errol

I think they changed it like 2 years ago not sure. Nice 671 Rep!

Thanks par, my kind of springs lol, naw man its cut springs

Bloodborn

Do you have a pic of the other side of the reverse light? I stopped the dealer when I bought mine, he even took it into the garage and his mechanic was ready to change the bulb out lol.

errol

These are the only pics i got for the second reverse light

WellesleyScion

Hows it ride compared to stock?

errol

Super smooth bro, gonna cut a little bit more.

donsun

isn't it easier to bottom out or rub with cut springs since the travel distance is shorter but the spring rate hasn't changed?

2tCornot2tC

You cut a spring, the spring rate goes up! The more you cut off, the greater the increase in spring rate. Engineering 101 guys.

donsun

am I missing something? Aren't spring rates constant? unless the stock springs on the tC are progressive, in which case I was wrong earlier.

2tCornot2tC

This time you are right...you are missing something...an engineering education. But that was your choice. But if we were all engineers, this would be a miserable place to be.

Take a look at a spring…if you are an engineer or very observant, you might notice that the front springs vary in diameter. They are smaller in diameter at the top and the bottom and larger in diameter in the middle. By varying the diameter, you varying spring rates. Another way of varying the spring rate is to vary the pitch of the spring. Now look at the rear springs. The coils look like they are bunched up at one end…usually the top. That is the other way. A third way is to vary the diameter of the spring wire…but that is very hard to do in a production environment…and not worth it.

donsun

lol thanks... 2nd year Mechanical Engineering at Georgia Tech not good enough for you?

I never looked at the springs before and never have looked at any springs on a car before for that matter since the tC is my first car. You could have just answered the question by telling me that the springs have a progressive spring rate... thanks for the info.

2tCornot2tC

I tend to be a PITA (I've been told this - not once)...I was hoping that you didn't have such a thin hide. Don't take it personally...

I know a lot about suspension systems. I've designed and built an F1 car...and had the entrance fee paid to start at the Long Beach race (look up when that was held and you'll get an idea of my age)...back when the host country was allowed "wild card" entries, provided you qualified. The driver didn't have the money to start the race...Oh well...I'm a has been! But that is the level of knowledge I have about suspension systems. I get tired of people giving bad information on the internet and so I try to educate them...but they continue to argue their misconception...I usually give up... but this one was simple enough to jump in...again...there is a thread about shocks (I don't recall if it's this one or another) that is wrong too...but to explain that one would require an engineering education to understand...so I din't even bother with that one.

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

Your later post clarifies what you mean, but this particular post isn't necessarily true. You make 3 assumptions. First, that the tC spring is progressive (it is, but you wouldn't know unless you've looked). Second, that errol is cutting the softer, center of the spring (He hasn't had to buy new springs, so it's a safe bet he did). Third, it's not the more you cut, it's the more you cut of the right part of the spring. Cut too much and you destroy the spring.

You're the 30 lbs brain that designs this stuff and, like most engineers, forget not everyone has your education and experience. I'm the guy who has to figure out what an engineer really means and translate it so our technicians, who often barely graduated high school, can understand and reproduce it.

I have no doubt you are much smarter than me on this, but it seems cutting springs would greatly reduce the reliability and lifespan of the springs...

P.S. I'm a Spanish Major.

2tCornot2tC

No...cutting off the end of the spring has no effect of the life of the spring. Now cutting into it is a different story...that could destroy it...depending on where you nick or cut into it.

Now that the spring is stiffer (because it is cut shorter), it will change the effectiveness of the shock absorber to the point that it could be useless or be under much greater load to fail sooner. The explanation is more that I would want to delve into right now...

donsun

lol, kinda new to this forum so wasn't sure how to react.. all is well then.
seems like you're pretty knowledgeable about most things in the automotive field. if i have a question i'll be sure to direct em to you ;P

2tCornot2tC

Hey, hey, hey...let's not get carried away here! I can't possibly know everything!

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

I think think this thread is sufficiently jacked.

Sorry errol. It's still a nice ride!

WellesleyScion

Ok, so theoretically I could cut a coil off the top of my S-techs to go a little lower and it would stiffen the ride, not make it bouncier? (CS major over here, LOL)

2tCornot2tC

Correct...but!!! the spring seat will not be clocked properly. I have not looked at it close enough yet to tell you if you could put an eccessive lateral load on the sock tower ball joint...you could put a lateral load on the suspension components if you do that. There have been reports here that that has been happening with the TRD springs that are not installed properly.

Wrong! The shock absorber is designed to the spring rate and the weight applied (mass on the corner of the car). The only reason aftermarket shocks have adjustable damping, is to select the correct damping for the spring rate installed...1 shock, lots of springs...cheaper also.

Just take a look at a low-rider...they cut so much out of the spring (to lower it) that the suspension is so stiff that the shock can't handle it any more...therefore it bounces! The handling characteristics are not nearly as good as they could be if you adjust the damping to attain the ride you want/need. This is the backyard way and not the go fast way. If all you are after is..."All show and no go", then cut away...but you will sacrifice ride quality and cornering performance. I personally don't care about show...I will sacrifice looks for performance any day!

2tCornot2tC

Another problem with cutting springs is that the end of a spring is "closed" when it is manufactured. That makes is flat on the end to distribute the load on the spring to the "pillow" (rubber seat) to the chassis. If you cut the end of the spring, then the there is no more "flat" to distribute the load. The low-rider guys, torch the spring and let it collapse on itself, but that destroys the temper (springiness) of the spring...it will fail there. Don't cut the spring...buy what you need/want.

errol

Leche guys too much info about spring rates.

I cut the stock springs on the bottom instead of the top.

I havent bottomed out or rub..yet but since im going a little bit lower we'll soon find out, but i doubt that i'll rub or bottom out since its really not that slammed. I still have a lot of clearance left.

since i took out the bump stop the ride isnt bouncy at all, super smooth just needa watch out for the bumps & potholes haha.