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2011 tC Lowering spring install

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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:05 PM
  #21  
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Dealer said today my bearings are making noise when I turn the wheel because my Springs aren't "clocked" (seated) properly. I'm pretty sure everything went back the way it started, but I'm also aware I can make mistakes.

I lifted up the car and everything appears right, but I didn't pull off the springs. Any suggestions on how I can verify the springs are seated properly?

Thanks
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #22  
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Here ar the instructions...

http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PTR11-21100inst.pdf
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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^^^Thanks, but I'm trying to figure out the original alignment and the directions don't provide a baseline. Looking at the video, blue dots on the support sub-assembly should be to the rear and mine are to the right. If someone can take a look and verify it, I'd appreciate it.

Grr... I hate when I make mistakes.

Thanks
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 08:40 PM
  #24  
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The only reason why I've posted the instructions, is that they are very particular on the clocking of the springs...
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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^^^Yes, they are particular about the clocking, but the instructions aren't very clear (unless I'm completely missing something). I rotated the sub assembly so it looks the same as what I believe the original was. Everything else seems to be seated properly. Lower and upper ends of the springs fit snugly into the pockets. Am I missing something?

Thanks
Old Feb 21, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MightyP
Dealer said today my bearings are making noise when I turn the wheel because my Springs aren't "clocked" (seated) properly. I'm pretty sure everything went back the way it started, but I'm also aware I can make mistakes.

I lifted up the car and everything appears right, but I didn't pull off the springs. Any suggestions on how I can verify the springs are seated properly?

Thanks
Ouch! Get ready for a bigger bill than you expected.

We had the same issue with mine right off the bat and I can say that "clocking" is very important. The front bearing has a lot of load on it and if the springs are not installed properly, they can bind and cause premature failure which from the sounds of things has happened to you.

Fingers crossed for you!
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 12:39 AM
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^^^ Thanks, but do you know how I can verify the "clocking"? Other than looking at Papa Bear's video and making the blue dot match (very scientific, I know), I don't know how to check things. Noise is minor and intermittent and hopefully I changed things before anything broke, but I'm shooting in the dark...
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 01:05 AM
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Does it squeak or click when you turn to the left or right?

I'll have to ask the guys at work what they did during the install, but I know it wasn't anything major.
Old Feb 22, 2011 | 03:11 AM
  #29  
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It's not a click. It's more of a groan. Not constant and mostly when the car is first warming up. It's reasonable to say I clocked it wrong, but the ONLY thing I can see to change is the sub assembly. Everything else either only fits one way or isn't directional.

Below is the picture of top of the strut tower. The picture is of the sub assembly in the position the dealer said is wrong. If you think of the blue dot as in the 7 o'clock position in the picture, it now is in the 10-11 o'clock position.

Old Feb 22, 2011 | 05:45 AM
  #30  
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Hey MightyP, pm me your number. I'll send you some pics of my assembly on both sides of the assembly and help you figure this out
Old May 28, 2011 | 03:04 AM
  #31  
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Bumping this one back up. I am going to need it soon, sure I am not the only one.
Old May 28, 2011 | 07:02 AM
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and i will also say, clocking is VERY important. i have 1 month old strut assemblies from japan on my tc because i wasnt paying close enough attention
Old May 29, 2011 | 07:19 AM
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Wellesly posted a timesaving trick for installing the front springs in another thread a while back. Something along the lines of leaving the strut's top 3 mount bolts alone and just letting the weight of the suspension extend the strut enough to remove the spring's preload. Then unbolt the center nut on the top. This seems to be a good idea as it would prevent the top part of the strut from being reinstalled wrong.
I will probably be doing this install myself, the idea of not having to drop the entire strut sounds nice. Any advice you guys have will be appreciated. BTW very nice job on the vid PapaBear. I just don't have a reliable second set of hands right now. I am not taking the chance of an autoshop installing them and me getting stuck with the bill for improperly clocked springs.
Old Mar 11, 2012 | 01:39 AM
  #34  
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Just put some s-techs in my ride today, watched the video and put them in in about 2.5 hrs. thanks for posting it up.
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 01:42 AM
  #35  
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I dont know if this is a dumb question or not but i cant find anything about it.
Im running 18x9.5 +38 with 245/40/18. ill be starting my stech install tomorrow but now im a bit worried about the wheels rubbing. Anyone know if they will rub?
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 01:46 AM
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No problems. We have folks on 18x9.5 +35 on s techs with no issues.
Old Apr 4, 2012 | 01:48 AM
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Thumbs up

Thanks man
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 11:50 AM
  #38  
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Hey @MightyP

I think I am having the same issue you are. How were you able to fix it? I only hear the noise from one side everything else seems fine. The ride quality seems fine I just hear a little noise sometimes in the beginning when turning.

Thanks!
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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MightyP had to replace the upper strut bearing.
@ FLO WHITE; Most of the guys on 18x9.5 +35 offset wheels run stretched tires. Your 245/40's will rub slightly, but not enough to show anywhere. Mine rub on the occasional bumpy turns.

Last edited by Blackedout011TC; Jun 11, 2012 at 01:07 PM.
Old Jun 12, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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Ahh I see, anyone know where I can get one of those. I talked to the dealership thinking they MIGHT sell parts, nope!

I want to have one on hand in case I need to replace it. Mine appears to be popping up a little if I look under the hood.

Thanks again!



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