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Old 06-06-2018, 06:31 PM
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Default tC RS7.0 questions

Going to buy a 2012 RS 7.0 and want to know of some signs I should look out for in a bad Scion I already have one to view and it has 83k miles and looks pretty mint in the pics
but I don't know what I should check out other then oil, coolant, leaks, engine noise and just ____ty repair on it but I don't know how to check for more serious stuff or things that go unnoticed so any warnings?

Also how would I install a backup camera on it? would I need to replace the head unit and use that since the RS7.0 one is different then stock? If the car has more then one 12v outlet I would just buy one that has a separate monitor screen.

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Old 06-07-2018, 04:29 PM
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The RS series isn't really any different mechanical-wise than a normal tC. They mostly just come with TRD springs and slightly different styling/muffler. The 2G tC is pretty reliable, if it looks/feels good it probably is. It's a Toyota after all.

If the one you're looking had has a touch screen as the headunit, it should accept a backup cam. If not, then you'll need to replace it or come up with a different option for a screen. My 2014 came with a touch screen stock and I was able to plug a cam right into it, just make sure if it's OEM that the camera has an OEM harness option so it fits. If it's aftermarket, a generic camera will fit. Pretty basic there. Car only has one 12v outlet under the radio. Easy to tap into if needed, the hardest part of the backup cam install is running the wires.. and even that's not hard if you take your time. There's a DIY for it on here - BackUp Camera Install tC2 Alpine HU

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Old 06-07-2018, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by drizzoh View Post
The RS series isn't really any different mechanical-wise than a normal tC. They mostly just come with TRD springs and slightly different styling/muffler. The 2G tC is pretty reliable, if it looks/feels good it probably is. It's a Toyota after all.

If the one you're looking had has a touch screen as the head unit, it should accept a backup cam. If not, then you'll need to replace it or come up with a different option for a screen. My 2014 came with a touch screen stock and I was able to plug a cam right into it, just make sure if it's OEM that the camera has an OEM harness option so it fits. If it's aftermarket, a generic camera will fit. Pretty basic there. Car only has one 12v outlet under the radio. Easy to tap into if needed, the hardest part of the backup cam install is running the wires.. and even that's not hard if you take your time. There's a DIY for it on here - BackUp Camera Install tC2 Alpine HU
Oh really? ____ mine has the Stabilizer bar, Intake, and the TRD exhaust which I thought all already came with the RS series but I looked it up and I was wrong I know the TRD exhaust is def aftermarket since the 7.0 I seen videos of never had that as stock. But at least my car is a
bit modded out I test drove it yesterday and bought it on spot getting it today :D. It sounds amazing way better in person and drives well all the mounts and stuff checked out and it even got neon lights (LED Glow) so its super sick. But checking the VIN this morning I seen the Copart
listing for it before it got rebuilt and it wasn't pretty not the worst I seen but still nasty but I have hopes for it. I had a 2011 2G before and it was amazing I loved that car and the reliability it had was, sad when I had to give it up for my V6 Stang.

Pic of my Stereo

And sadly no it's a Pioneer unit one special for the RS7.0 has no touchscreen capabilities just Bluetooth I would have to replace it but it seems that the space for the radio is small then the base tC with a head unit so it may need modifications for that but for now f that I'm just
gonna do that when the times right.

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Old 06-07-2018, 10:13 PM
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Oh yeah it's one of the gross headunits lol. Can drop in an aftermarket touch screen with a dash kit or OEM 14+ headunit easily.

Congrats on the purchase. Strut bar might be stock on an RS, never looked into it much. For 14+ the RS looks tacky to me, 2013 RS is solid though, love the lip kit.
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Old 06-08-2018, 02:59 AM
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Thanks dude I'm so happy I drove it to campus today right after buying it and the drive was just amazing sound is so good almost like my friends stock Infiniti exhaust and it feels stable so I'm really digging it I got to just watch how I drive cause I can already see it driving it like
I stole it and that's something I want to stop. and I honestly don't know where the stabilizer bar is located it has a TRD bar attached to the body right under the hood and over the exhaust so is that it? And what are some good shoes for it that are sticky and help a lot with cornering?
I got ContiProContact Continental (don't know specific part #) and they feel really nice and sticky but I would something better if these aren't really good tires since I don't know much about them.

