Going to call tomorrow and clarify exactly what fluid they used for the service.

The Amsoil stuff shipped, from Columbus. No wonder I get it next day, its an hour away from me.

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MileHightC

I'm going to say it's your throw out bearing also...if it goes away when you push the clutch in and there's a 'whine' when it's out I'd be willing to put money on that being the cause.

MikelMykelz

A release bearing or the TOB holds against the pressure plate diaphragm springs when applied..

If you hear a noise while clutch is not engaged the input shaft is spinning on its bearings. You hear a noise when the clutch is engaged the TOB is making the noise. Because the input shaft is not spinning...

I know this is basic but some keep thinking it’s opposite.

joeq

I know this is an older thread, but I know people will be reading this, for their own benefit, (like me), and it's frustrating when there is no follow up. Maybe the OP has parked the car, and has no news...but still.

1st off, he's wondering why the noise isn't coming from his shifter boot, if it was the transmission. He even states it's coming from in frt of him. The transmission "is" in frt, and not on the shifter. The shifter has a cable running fwd to the tranny.

2nd, MikelM above has hit the nail on the head. Many of the responses call out the TOB, which is wrong, cause the OP clearly states the noise goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I believe the modern hyd. TOB are called "concentrics" and are pretty expensive, compared to older TOB. In older times, the TOB "didn't" ride on the clutch (pressure plate) fingers, but had clearance. Now-a-days, the concentric, (for some God forsaken reason) rides on the fingers 100% of the time. If the noise goes away, when the TOB/concentic is engaged, (clutch pedal pushed in) that's when it has it's highest load/pressure, and if the TOB bearing was bad, it would growl. The TOB/concentric, (altho bolted to the tranny), is more clutch related, and not internal to the transmission.

When the clutch is let out, it engages the eng. and connects the transmission input shaft, which in turn spins its bearings and gears, "even" when in neutral. My daughters 6 speed will make this noise then, and it will climb with eng. RPMs. Just like it does when driving, and shifting thru the gears, and sounds like the OPs.

So, to sum it up, and clarify,
1- If the noise goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed...it's "NOT" the TOB/concentric.
2-If the clutch is released, (not pushing on the pedal) and the noise is present, then it is the transmission, (input shaft side.)
3-If the noise only happens when the car is moving, (and it's transmission related), it would be the out-put shaft side.

Hope this helps, and if anything above is in question, or flat out wrong, I would like to hear. Thanks.

FreedomPenguin

Sorry guys, ive been driving it, it drives just fine, but the whirling is so bad. you can hear me down road. when I spoke to Toyota few months ago, he said we can do this. 1. Buy a new transmission, (2500) and then since its out, they would do clutch while its out, no labor on that, just parts. since I guess its the same labor. he said 2500+labor+clutch parts, I would be around 4500 or so.

but, since the transmission drives perfectly, just noisy. I think everything inside of it is fine. I am going to go tomorrow and ask, Cost of Pulling tranny, replacing FRONT + BACK input shaft, and doing clutch while its out, the same deal they told me before. If I can be around 2k-2.5 OTD. for clutch+new input shafts, then I think I will do it on the spot.

does this seem reasonable? what realistic pricing should I actually expect, anyone know the hours I should be guesstimating to help me factor cost? I have 175k on my current clutch, and it still does not slip. so im getting OEM, no doubt about it. I love it. I just worry them messing up my clutch. what do they replace when I get a full clutch job? clutch cylinders etc? I dont want them to miss anything that should be changed while its out. I want this to last another 200k / 9 years again.

doing it now because this is my winter car, and winter will be here soon.


I am hoping less than 2,500 for full fix. new clutch, and transmission input shafts. 2k would be AWESOME. but im expecting 2500 or so. going to try and get 10% off the labor, since they toss those coupons every other month. It isn't going now but I think I can get it.

joeq

LOL. $2500, for tranny , new clutch, and labor? Didn't they already quote you $4500? Good luck trying to cut that in 1/2. Better look for another winter beater, as your tranny is short of grenading. .How long will it last, as the noise gets worse? "Only the Shadow knows".