And honestly hearing the unit I kinda don't want to get rid of it and possibly lose that sound I would have to find a good unit within $200-300 to replace it with that wouldn't lose out in the BT or sound cause Jesus man I was surprised by how loud these were and the Pioneer unit
just makes it so much better.


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Old 06-08-2018, 03:41 PM
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Changing the headunit will 99.9999% of the time improve sound quality, and it damn sure will on a tC. The stock headunit is fairly awful and cuts off a lot of frequencies that would be heard by an aftermarket unit, not to mention only puts out 11-14w. It's a very good upgrade to swap them out if you like your sound. I opted to keep mine as I just can't get rid of a factory touch screen and I dropped in amps and new speakers that I could tune when I overhauled my audio. Had I had a non-touch radio it would have been one of the first things to go.

Anyways, yeah that is a strut tower bar. It's TRD but I can't say if it's part of the RS or not. Probably not coz Toyota likes to nickel and dime you for anything that says TRD on it. Looks like an Injen SRI and possibly a header as well.

It's missing a battery tie-down so you might want to look into picking one up if there's nothing else securing that battery from sliding.

For tires it really depends where you live, what your driving needs are and how much traction you're trying to realistically get out of a tC. It's not a race car. Tires can definitely help if you're running hard stockers or yours are just old, but some suspension upgrades will likely make a more bigger impact. Tein S-Tech springs handle better and ride smoother than the TRD's that would have come on the RS. Coilovers are another great option for improving handling and ride, just more expensive. There is also a mid-chassis body brace made by TB Performance that helps with cornering a noticeable amount. The strut bar you have won't make a big difference for handling since the strut towers are against the firewall (basically a huuuuge brace) and they have a stock brace already that's hidden under the cowling.

I had my previous car (Mazda6 setup for autocross and HPDE events) outfitted with sway bars, coilovers, every body brace, super wide tires, etc, and the tC basically stock with upgraded tires (Hankook V12's) and S-Techs corners a lot tighter due to its lighter weight and turning radius.

Mods are great, but will really depend on what you want to get out of the car. I/we can recommend parts to you all day, but in the end you gotta mod for what suits you best.
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Old 06-08-2018, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by drizzoh View Post
Changing the headunit will 99.9999% of the time improve sound quality, and it damn sure will on a tC. The stock headunit is fairly awful and cuts off a lot of frequencies that would be heard by an aftermarket unit, not to mention only puts out 11-14w. It's a very good upgrade to swap them out if you like your sound. I opted to keep mine as I just can't get rid of a factory touch screen and I dropped in amps and new speakers that I could tune when I overhauled my audio. Had I had a non-touch radio it would have been one of the first things to go.

Anyways, yeah that is a Strut Tower bar. It's TRD but I can't say if it's part of the RS or not. Probably not coz Toyota likes to nickel and dime you for anything that says TRD on it. Looks like an Injen SRI and possibly a header as well.

It's missing a battery tie-down so you might want to look into picking one up if there's nothing else securing that battery from sliding.

For tires it really depends where you live, what your driving needs are and how much traction you're trying to realistically get out of a tC. It's not a race car. Tires can definitely help if you're running hard stockers or yours are just old, but some suspension upgrades will likely make a more bigger impact. Tein S-Tech springs handle better and ride smoother than the TRD's that would have come on the RS. Coilovers are another great option for improving handling and ride, just more expensive. There is also a mid-chassis body brace made by TB Performance that helps with cornering a noticeable amount. The strut bar you have won't make a big difference for handling since the strut towers are against the firewall (basically a huuuuge brace) and they have a stock brace already that's hidden under the cowling.

I had my previous car (Mazda6 setup for autocross and HPDE events) outfitted with sway bars, coilovers, every body brace, super wide tires, etc, and the tC basically stock with upgraded tires (Hankook V12's) and S-Techs corners a lot tighter due to its lighter weight and turning radius.