FreedomPenguin

no. I’m saying, if I keep my tranny and simply have them swap the input shalf bearings on it,

so clutch + input shaft bearings. It shouldn’t cost too much to swap bearings on it when it’s out?

worst case new trans. I don’t see why it wouldn’t cost anymore than a few hundred to change the shaft bearings on my current trans. It drives and shifts beautifully, no grinding nothing. Just sounds like a supercharger on roids

4500 is BRAND NEW transmission. That’s 2500 bucks alone.

FreedomPenguin

They told me 2000 or so for just a clutch and labor, but they said if I get a new trans. They won’t charge me labor for clutch, just parts, since the labor is same for both trans and clutch.


so I need a clutch either way.

2000 for clutch alone due to parts labor

4500sh for clutch and brand new transmission

or let’s say 2000 clutch job + input shaft replacement in my current trans while out.

joeq

I'm going thru this brg change as we speak. I had to weigh my options, like you are doing now. Toyota quoted me $3K for a new tranny, (Over the counter...not installed. EB60-which is a 6 speed manual.) You haven't mentioned your application, and I' m not sure the differences. But the cost to rebuild your whinning tranny, I'll bet would almost be the cost of a new one. Once inside, they will find other parts needing replacement, such as syncos, out-put shaft brgs, seals, shims, snap rings, gear oil, and who knows what else. Remember, the tranny shops are not your friend, and have to make $ too. They may tell you they're giving you "free" labor, when in fact they are marking up other items 200%. Nothing is free.

Now, if you had a friend who was a mechanic, who owed you a favor, and would do what you want....for say the price of an Olive Garden meal, then maybe you'ld be alright. But he would have-ta be a "VERY" good friend, to go through this. When all is said and done, I'll have about 36 hrs invested in what you are wishing for, and a few hundred bucks in parts. Tranny rebuilds are "almost" as much as an engine rebuild, and maybe as much as a new paint job these days.

And of course, you have another option. You could tackle it yourself. Just jump over to my thread on this, and you'll see what's involved. I haven't posted any real details yet, but will in the future. Good luck with your decision.

FreedomPenguin

All clutch parts, fluid and brand new trans and a few wear parts like rear main seal priced out to 3450. Then 12.5 labor @ 125 an hour. Comes to 5450 or so including tax.

I asked if there’s anyway to get to 4500-5k otd. He looked up service history and saw my car has been there for everything from 20k to 175k he is asking his service manager.

5k otd is what I’m hoping for, any less would be cream on top.

but yeah. There’s 7 brand new trans in USA left for our cars. My 11-13 was superseded by the new trans that’s in 14+ they must of changed whatever failure that was happening

i cannot recall reading any 14+ having the same input shaft bearing noise, anyone care to chime in?

mastee tech said if it was his, he would replace. Once they break it open they’re oing to be broken parts and can add up to new trans cost.

I am getting the 99 service diagnoses (goes towards repair) though. To let them check it out before anything’s done.

FreedomPenguin

Here is the part list, then add another 12.5 hours of labor @ 125. then tax of 7.5% on top of everything. $5,370 with my math.

I asked if its possible to be 5K OTD all out. we will see what the word is.

FreedomPenguin

I tried to be smart, I applied for a credit card, Citi Premiere, offering 80,000 bonus points if you spend 4k in 3 months. Got approved for 7,500 limit. Boom.
Going to use it to pay for my car repair, then collect 800 in Apple Gift cards, pays for my next phone or computer. Kinda a savings.

Just sucks, I was really hoping it would be a cheaper repair than 5k.

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joeq

I hear ya. It does suck, for the prices being charged these days. But then again, we make more money now-a-days, than we did in the past, so it all evens out. The labor is intensive, and the shops have their own financial concerns also. Rents, utilities, insurances, employees, and other over-head charges, all add up, and must be taken into consideration. What gets me, is the price of the materials, and parts. They're made of cheese compared to older materials, yet we don't benefit in those savings. Probably the only place they make their profits. Remember, that's what they're in business for...profits. Otherwise they wouldn't have any investors. And jobs such as eng. changes, or tranny repairs probably don't come along as often as they would like. Do they make as much profits on them, or more with the multitude of tires, brakes, and exhaust system work? IDK.

So anyway, our cars are nothing more than transportation. A "necessary" requirement these day. So whether we use them for that, or put a little more pizzazz into them, to make them fun, we sometimes have to pay the piper. Hopefully less often than it could be. Good luck getting a break on your quote.