Mods are great, but will really depend on what you want to get out of the car. I/we can recommend parts to you all day, but in the end you gotta mod for what suits you best.
I was going to order one from DHgate/aliexpress thats why I thought it would still be worse then the stock. So I'm def going to start looking up my options and see I want a Android head unit that has 7.0 so I'm hoping ones easy to find.

I checked and the Strut isn't stock was an aftermarket mod prob bought with the TRD exhaust too and I have the battery tie down but no screws for it the person I bought it from left it in the trunk so u know what screws I would need to secure it?

And damn I was super hyped for the Strut Bar being a good big boost to the suspension but oh well I'm just gonna paint it yellow so it matches the car color. I was looking and feel I'm going to spend money on my suspension I'm gonna want to get some
mid to high range gear. So I'm going to look at coilovers any good recommendations? and that mid chassis brace is something I'm def buying next month now that and the torque bar they sell seems like it would be useful.

And mainly since I know tC cant get much from engine mods unless you just drop a turbo in it but that's just too much now I want ti make this a handling monster and exterior mods to make the car just look sexy.

I also want to change my **** on a automatic so do you know the thread size for it?

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Old 06-08-2018, 08:37 PM
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No idea what thread the ATX shifter is, I haven't owned an ATX in over a decade lol.

For the tie down bolt it should just be a basic 10mm m6 bolt that goes into the frame bar. The rear has a big J-hook piece with a free spinning nut on top.

For audio, I'd try to stick with brands you've heard of as the usually have more refined features and integrate easier. And just in case you get any amps later on, you'll be happier you picked something with that has at least 4V preouts.

I'm a biggggg fan of Tein suspension, so I'd recommend anything they make for coilovers, just don't go too low or you start to lose handling. BC, Tanabe, HKS, KW, etc, are all great brands as well, just stay away from those piece of crap Racelands. Eibach makes a sway bar kit for the car, too. I threw sways on my last car and they completely changed its handling. Felt like it was on rails, but they ruined the ride quality so not planning to throw those on this car, and personally I don't think the tC needs them anyway. If you do lower any further than the TRD springs you should also look into swapping in some adjustable rear control arms, as the factory camber is non-adjustable. On my S-techs (-1.8" advertised drop), I was sitting over -3 degrees back there, the SPC arms allowed me to get back to spec.
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:12 AM
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seems like im running into trouble already my car negative terminal always had an exposed copper wire line connected to it and i thought that was the line to the car for the negative terminal but yesterday trying to fix my negative terminal coming out cause its loose the wires ripped from the terminal now my car wont start. the negative termanal is still connected to ground from another wire thats connected straight to the cars body. which makes me think that the wire that came off was the original ground location since its connected to the engine in a certain spot. so what should I do in this situation buy another negative battery post or try to repair the one I have? I did have it working for bit by wrapping said wire in electrical tape directly onto the negative post but for some reason that isnt working anymore so hopefully that isnt a bad sign..

pictures and video below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbic...ature=youtu.be
https://imgur.com/a/1j8T00a
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:09 PM
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There's no way to know from here what that other wire is. The car only has one ground cable stock though, so it's definitely not a factory ground wire. Try to follow that wire back and see where it goes. Maybe check the positive terminal & its sub-connections and see if anything is missing from there instead.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by drizzoh View Post
There's no way to know from here what that other wire is. The car only has one ground cable stock though, so it's definitely not a factory ground wire. Try to follow that wire back and see where it goes. Maybe check the positive terminal & its sub-connections and see if anything is missing from there instead.
At first I didn't know what I was either but alright let me try to explain the negative battery terminal cable instead of being directly connected to the engine block is connected to the body instead. the wire that was ripped off was the ground that connected to the engine so in the video the cable with the exposed wire is the ground cable that was connected to the engine. I tried replacing the ground cable with a 4ga switch to starter but that didn't work because from what I read you need a 2ga cable to run from the cars engine to the negative terminal and the car still only just turns on the lights but no start I want to try and replace the negative terminal and reroute it but I cant cause I cant find the right bolt type to take off whatever bolt they put in it. So my only option to possibly see this work is getting a 2ga switch to starter and running it to the negative terminal and see if that will allow it to work. do you know anywhere I can find something like that
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Old 07-02-2018, 04:23 PM
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The ground cable off the negative terminal is supposed to be connected to the body... And it is in those photos. I don't think that wire is anything you need to worry about realistically. If it was connected to the negative terminal then it's not OEM and it's just an additional ground that was (badly) added by the previous owner. Toyota wouldn't put electrical tape like that on a vital component like a ground wire. The previous owner probably grounded the throttle body or something like that. You have any car friends you could call locally to help you take a look at this? I don't want you to end up frying something that could have been avoided. Sounds to me like the battery could have just died and the ground wire is just a coincidence in this scenario.

EDIT:
This is how my bay looks as of this morning.. and there's no ground wire that you speak of. Definitely added by the previous owner (and I swapped my battery out friday).

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Old 07-02-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Voidlyfe View Post
Thanks dude I'm so happy I drove it to campus today right after buying it and the drive was just amazing sound is so good almost like my friends stock Infiniti exhaust and it feels stable so I'm really digging it I got to just watch how I drive cause I can already see it driving it like
I stole it and that's something I want to stop. and I honestly don't know where the stabilizer bar is located it has a TRD bar attached to the body right under the hood and over the exhaust so is that it? And what are some good shoes for it that are sticky and help a lot with cornering?
I got ContiProContact Continental (don't know specific part #) and they feel really nice and sticky but I would something better if these aren't really good tires since I don't know much about them.

And honestly hearing the unit I kinda don't want to get rid of it and possibly lose that sound I would have to find a good unit within $200-300 to replace it with that wouldn't lose out in the BT or sound cause Jesus man I was surprised by how loud these were and the Pioneer unit
just makes it so much better.


why does your engine bay look so bad/dirty? where did the covers and stuff go. Just aethsteics but I like the stock engine bay ^ like he has.

Find that wire, and remove it, and get it wired properly.
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by drizzoh View Post
The ground cable off the negative terminal is supposed to be connected to the body... And it is in those photos. I don't think that wire is anything you need to worry about realistically. If it was connected to the negative terminal then it's not OEM and it's just an additional ground that was (badly) added by the previous owner. Toyota wouldn't put electrical tape like that on a vital component like a ground wire. The previous owner probably grounded the throttle body or something like that. You have any car friends you could call locally to help you take a look at this? I don't want you to end up frying something that could have been avoided. Sounds to me like the battery could have just died and the ground wire is just a coincidence in this scenario.

EDIT:
This is how my bay looks as of this morning.. and there's no ground wire that you speak of. Definitely added by the previous owner (and I swapped my battery out friday).

Sadly I dont I called the guy who sold me the car but he hasnt had time to come check out the car(or is ducking the problem) but he told me the car needed a 2nd ground but didn't explain the reason why just saying thats what his mechanic says. I even replaced the battery and nothing dude doesn't attempt to crank or anything but the battery I replaced it with wasn't new so maybe that could be it? even pressing the lock on my keys does nothing and the car beeps when you close the door making the doors arent lock noise. and putting that ground cable on the battery terminal allowed the car to start and it would cut off if it was taken off so seems like it is integral to it but I don't know why
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by FreedomPenguin View Post
why does your engine bay look so bad/dirty? where did the covers and stuff go. Just aethsteics but I like the stock engine bay ^ like he has.

Find that wire, and remove it, and get it wired properly.
I got the car like that(its a rebuilt) I been wanting to get the engine bay clean but I dont know where they do that around where I live honestly.

and I have the wire how would I go about getting it wired properly should I just bring it into a shop or get a crimp and a head from autozone and do it that way?
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:31 PM
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A shop is probably a good idea, so they can figure out what is going on. The only kind of secondary ground I can think of that would prevent it from starting would be some kind of aftermarket immobilizer, but that's a terrible way to hook it up if that's the case.

Any car wash that does detailing should be able to steam the engine bay for you.
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Old 07-08-2018, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by drizzoh View Post
A shop is probably a good idea, so they can figure out what is going on. The only kind of secondary ground I can think of that would prevent it from starting would be some kind of aftermarket immobilizer, but that's a terrible way to hook it up if that's the case.

Any car wash that does detailing should be able to steam the engine bay for you.
Thank you for the help dude the problem is fixed! The guy who I bought the car from came and crimped the wire and added a 2G head to it and we had to jump the car cause tghe battery died during trhe time it was dead and it fired right up perfectly. After charging the battery the car is good to go and back on the road I'm so happy cause I missed its sound alot. I got to bring it to the shop still though cause its idling low at like 650RPM and shoots up to 850-900 when i turn on the A/c does it sound like I have to clean my injectors and TB?
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Old 07-09-2018, 03:48 PM
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That doesn't sound too bad just a little low. The idle is supposed to increase a bit when the ac is kicked on to make up for the increased load on the motor.

It's not usually a bad idea to clean the injectors and tb, but not sure that would affect your idle much, just your throttle response and power. It can't hurt to run a bottle of Lucas thru your gas tank, scrub your tb (it's a pain to reach) and clean your air filter, but a low idle is usually something else like a vacuum leak or something with the iac valve or a sensor. Haven't heard of many guys having idle issues on the tC, I know mine dips when idling and the radiator fans kick on with the ac on.. but other than that, not sure what would be up.

As a first step since you just disconnected the battery, disconnect it again for ~30 seconds and then let the car idle for ~10 minutes to see if it smooths anything out (Toyota's always die on the first startup after a battery disconnect).
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by drizzoh View Post
That doesn't sound too bad just a little low. The idle is supposed to increase a bit when the ac is kicked on to make up for the increased load on the motor.

It's not usually a bad idea to clean the injectors and tb, but not sure that would affect your idle much, just your throttle response and power. It can't hurt to run a bottle of Lucas thru your gas tank, scrub your tb (it's a pain to reach) and clean your air filter, but a low idle is usually something else like a vacuum leak or something with the iac valve or a sensor. Haven't heard of many guys having idle issues on the tC, I know mine dips when idling and the radiator fans kick on with the ac on.. but other than that, not sure what would be up.

As a first step since you just disconnected the battery, disconnect it again for ~30 seconds and then let the car idle for ~10 minutes to see if it smooths anything out (Toyota's always die on the first startup after a battery disconnect).
Alright I was just worried that it was really low and damn a possible vac leak how would I know if it was one of those 3 causes? I have no codes other then the O2 sensor code from my headers. and alright i"m going to try all of that and see if it works but I have an aftermarket cold air intake how would I clean that?

And the battery did finally die on me thankfully I was at work an just bought a good Autocraft Gold battery it's a bit overkill for the car but will def make sure it works good and I also decided to change the battery post and grounding that in a different location which also worked pretty well now battery wise my car is running perfectly!

edit- I take that back noticed my fog lights werent on and every time i put them on I hear a loud click and nothing guessed something died their .

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Old 07-12-2018, 06:20 PM
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For vacuum leaks have the car on and idling and spray some carb cleaner on all the ends of any vacuum hoses that you can find. if the pitch of the idle changes then you've found your leak. If nothing changes then you likely don't have any vac leaks which is better.

For cleaning your intake filter, I'd look up which brand you have an check their instructions. For Dryflow's I normally just remove them from the car, bang them on the ground a few times to get all the easy to remove dust off, Try to bang the rubber part down as to not bend the mesh.
Then spray it down with a hose from the inside -> out and then let it dry 24 hours or so.

Not sure what's up with your fog light switch. You're on your own for that one.

CEL is normal for a catless header - Vibrant makes an O2 extender that is supposed to help you not have a CEL from it (it goes on the secondary O2 sensor on the midpipe). They're hit or miss, but cheap enough it's worth trying.

Sounds kinda like the previous owner was in a hurry to unload the car has he knew it had some issues, still wouldn't hurt to have it checked out by a mechanic so you know what you're in for.

Last edited by MR_LUV; 07-13-2018 at 07:57 AM.
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